Shoulda had a Honda

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mindymogul

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So in the increasingly crappy pile of crapshoot crap that's been slowly building it's crappy way to the crappy ceiling of my crappy shed I pulled out a not-so-crappy 'Cumsee from the engine sludge that's made it's way to the crappy unfinished floor. (Hot Rod Tech Tip: Old engine sludge works GREAT as a wood sealer). Problem is that this particular one was forged from nightmares and crappy Michigan QC standards, so the charging coil don't work (replacement is $50-$80 so blow me) and the throttle linkage is made for manual use only. The model is a OSHK130 13HP OHV in which I can't find ANY info online for mods or even just basic tech tips to this this thing throttle cable compatible. Anyone who's dealt with these engines I'll consider you a god. The least fabrication the better because the governor is already temperamental (1/16" rod adjustment threw it into full schitzo mode) and I really, really, REALLY don't want to go with the original idea and you the gov arm as the attach point for the cable (Even though it'd be the easiest)
 

itsid

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Hi MIndy.. long time no see..

I get the slight impression that you somehow feel unhappy about the shed in general and the engine you pulled out of it in particular ..
IDK why tbh... just a "between the lines" thing I guess :D

Anywhoo.. OSHK130 you say.. hang on
can't be OHSK130 can it? if it can
see below

page 26 is governor adjustment
page 28ff speed control, remote throttle linkages etc.

'sid
 

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mindymogul

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Hi MIndy.. long time no see..

Anywhoo.. OSHK130 you say.. hang on
can't be OHSK130 can it? if it can
see below

'sid

Insomnia, Dyslexia... alcohol overenthusiasm... take your pick. I tried manualslib and a couple other places but these engines aren't every sought after apparently. Probably because they weren't exactly in the Mod The Ever Living Crap Out Of This BLEEP market so no one really cared. Kinda like the Ford Triton 5.4L. GREAT engine, but ONLY if you're a Ford Dealer Garage. (Or you have a lot of brain lube in you)
 

itsid

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pure luck...
I searched for an OHH engine manual once and that thing popped up (source is in the manual ;))
it just so happens it covers the OHHSK as well as the OHSK series as well

the snow king series (everything SK in the back) in general isn't exactly too popular outside
the wintermonths is it ;)
Maybe that's why you couldn't find it as easily.
but it should share most internals with the OH (or OHH for that matter) series.
so if OHSK is yours an OH130 modification might be what you are looking for ;)

'sid
 

karl

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Problem is that this particular one was forged from nightmares and crappy Michigan QC standards, so the charging coil don't work (replacement is $50-$80 so blow me) and the throttle linkage is made for manual use only. The model is a OSHK130 13HP OHV in which I can't find ANY info online for mods or even just basic tech tips to this this thing throttle cable compatible. Anyone who's dealt with these engines I'll consider you a god.

The charge coil should be easy to find, what type do you have?

-1 Amp (18 Watt), P/N 611111, Readily available and probably most common. It has only two coils and takes up 120 degees if the flywheel (a third of the pie!)
-3 Amp (~36 Watt @12V), P/N 611095 or P/N 611113 or P/N 611116
-3 Amp D.C., 5 Amp A.C. ( ), P/N 611104. This is for a system that uses an A.C. light,
but has a battery that needs to be charged.
-7 Amp (~84 Watt @ 12V), P/N 611097 or P/N 611290

The smaller coils have less magnets in the flywheel, so keep that in mind if you want to upgrade.

But the later HM80-100 series , LH318-358SA, and OH90-130 , plus all the snow king versions should all use the same coils and flywheels, so the junkyards are ripe for the picking ,I would never pay for a tecumseh coil lol

As far as the throttle , just use the factory plate with the cable hookup. Or replace with any other contol plate from the motors I listed above. I can take a pic of how I did my hm100 throttle when I get home.

Too bad its not an 11hp, the ARC #6286 billet rod will fit 9-11hp OH motors and lh***sa, the 12 and 13 use a bigger rod.

I would reccomend drilling an oil passage into the factory rod , like briggs and honda does, as the factory rods only oil on the side of the rod, and overspeeding or poor oil will cause it to lock up or toss the rod

Carefully deburr the hole, clean up the casting flash/surface, good oil, send.

Also, if you have 120v starter, you can bolt on a 12v starter from the VM series engines, used on small cheap older riders, also commonly found in the same junkyard as the charge coil ya need , lol
 

JTSpeedDemon

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All I can think about is that engine sludge wood sealer tip......:roflol:

I'm glad *ahem* experienced members are finding their way back into the addiction!

I say the title should be changed to "Shoulda had a Briggs"! :D:D:D (see signature)

BTW - Is it just me or have my recent posts started to have a little bit of a Poboy flavor?? I guess I need to quit reading so many locked threads....:lolgoku:
 

mindymogul

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The one I have has the 18amp AC and Charge coil. Hence the price (Or thats what the manual mentioned). I managed to take a junk predator and rip the carb from that and the thing runs even better now. I ran the cable off the governor arm which kinda acts as a janky bypass but I get higher revs ( Even though it hates it) and a LOT better throttle response. Thought a 212 carb would bottle neck it but it I've been wrong before. Now I gotta find a way to get the exhaust to cooperate because if it doesn't have back pressure it dont run worth a ****.
 

Budget GoKart

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Im kinda thinkin about trying to get jhoppe's tejunkseh from his yerf dog for my manco 405 an engine noone would EVER willingly put on something (exept kart fab)
 

karl

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I ran the cable off the governor arm which kinda acts as a janky bypass but I get higher revs ( Even though it hates it) and a LOT better throttle response. Thought a 212 carb would bottle neck it but it I've been wrong before.

This is my throttle plate, if you snip your handle off and get some clamps, it can work, lil difficult.

Or if your into changing carbs, just rip the governer out, and hey, the heads seem like they flow very well, throw a 28 or 30mm slide carb on it , direct manifold, bump the compression up, then ill boogie. :cornut:

I want to do a hipo OH build, but all my blocks have worn cyl bores, I stole the connecting rod out a worn out ohsk90 and put it in the blue flatty hm80, that is ball bearing crank, good cast iron bore, but had a torn up rod, refurbed the crank.

Anyway, is your engine blue by chance?
 

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mindymogul

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This is the POS I'm dealing with. Old rig broke so had to salvage off a HM100. Now I know that the gooseneck BLEEPery would really jack up the flow and atomization for intake but since I don't want to cut into the original shroud, let alone deal with snapped bolts, would popping on a 20mm GY6 carb even be remotely worth the $20 or just roll with what I have? I'm dealing with about 4" of clearance around the top, sides, and back of the engine so there's literally no wiggle room. It's also 73" from the linkage to the pedal. The other kart this engine was on I drilled a hole into the throttle lever, put a barrel nut with a 10lb spring on it, and ran it that way. That worked great until the linkage snapped. I mean I know how all this would turn out but I'd rather the voices that aren't in my head to throw an extra opinion out there.
 

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karl

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mindymogul

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Decided to go with this... seems to be a common favorite on here.

https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-K...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Hardest part now is gonna be running the throttle cable to the pedal since I have to rig up a junction block. It'll look like a crackehead put out a dumpster fire with it's face but if it works it works. I think I should be safe wallering out the mounting holes to fit to the stock gooseneck. Engine is 45mm and these are 47mm.
 
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