Sequoia Electrathon Racer
- Thread starter Functional Artist
- Start date
Denny
Canned Monster
Getting kinda sloppy with those tolerances there big guy. We’ll let it pass this time, but from here on out let’s keep it tight.
ezcome-ezgo
G'me sumthin to write on
Electron microscope view of the surface:
Master Hack
Well-known member
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Master Hack
Well-known member
Mo hubs 2day!
Master Hack
Well-known member
Get some nice bolts for that finishing touch....
No, get yer own dam bolts!
No, get yer own dam bolts!
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Master Hack
Well-known member
An advanced feature of the rear hub is the patented "key keeper". The design was invented cuz many of our customers have demanded it. It makes the hub idiot proof. And believe me the idiots here at the mountain top need all the help they can get. However nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool. The skunk works engineering department incorperated this design in your drawings for no extra charge! (not to say you need it, but an opportunity to share this advanced design)
As you see in the pic below the "round key" slot is open on both ends. In the event of a dumba$$ mistake ERRR AHHH, I mean a pit crew member oversight, the key could "potentially" come out and be lost. It would require the perfect storm of dumba$$ery to make that happen, but the potential does exist.
The new "key Keeper" design Locks the key in place. Even in the event the dumba$$ does not tighten the set screw properly the key cannot escape!
This design has been a standard here at Scrap Yard Engineers for years. Cuz we be the ones making the dumba$$ mistakes!
As you see in the pic below the "round key" slot is open on both ends. In the event of a dumba$$ mistake ERRR AHHH, I mean a pit crew member oversight, the key could "potentially" come out and be lost. It would require the perfect storm of dumba$$ery to make that happen, but the potential does exist.
The new "key Keeper" design Locks the key in place. Even in the event the dumba$$ does not tighten the set screw properly the key cannot escape!
This design has been a standard here at Scrap Yard Engineers for years. Cuz we be the ones making the dumba$$ mistakes!
Attachments
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400A5785-4DA7-4839-B19A-C5A10AB23674_1_105_c copy.jpg
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Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,Get some nice bolts for that finishing touch....
No, get yer own dam bolts!
View attachment 146717View attachment 146718 View attachment 146719
Lookin' Good!
I got some 1/4" Button Head bolts
...would you recommend 1/2" or 5/8" or 3/4"?
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Been workin' on swing arm parts
Made up a 10" spacer (ta space 'em apart)
Marked the center of the (2) pieces
Trimmed the ends off
...clamped 'em together (with spacer)
...& then, welded 'em together
Made up a 10" spacer (ta space 'em apart)
Marked the center of the (2) pieces
Trimmed the ends off
...clamped 'em together (with spacer)
...& then, welded 'em together
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Aligned the (2) pieces (reversed 'em) for markin' & trimmin'
Dry fit (after some trimmin' & cleanin')
Double checkin' squareness
Triple checkin' squareness (looks pretty good ta me)
Dry fit (after some trimmin' & cleanin')
Double checkin' squareness
Triple checkin' squareness (looks pretty good ta me)
Master Hack
Well-known member
5/8 should do it. The doughnut is 1" + .160(Approx) each for the rotor and sprocket = 1.320/2= .660
You have enough bolts for the next 10 projects!
Master Hack
Well-known member
Well, I think I'm done with this little project.
Here's is an interesting tidbit for your memory banks.
We all know about welding can cause things to warp, pull and move in ways not wanted.
In this case I tried an experiment ( I like experimenting with other people's stuff.) The wheel flange was heated and pressed on the hub. At that point I checked runout and saw .018 "wobble" with some strategic welding and cooling I was able to reduce that to .005. Much easier way of trueing things up.
I think I'm 'bout ready to send this stuff back.
Here's is an interesting tidbit for your memory banks.
We all know about welding can cause things to warp, pull and move in ways not wanted.
In this case I tried an experiment ( I like experimenting with other people's stuff.) The wheel flange was heated and pressed on the hub. At that point I checked runout and saw .018 "wobble" with some strategic welding and cooling I was able to reduce that to .005. Much easier way of trueing things up.
I think I'm 'bout ready to send this stuff back.
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
Short, sweet & right to the point, purty clever!
...& I can't wait ta get 'em
I got the swing arm "tac" welded together
Double checked that the upper "part" was "true"
Checked "fitment" with "mock" rear hub
Another view
* the spacer on the end of the spindle was so I didn't have to "run" the retaining nut all of the way down the threads just for a "fitment" test
Functional Artist
Well-known member
All ready to get the bushing holder welded on 
Made sure everything was purty square
...& got 'er all welded up
Mounted the hub & wheel
...& WTF?
Um..."Houston we have a problem" (an old space reference-kiddos look it up)
The wheel isn't centered in the swing arm (seems ta be off by ~1")
Made sure everything was purty square
...& got 'er all welded up
Mounted the hub & wheel
...& WTF?
Um..."Houston we have a problem" (an old space reference-kiddos look it up)
The wheel isn't centered in the swing arm (seems ta be off by ~1")
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Well...Ima gonna have ta do some thinkin;
...so, we'll get back ta that
Remember way back when I removed the top (post #150)
Next, I tried a couple of roll hoops
But, wasn't impressed/didn't like 'em
...so, lets try somethin' different
I gots an idea from watchin' some of them Aerodynamic videos
Maybe somethin' like this
(styled after an F-1 Halo) 
...so, we'll get back ta that
Remember way back when I removed the top (post #150)
Next, I tried a couple of roll hoops
But, wasn't impressed/didn't like 'em
...so, lets try somethin' different
I gots an idea from watchin' some of them Aerodynamic videos
Maybe somethin' like this
(styled after an F-1 Halo)
Master Hack
Well-known member
I like that way mo bedder!
Master Hack
Well-known member
is that a bushing? looks like an easy fix....
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey T,
Nope, that is just a "spacer" that I used, to not have ta "run" the nut all of the way down, just for a quick test fitting
We can't just adjust the hub over a whole 1"
...'cause where the caliper will be mounted, dictates where the rotor need ta be
My right brain tried to say "It'll be fine"
...but, my left brain was like O-He** NO
...& "get your azz back out there & fix it"
So, I had ta "bite the bullet" & attempt a modification
OMG this SUCKS!
...such a purty weld
...& I have ta ruin it
So, I used a cut off wheel, in the Dremel to try some micro-surgery
...as to try-n-not remove much material from the ends of the tube
...& also, ta try-n-not gouge &/or scare up the bushing holder too much
Also, removed the offending 1"
...from the center of the upright section
Clamped 'er together
...& re-squared 'er
...& then, re welder 'er up (again)
* Notice we have ta use a 9" "spacer" now
Also, double checked the spindle squareness, again
...& then, trimmed the bushing holder down (~5/8" extending out each end)
Master Hack
Well-known member
Don't forget the the doughnut is "adjustable"!
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Gettin' back to the roll over protection (Halo)
I tried a few helmet clearance tests (as per this video)
It seemed to pass this test OK
...but, not this one
Ta add a bit more clearance I raised the front ~2"
...& installed a bit taller roll hoop
I tried a few helmet clearance tests (as per this video)
...but, not this one
Ta add a bit more clearance I raised the front ~2"
...& installed a bit taller roll hoop