Sequoia Electrathon Racer

[Master Hack]

Ok, we be on different frequencies here....

lt's your choice so ya don't need to listen to my over complicated BS, but l'll lay it on ya anyway.

Problem one. Good quality bearings are not going to have snap rings.

problem two. .065 wall tubing has the same lD as the 99502 OD

If yer ok with $2 bearings, then no problem

lf yer thinkin good bearings ( couple of options)
Then no snap ring means ya gotta do something to keep the bearing from going all the way through the tube.

solution 1
Put a snap ring inside the tube at the depth of the bearing.
With .065 tube a .030 snap ring groove doesn't leave enough to make me feel all warm and fuzzy.

soultion 2
.120 wall tube will take a groove easily and it would leave a shoulder to back up the snap ring.
Bullet proof.

soultion 3
Put a sleeve inside the .065 to accomplish the above.
Too much work.

problem 4a
Bearings with SR will be easily preloaded detracting from performance.

solution
.120 tubing with SR and a sleeve over the spindle is both bullet and idiot proof.

l always make things too complicated.
I'm trying to get on the same frequency as you, and l'm trying to get you pointed down the road that leads to the good (low friction) bearings.
All this may be something ya don't care about, and l have no idea what yer budget is for wheels/bearings etc.
As you probably read elsewhere the rear bearings in Franken buggy have a DLR
of 26k pounds per side.
so if ya want to tell me to shut up cuz l'm nuts, l can respect that!

That .188 wall tubing is even better!
It can be bored to accept a good bearing and no snap ring required.

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey T,

if ya want to tell me to shut up cuz l'm nuts, l can respect that!

Um...heck no. You probably forgot more about this bearing stuff, than most of us will ever know
...& I appreciate ya taking the time to share your knowledge, with us

Problem one. Good quality bearings are not going to have snap rings.

problem two. .065 wall tubing has the same lD as the 99502 OD

I'm not stuck on using bearings with snap rings
...using 99502 bearings
...or the .065 tube

lf yer thinkin good bearings ( couple of options)
Then no snap ring means ya gotta do something to keep the bearing from going all the way through the tube.

Yup, IMO for a race car good quality, low friction bearings can be that unseen minor advantage
...that could/possibly make a huge difference, in the end

I like solution 2

soultion 2
.120 wall tube will take a groove easily and it would leave a shoulder to back up the snap ring.
Bullet proof.

...& this one even better
That .188 wall tubing is even better!
It can be bored to accept a good bearing and no snap ring required.

So, now (hopefully) were getting closer, to being on the same page

Dual flange hubs
...made with some .188 steel tube (with machined bearing seats, on each end)
...with a couple of good bearings (no SR) for a 5/8" spindle
...& also, with (2) pieces of ~3/16" flange material welded on (1 side for the rotor & the other side for the wheel)

* Plus, a couple of "bonuses" of this solution, should be that the thicker hub material will make for stronger/more HD hubs
...& also, having the tube & flange material being close, to the same thickness, should make for a better/stronger welded junction (with less warpage) too

 

[Functional Artist]

It's been in the 40's & 50's around here
...so, during all of this bearing & hub discussion, I've still been workin' on the chassis

Profile

Front angle view

Rear angle view

 

[Functional Artist]

To help double check component locations & fitment, I started adding more "props"
Seat
Side Impact Bars
Pedal

Battery Box
...a CAD "mock up" to help show it's location/relationship to the pedal(s)
...& to double check, that there is adequate clearance, to actuate them pedals

Pedal(s)
...will be (~36") from the bottom/rear of the seat

I also, mocked up a "prop" steering wheel, steering shaft, tie rods & a potential spindle location

This makes it easier to evaluate each pieces location, in relationship to everything else
...& also, to double check the clearance, of these components too

Also, with a wheel

Distance, from the seat back, to the "steering wheel" (~24")

Steering shaft height, in relationship to the seat (~12")

Steering shaft mounting bracket height (from the floorboard up) which checks out at (~15")

 

[Master Hack]

That steering wheel is gonna hurt!

 

[Denny]

That steering wheel is gonna hurt!

He won’t feel a thing after it cuts his fingers off.
Why don’t you try front steer tie rods on this one?

 

[Master Hack]

I hope ya don't have any bump steer!

 

[Master Hack]

I have been patiently waiting for you to ask the right question so I could throw in my bearing funny. But, since no one here is cooperating i"ll have to do it without yer help.

I've built/fixed/rebuilt/modified a lot of bearings. To do that requires we keep a large stock of balls. All sizes and different materials.
So as you can see:

"It takes a lot of balls to build bearings" And because of that:

"I have more balls than anyone in Oregon"

Thank you!

( over one million B4 I had a clearance sale)

Remind me not to ask yer help again!

 

[Denny]

I have been patiently waiting for you to ask the right question so I could throw in my bearing funny. But, since no one here is cooperating i"ll have to do it without yer help.

I've built/fixed/rebuilt/modified a lot of bearings. To do that requires we keep a large stock of balls. All sizes and different materials.
So as you can see:

"It takes a lot of balls to build bearings" And because of that:

"I have more balls than anyone in Oregon"

Thank you!

( over one million B4 I had a clearance sale)

Remind me not to ask yer help again!

I use roller bearings, sorry dude. Have fun playing with your balls though.

 

[Master Hack]

Roller bearings are useless, I can't get paid for playing with my balls if i used those.

 

[Denny]

Where’s Terry? Oh, he’s off playing with his balls again.

 

[Functional Artist]

Why don’t you try front steer tie rods on this one?

Hey Denny,
Maybe, I'm still "mocking stuff up"

I have been patiently waiting for you to ask the right question so I could throw in my bearing funny. But, since no one here is cooperating i"ll have to do it without yer help.

Hey T,
Wow! "You gotta a lot of balls"

 

[Master Hack]

Wow! "You gotta a lot of balls"

Thats what I been sayn!

 

[Functional Artist]

I cut some "mock" hub flange pieces, out of one of the 'ol mini-Jeep grille press(es)

Added some "pilot holes"
...& hole saw(ed) some 1 1/2" holes (in the center)
...& inserted a piece of the 1 1/2" tube

Jualla...(1) "rough" 1/2 wood x 1/2 steel (hybrid) dual flange "mock" hub
...mainly for fitment purposes

...& with bearing(s)

 

[Master Hack]

Thats not the tube is it? I can see the ID is wrong...

 

[Functional Artist]

Thats not the tube is it? I can see the ID is wrong...

Hey T,
It's a piece of the thin wall stuff (16 Gauge Carbon Steel Round Tube 1-1/2" OD x .065" wall x 1.5" 1.37 ID)
...that we were talking about, before moving on & started talking about using the 1 5/8" OD .188 wall tube

 

[Master Hack]

Ok, yer scaring me. But thats what l thought.

 

[Functional Artist]

I slid the "mock" hub w/bearings, on the spindle

IIRC the bolt holes for the 8" rotors are 80mm

So, I set a Compass to 40mm (1/2 of 80mm)

...& used the center of the spindle shaft (as a guide) to draw an 80mm circle, on the (brake rotor) hub flange

 

[Functional Artist]

The bolt pattern for these wheels is 4" x 4"

So, I used the same method, as before (divide 4" in half)
...& drew a 4" circle
...then, drilled (4) 1/2" holes

Here is the "mock" hub w/rotor installed, on the rotor flange
...& (2) 1/2" bolts, for the wheel

Here is a look, at the back side of the "mock" hub, mounted on the spindle

Profile

* Pay no attention to the thickness of the flanges
...from the out side of (1) flange, to outside of the other flange, is the most important data

 

[Functional Artist]

Now, we can use the "mock" hub w/Rotor to start working on a Caliper bracket

Used some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design)
...& did some measurin' markin' & cuttin'/

Maybe somethin' about like this

Added a Caliper

To check fitment & clearance

I'm thinkin' that I might be able to bend/add a "tab" (kinda like this)

Then, we could use the "tab"
...to bolt the Caliper bracket, to the arm, on the spindle

Which should "act" as a "stop"
...so, the bracket can't "travel" around the spindle
...especially when braking