Purchased a kart help me identify it

[WillMatrix]

Karttekk's link above (post #33) is for presumably a favorite for him, I prefer "PB Blast" myself even with the strong smell, everybody's got their own tried and true or at least preferred penetrant product. That's where you are right now, application of penetrant with soak time and repeats as needed. Overnight soaks, smacking it hard after that then repeating application and more soak time. 10 minutes here, half hour there, overnight if it's getting late, smacking it after every soak.
Know this, WD-40 is not a penetrant, it's a lubricant and rust inhibitor. Chain lube is just that, a lube(ricant), not a penetrant. Etc., etc.
No matter how the wheel comes off, it should be full of penetrant already when it does, that's the part of the job that will contribute the most results.
About those pieces of keystock that are frozen into the keyways.............I personally have had basically foolproof success in my career with them on stuck blower wheels, bearings, you name it that locks on with a keyway. I've always used a (sharp pointed) scratch awl as a punch to slide keystocks down the keyways, maybe followed by a welding rod or another piece of smaller keystock, until removed, one less impediment to moving the stuck part. Awl point centered (so as not to mushroom corners of keystock) on the end of the keystock, tap it along the keyway with a common hammer. All this after application of much penetrant, of course. Wheels and bearings etc. can then be twisted back and forth on the shaft or axle to get them loose, that rotation of them on the shaft or axle is what usually freed them up for me.
If I had to whip out the oxy/acet torch it was to cut up the part or cut the axle off.

Ok given that I’m going to try everything you suggested, how successful do you think I can be with a angle grinder? I already order new tires and rims

 

[madprofessor]

You'll never be able to cut the hubs of those wheels off of the axle without damaging the axle. Besides, the juice wouldn't be worth the squeeze. If you give up on getting them off, cut off the axle close to the wheels. Maybe you can drive the axle stubs out of the wheels on the bench with your biggest BFH, and save them for another use.
Of course, with new tires and wheels coming, you don't have to cut anything. Get a new axle coming too, throw away the old setup intact.
MFG Supply will sell you a new 1" Flexpruf axle from 36"-44" for $45-$53. BMI Karts will same for $50-$56. Etc., etc..........
GoPowerSports does about the same on a standard steel axle, but I strongly advise against it. It only has a 2" long keyway on each end, no keyways for sprockets or brake discs. Best would be full length keyways by halves, staggered opposite each other. Previous mentions have a few short keyways each, listed in the description.

 

[Denny]

I got a full length keyed axle from GPS. Just don’t get a stepped axle. That is one reason I prefer separate hubs and wheels. A wire wheel is your best friend for cleaning up rusty stuff.

 

[madprofessor]

That's right, I should have mentioned it. Same limitation for axle length as a solid 1" with only a 2" keyway at each end. Solid 1" keyed only on ends or a 1" stepped down to 3/4" ends, either way you're stuck with an unchangeable axle length.
And either way you still need keyway along the axle for sprockets, etc.
EDIT: Oops! Misread the GPS axle section, those solid steel axles read as all having 2" threads on ends, step-downs in the picture, you choose overall length. Different spot says that they are actually fully keyed. Makes sense to me now.
EDIT: Oops again. This is obvious, but should have pointed it out anyway. The step-down axle ends mean you're stuck with that width for just 3/4" wheel hubs. As long as axle's fully keyed you can slide on 1" wheel hubs as far as you like, and cut off the extra part of axle. My current kart has that same setup, without cutting off excess, has 3/4" water pipe for bushings, and nuts on the ends.

 

[WillMatrix]

I ordered from BMI and just ordered the exact axel from the cart and ordered the snap rings as well. I can’t believer the price but I was happy with it. I think the axel alone was 30 and change

 

[madprofessor]

If I'm understanding correctly, you'll have all new wheels and tires, and a new axle. Great price for that axle too. Provided the new wheels have the hubs built in, sounds like all you're missing (if getting split rims and/or tube-type tires) is new innertubes (hopefully with L-shaped valve stems) and new axle bearings. Saying that to encourage new bearings.
Pictures look like it uses flange-mount axle bearings, that sure would be easy to change out. Once you do, I'd suggest slapping on some of the 2-piece double-split locking collars I described earlier, but you can do that anytime, they don't slide on from the ends. A collar up against the inside side of each bearing, and one on each side of the axle sprocket. Cheap in various quantities from ebay.
Please do something with that super-sketchy brake cable behind the seat before your kid goes rocketing off into the sunset.

 

[WillMatrix]

If I'm understanding correctly, you'll have all new wheels and tires, and a new axle. Great price for that axle too. Provided the new wheels have the hubs built in, sounds like all you're missing (if getting split rims and/or tube-type tires) is new innertubes (hopefully with L-shaped valve stems) and new axle bearings. Saying that to encourage new bearings.
Pictures look like it uses flange-mount axle bearings, that sure would be easy to change out. Once you do, I'd suggest slapping on some of the 2-piece double-split locking collars I described earlier, but you can do that anytime, they don't slide on from the ends. A collar up against the inside side of each bearing, and one on each side of the axle sprocket. Cheap in various quantities from ebay.
Please do something with that super-sketchy brake cable behind the seat before your kid goes rocketing off into the sunset.

What do you mean with the brake cable? I have to order a whole new brake system so I need recommendations and installing instructions anyway. The original card had brake bands. I ordered the 4 bolt wheel hubs with the one inch bore but did forget bearings and maybe it might be a good idea to get locking collars. Help me out here lol

 

[madprofessor]

Maybe I'm seeing something else, but the black line held on with the 5 green zipties looks like what would be the continuation of the brake rod after it transitions from a steel rod to a cable, necessary due to the movement of the swingarm. If that's what it is, the sharpness of the bends in it caused by the really tight zipties could cause the cable to hang up.
Existing brake band setup should be okay insofar as the brake drum (machined OD) is concerned if the drum will slide onto your new 1" shaft you've got coming. Hard to tell what you've got there. Regardless, you could use a new brake band for the right size drum, like 4" or 4.5" drum, have to get it right. Need a place to hang the band on (pin) and a place to end the brake cable to pull the band tight around the drum to stop, look at your current setup.
Looks like you have flush-mount flange bearings on that axle, as opposed to bearings "sandwiched" between 2 flangettes. Most kart parts dealers sell the flangettes, bearings, and the weld-on hangers for the flangettes. Uncertain if you can use them in your case. May need standard 1" ID flush-mount flange bearings, check all the kart parts dealers specifically for that. You'll need to know center-to-center measurement of the mounting bolt holes.

 

[WillMatrix]

Ok, one more question. The two front tires inflate but got flat after a day. What are the chances that the rim is usable and the tires were just trash? They are dry rotted pretty bad. Should I keep the rims and just order new tires or order both? And how can I find out what bearings I need for the rim because those guys were toast

 

[madprofessor]

Thanks for the 2 really easy questions...............Q#1: Find some kind of container big enough to hold and completely submerge a wheel/tire combo blown up to 25-30 psi under water, and fill 'er up. Push a wheel/tire under and find the place(s) where it's leaking. Are there tubes in those tires?.................
Q#2: The O.D. of your new axle is the I.D. of the new bearings you should be getting, wouldn't even try to use the old bearings. The way the bearings are mounted determines the type of bearings you need. It appears clear that they bolt onto the plates hanging down from the frame.
If they're the type that lays up flat against the plate, held on with bolts to that one side, they're flange bearings.
If they're the type with a framework of 2 frame halves (flangettes) that "sandwiches" both sides of the bearing, and bolt onto the plates with the bolts going through both frame halves (flangettes) then they're a common gokart flangette/bearing setup, available from all kart parts dealers.
You'll need to know the mounting bolt holes spacing to get bearings that fit without any drilling. If flangettes, whether they're 2-hole or 3-hole.

 

[WillMatrix]

Thanks for the 2 really easy questions...............Q#1: Find some kind of container big enough to hold and completely submerge a wheel/tire combo blown up to 25-30 psi under water, and fill 'er up. Push a wheel/tire under and find the place(s) where it's leaking. Are there tubes in those tires?.................
Q#2: The O.D. of your new axle is the I.D. of the new bearings you should be getting, wouldn't even try to use the old bearings. The way the bearings are mounted determines the type of bearings you need. It appears clear that they bolt onto the plates hanging down from the frame.
If they're the type that lays up flat against the plate, held on with bolts to that one side, they're flange bearings.
If they're the type with a framework of 2 frame halves (flangettes) that "sandwiches" both sides of the bearing, and bolt onto the plates with the bolts going through both frame halves (flangettes) then they're a common gokart flangette/bearing setup, available from all kart parts dealers.
You'll need to know the mounting bolt holes spacing to get bearings that fit without any drilling. If flangettes, whether they're 2-hole or 3-hole.

Maybe I should of been more clear. I’m talking about the front wheels. They have bearings inside the rim and that goes right onto the spindles

 

[WillMatrix]

Update!! Tires are trash. They are leaking from the sides and the bead. Can I still use the rim?

 

[madprofessor]

Oops! Well, at least I got the rear end info across, albeit just preemptively!
The spindles' axles are your bearing size and you might as well keep the bearings in the rims, because short of obvious wiggle on the axles you'll never know if they're damaged until you run them.
If rims aren't dinged over somewhere on the edges, or wrinkled from a bad bang-out job, they're probably perfectly fine. Even bad rust on the bead seat causing a leak can be sanded smooth again. Slap some rubber on the rims, leak-check it, then slap some rubber on the pavement.

 

[WillMatrix]

Oops! Well, at least I got the rear end info across, albeit just preemptively!
The spindles' axles are your bearing size and you might as well keep the bearings in the rims, because short of obvious wiggle on the axles you'll never know if they're damaged until you run them.
If rims aren't dinged over somewhere on the edges, or wrinkled from a bad bang-out job, they're probably perfectly fine. Even bad rust on the bead seat causing a leak can be sanded smooth again. Slap some rubber on the rims, leak-check it, then slap some rubber on the pavement.

Thanks a lot man. So there is a little chip on the rim (on the very edge of the rim) I’ll send you a pic. But no the bearings need to be changed one of the rims. The balls came out of it

 

[Denny]

I hate when my balls come out. Replace all the bearings. The rims can be cleaned up with sandpaper, wire wheel, wire brush, sandblaster, torch and scraper or whatever various chemicals.

 

[madprofessor]

I picked up my balls and put them in a bowl to play with later. My front hubs I ordered for my new 8" rims mysteriously came with 5/8" bearings preinstalled in them. I'd give them to you if you were here, because us OCD people want the strongest of everything. So my spindle axles are of course 3/4", largest they sell for just gokarts.
Can you weld? Got a welding machine? How about a oxy/acet torch? Any way you choose to do it, if the chip spot leaks beyond what a hammer can fix, I've personally brazed on extra metal and ground it smooth and leak-free on a bent rim. An OCD cheapskate.

 

[WillMatrix]

Yes I have a welder and just a propane torch. I wish I was closer to you because you do great work

 

[madprofessor]

A propane torch may or may not get steel hot enough to work it. That's why I paid $2-3 more (maybe$17) for a self-igniting MAPP GAS torch. Same disposable bottles as propane, but each MAPP costs a little more. That's okay, it heats metal way faster and way hotter than propane, so it's a wash.
If you can get a rim to glow red hot, you can braze some coat hanger (with the coating on it burnt off) onto it. Propane will only solder, but some people believe that solder built up then ground smooth is good enough. They're right, but only if it's done right.
Hopefully this is all a moot point. Hopefully the new tires will seal up just fine, and you can doughnut them until they pop.
Funny recall, the bald tires we all drove our cars on as teenagers we called Goodsheer Maypops.

 

[WillMatrix]

I have a question!
if I were to buy a 420cc predator and a 40 series torque converter, what will be the best gearing for top speed and then the best gearing for speed and medium torque?

I’m thinking bout installing A arms on the front and IRS.

 

[madprofessor]

Wow, that's a loaded question. Firstly, my consistent answer about ratio changes is to advise starting with a sprocket carrier hub for the rear axle with quick-change (6 little bolts) 2-piece $15 split sprockets. Once the hub is on the axle, you never have to slide anything off the axle and back on again for a sprocket change. Secondly, your split sprocket to begin with should be the largest diameter you believe you'd possibly want, so any change to a smaller diameter will require removing links for the chain, not splicing little pieces into it.