Purchased a kart help me identify it

WillMatrix

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So I bought this kart for a good price at least a good price to me. It’s a bit on the heavier side but it has shocks and everything and 3 wheels hold air and the other tire is leaking around the bead area (can that be fixed?)

the breaks are trash and I will replace those once I figure out what kart I have. Please help me identify this kart. By the way it cost me $150
 

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madprofessor

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Interesting rig, but have no idea what it is. Tell you what I see though, that would go a bit towards ID of it.............
3-piece bolt-together roll cage/rear rack setup.
Apparent replacement of motor platform with little to no adjustability of the motor for chain tensioning.
Built as a 2-seater, bench seat with sliders for seat adjustment. Wasn't enough, kid needed a block of wood popriveted(?) to brake pedal.
Can't really be too ancient, there's a safety warning label on the front that warns about not riding it after consuming drugs, and long hair getting caught in moving parts.
Left rear rim badly dinged, can likely pound it back with a hammer, but bead seat might be iffy.

You got your $150's worth in wheels, hubs, tires, and steering setup. The metal component is something you need to bend to your will, make it do what you need. Start with a welder, and make those weak bolt-together points into one solid piece, in a bad rollover your life might depend on it.
Next, put in some real seatbelts (harnesses), attached to real steel. I got my pair of color-matching (blue) 4-point harnesses from Walmart for $39 for the pair. Do like your safety sticker says and get DOT-approved motorcycle helmets.
Check out kart parts suppliers like BMI Karts, GoPowerSports, MFG Supply, etc. for things like a motor mounting plate w/slots, seats, non-slip pedals, sprockets and chains, throttle cables, brake parts, any goodies you can think of. You're already off to a good start.
 

WillMatrix

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The crazy part is, it’s the back right tire that won’t hold air. I might use a strap to see if that helps seat the bead until I buy a new tire. I’m going to put a predator 212 on it for my son till I get everything how I want it then upgrade to a 420
 

OPmini

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The crazy part is, it’s the back right tire that won’t hold air. I might use a strap to see if that helps seat the bead until I buy a new tire. I’m going to put a predator 212 on it for my son till I get everything how I want it then upgrade to a 420
420's all the way, they make so much power after you hotrod them
 

Denny

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Does it really matter who made it? Buggy manufacturers come and go faster than a fart in a fan factory any more. Looks like you got good bones to build from. Clean up the rim bead and paint it then try to get tire to bead up. Good luck.
 

Dingocat

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It's a Yerf Dog, seems like a decent kart, personally, I never owned one but have a friend that did and he liked it. Aparently people had issues with frames cracking on those, not too sure on that one though. Good idea to check it over (especially rear).

Nice find for 150 though. Rarely see them that cheap around here.
 

WillMatrix

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Wow
It's a Yerf Dog, seems like a decent kart, personally, I never owned one but have a friend that did and he liked it. Aparently people had issues with frames cracking on those, not too sure on that one though. Good idea to check it over (especially rear).

Nice find for 150 though. Rarely see them that cheap around here.
Thanks man!!! I just was asking who made it so I can get the original parts or upgrade them.
420's all the way, they make so much power after you hotrod them
Is it a hard task upgrading the 420?
 

WillMatrix

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Does it really matter who made it? Buggy manufacturers come and go faster than a fart in a fan factory any more. Looks like you got good bones to build from. Clean up the rim bead and paint it then try to get tire to bead up. Good luck.
How do I go about cleaning it up?
 

WillMatrix

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easy to hot rod, just need a handful of semi-special tools, all available at harbor freight for under $20. And of course the expensive upgrade parts
Cool! Once I get this thing rolling I’m going to try my hand at it. Might try with my 212 first to knock off the first try jitters
 

WillMatrix

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Can anybody give me advice on how to get a stuck wheel and tire off my axel?
 

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Dingocat

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Gotta heat it up hot, like red hot, and cool it down fast ie. Water. It'll break the rust holding it tohether apart and should make it easiee to get off.
 

WillMatrix

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Gotta heat it up hot, like red hot, and cool it down fast ie. Water. It'll break the rust holding it tohether apart and should make it easiee to get off.
Ok ok I’m down for that. What tool and equipment is needed to get it red hot?
 

madprofessor

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Before you flash-cool any red hot parts and make them possibly brittle, try unscrewing the setscrews (maybe 2 each) in those 2 locking collars that are on either side of that wheel. The LOCKING collar's job is to make sure what's up against it is LOCKED in place and won't move. I'll attach some pics showing how some of the 17 locking collars on my current kart are being used.
Mine are all black oxide DOUBLE-split collars, yours look like black oxide also, or just corroded. My collars have a pair of bolts that hold the 2 half-circle halves together onto the axles, no setscrews required.
What's sold as SPLIT locking collars are just hoops that are sliced through in one place. They have a single bolt to tighten them onto the axles. What's sold as just plain locking collars are just round hoops period, with1 or 2 (allen-head usually) setscrews in them you screw down right into the axle. Looks like that's what you have, plain hoops on both sides of the wheel.
For the future, I'd advise using only double-split collars, and use them liberally like I do. Cheap on ebay in quantities of 10, 4, 2, etc.. No setscrews marring little gouges into axles. The doubles just slap right on anywhere you like in a minute flat.
Single splits and of course plain collars have to slide on from the end of the axle. That means removing a wheel hub, a bearing, maybe a brake disc or sprocket, etc. to put it where you want it, then putting it all back on. Double-splits are the only way to go!
Note: Looks like you're going to find collar setscrews have been tightened down into that threaded end of the shaft, ruining the threads.
 

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WillMatrix

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It also has those snap rings. I would hate to have to take a angle grinder to the wheels although I’m going to need new wheels anyway
 

OPmini

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For the flywheel, heat with a blow torch, to about 600F, then use a prybar and take it off, after removing the nut with a breaker bar, NO IMPACT WRENCH!!!
torch: Propane Torch (harborfreight.com)
pry bar: 30 in. Alignment Pry Bar (harborfreight.com)
breaker bar: 1/2 in. Drive 25 in. Breaker Bar (harborfreight.com)
torque wrench (needed to put on new flywheel): 1/2 in. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench (harborfreight.com)
remember harbor freight is your friend for cheap, quality(sometimes) tools
 

WillMatrix

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For the flywheel, heat with a blow torch, to about 600F, then use a prybar and take it off, after removing the nut with a breaker bar, NO IMPACT WRENCH!!!
Where would I get a blow torch?? I’m in Alabama and I never had a need for a blow torch or gas tanks and things like that.
 

WillMatrix

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I put a link in my post, your local hazard fart Harbor Freight will have the tools
Lol I see what you did there. I already have the nut off. It’s the getting the rim off of the threaded axle that’s killing me
 
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