Purchased a kart help me identify it

[madprofessor]

Missed how this got to flywheel removals, but you never put a torch to a flywheel, there's a heat-sensitive main bearing right there!
EDIT: To drive the wheel off the axle AFTER removing or loosening everything holding it on, I'd suggest a heavy piece of some scrap angle iron and a BFH. So, 3/16" minimum thickness angle iron would work well, at least as big as the O.D. of the axle, and just a few inches long is all you'd need to make a great tool.
Lay the angle over the axle right up against the inside of the wheel (or the collar), and wrap a few turns of tape (I like electrical tape) around the angle/axle to keep the angle from jumping off.
Lay a heavy hammer (I have 3# and 4# mini-sledges) on the axle so you can sort of slide it along the axle, so you don't keep beating up the axle as you swing, and start swinging. Angle will make good contact in 2 lines with wheel (or collar). You can spin the angle around the axle evenly as you go if you just hold it on without using the tape.

 

[OPmini]

Missed how this got to flywheel removals, but you never put a torch to a flywheel, there's a heat-sensitive main bearing right there!

engines get hot, and if you heat the the nut the flywheel absorbs most of that 'extreme heat' and the bearing will be fine

 

[WillMatrix]

For the flywheel, heat with a blow torch, to about 600F, then use a prybar and take it off, after removing the nut with a breaker bar, NO IMPACT WRENCH!!!
torch: Propane Torch (harborfreight.com)
pry bar: 30 in. Alignment Pry Bar (harborfreight.com)
breaker bar: 1/2 in. Drive 25 in. Breaker Bar (harborfreight.com)
torque wrench (needed to put on new flywheel): 1/2 in. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench (harborfreight.com)
remember harbor freight is your friend for cheap, quality(sometimes) tools

But why would I heat my flywheel?

 

[WillMatrix]

I

engines get hot, and if you heat the the nut the flywheel absorbs most of that 'extreme heat' and the bearing will be fine

I just want to add that I’m not talking about a flywheel I’m talking about my axel. You kind of getting me worried there buddy

 

[madprofessor]

He's just thinking about a different job.

 

[WillMatrix]

He's just thinking about a different job.

So don’t use heat? Try angle iron and wack the mess out of it from the backside?

 

[OPmini]

Can anybody give me advice on how to get a stuck wheel and tire off my axel?

im an idiot lol i misread

sorry for the confusion, dont know how i misread that. its been a long day

must have misread it as:

Can anybody give me advice on how to get a stuck flywheel and tire off my axel?

 

[madprofessor]

Absolutely, heat is what you do after proving a "persuader" can't get it started moving. If it can't, then heat it up with a common handheld torch on a small (1 lb.) propane bottle, not that wand with the big rosebud head OP put a link to.
And it's the wheel you focus on heating, not the axle. Heat swells thing up.
Then proceed again with the scrap angle and BFH.

 

[WillMatrix]

im an idiot lol i misread

sorry for the confusion, dont know how i misread that. its been a long day

must have misread it as:

lol it’s all good. You kind of had me going too

 

[WillMatrix]

Absolutely, heat is what you do after proving a "persuader" can't get it started moving. If it can't, then heat it up with a common handheld torch on a small (1 lb.) propane bottle, not that wand with the big rosebud head OP put a link to.
And it's the wheel you focus on heating, not the axle. Heat swells thing up.
Then proceed with the scrap angle and BFH.

What is a “BFH”

 

[Dingocat]

Big F***ing Hammer

 

[WillMatrix]

Big F***ing Hammer

Lol like a mini sledge?

 

[Karttekk]

Soak both wheels down with a commercial duty rust penetrant, put the axle nuts on close to the wheels but not tight. If you can, push the kart while turning the steering wheel. Hopefully the turning and flexing of the axle will help break them loose. Maybe try lifting the back of the kart a few inches off the ground then dropping it & letting it bounce. That might help.

Knock'er Loose® Penetrating Solvent, 3 Wt Oz

An industrial strength, low viscosity super penetrant designed to quickly loosen and free seized, bound or frozen fasteners. Quickly permeates rust, scale, gum, grease and corrosion. Outperforms the competition as verified by independent tests.

www.crcindustries.com

 

[madprofessor]

Dingocat's right about a BFH, but in my less precise world (of great frustration) it's anything that suits the need that I can get some velocity (speed) going with that has enough weight (mass) to keep on going (momentum) after making contact (Whammo!!!) with my target.
The mini-sledges are great tools for that kind of job. My favorite is my fiberglass-handled 14" long rubber-gripped 4# blacksmith's hammer, so-called by the shape of the head, round flat front, flat wedge rear. My wood-handled 3# actual mini-sledgehammer is round flat front and back, a favorite of mine for its length, mine's only 9" long. Of course I also have a wood-handled 16# real 48" long sledgehammer, but I'm way too dangerous with it.

 

[WillMatrix]

Ok none of that worked!!!! I’m so frustrated. Time to use the and grinder and cutting them rims out

 

[madprofessor]

Did you get the locking collars slid off?

 

[WillMatrix]

Did you get the locking collars slid off?

How do I take them off?

 

[madprofessor]

See upper right corner of each post? There's a sort of faint #___ of that post to this thread. Your last was #37. Go back to #14, where I explain about the 3 types of locking collars. You appear to have the type that's just a solid hoop, a solid ring, a circle, a round piece of solid steel about maybe 3/8" wide, slid neatly onto your axle and up against the wheel.
That type would have 1 or more likely 2 setscrews recessed in it, with the holes filled with dirt. Spray them out real good with WD-40 or something, blast the holes clear.
Fit an allen wrench (hex wrench) into the allen head (recessed hex head) setscrews and unscrew the setscrews, take them all the way out if you want that hole available to squirt something slippery right down onto the axle through it.
The collar on the outside will either fall off or be driven off by the wheel when the wheel comes off. The collar on the inside you can grab around its circumference with a pair of channellock pliers (groove joint pliers) and try to spin it on the axle. Twisting back and forth, maybe you can back it up way along the axle out of your way, or just drive it off along with the wheel.

 

[WillMatrix]

See upper right corner of each post? There's a sort of faint #___ of that post to this thread. Your last was #37. Go back to #14, where I explain about the 3 types of locking collars. You appear to have the type that's just a solid hoop, a solid ring, a circle, a round piece of solid steel about maybe 3/8" wide, slid neatly onto your axle and up against the wheel.
That type would have 1 or more likely 2 setscrews recessed in it, with the holes filled with dirt. Spray them out real good with WD-40 or something, blast the holes clear.
Fit an allen wrench (hex wrench) into the allen head (recessed hex head) setscrews and unscrew the setscrews, take them all the way out if you want that hole available to squirt something slippery right down onto the axle through it.
The collar on the outside will either fall off or be driven off by the wheel when the wheel comes off. The collar on the inside you can grab around its circumference with a pair of channellock pliers (groove joint pliers) and try to spin it on the axle. Twisting back and forth, maybe you can back it up way along the axle out of your way, or just drive it off along with the wheel.

No I got the lock collars moving just fine it’s getting the rim off the axel that’s the problem. The collars are moving but the key way in the rims are stuck and there is no wiggle play in them at all. It’s like everything is so seized up

 

[madprofessor]

Karttekk's link above (post #33) is for presumably a favorite for him, I prefer "PB Blast" myself even with the strong smell, everybody's got their own tried and true or at least preferred penetrant product. That's where you are right now, application of penetrant with soak time and repeats as needed. Overnight soaks, smacking it hard after that then repeating application and more soak time. 10 minutes here, half hour there, overnight if it's getting late, smacking it after every soak.
Know this, WD-40 is not a penetrant, it's a lubricant and rust inhibitor. Chain lube is just that, a lube(ricant), not a penetrant. Etc., etc.
No matter how the wheel comes off, it should be full of penetrant already when it does, that's the part of the job that will contribute the most results.
About those pieces of keystock that are frozen into the keyways.............I personally have had basically foolproof success in my career with them on stuck blower wheels, bearings, you name it that locks on with a keyway. I've always used a (sharp pointed) scratch awl as a punch to slide keystocks down the keyways, maybe followed by a welding rod or another piece of smaller keystock, until removed, one less impediment to moving the stuck part. Awl point centered (so as not to mushroom corners of keystock) on the end of the keystock, tap it along the keyway with a common hammer. All this after application of much penetrant, of course. Wheels and bearings etc. can then be twisted back and forth on the shaft or axle to get them loose, that rotation of them on the shaft or axle is what usually freed them up for me.
If I had to whip out the oxy/acet torch it was to cut up the part or cut the axle off.