Possible future build idea 6x6

[Kartorbust]

I'll try to take a picture of it tonight when I'm home from work. It isn't to scale because I'm trying to at least get the basic mechanics laid out. It's on graph paper so it maybe hard to decipher, if I can I'll make lines darker to help it show up better. Ideally I'd make it in paint of a 3d program but my laptop is shot so I'm only on my phone.

---------- Post added at 01:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:04 PM ----------

So there aren't any dimensions on it yet. I'm loosely basing some dimensions off the Polaris 575 6x6 ATV and the JD Gator. I know the a fact that I'll be making the dump bed longer and taller, for hopefully more cubic capacity than either machine. I'm shooting for a 5'x3'x12 1/2' bed. Overall length of no more than 10' long and no wider than 50" from out side the tires. I'm thinking about running Ag tires that are 22-25" tall and 10" wide. That should give enough height and stability for using this in the woods.

Main frame is 1"x2"x10ga rectangular tubing. Walking axles might be made from the same material but A bit thicker.

 

[Kartorbust]

Here's the drawing of the walking axle. The axle itself needs to be more in the middle of the two beams, but it's good enough for now just as a concept drawing.

---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:19 PM ----------

Forgot to attach it

 

[jezter6]

Just spitballing again, but wouldn't you want the sprockets on the outside next to the wheel? As it stands there, (even with a crude example) any rotation of the walking axle would end up bumping some sort of frame unless it was about 3-4x wider than drawing.

 

[Kartorbust]

Just spitballing again, but wouldn't you want the sprockets on the outside next to the wheel? As it stands there, (even with a crude example) any rotation of the walking axle would end up bumping some sort of frame unless it was about 3-4x wider than drawing.

I had thought about doing like mini bike sprocket wheels, but it didn't seem like it would adapt well easily to add brakes. However in a lot of ways, this idea is more or less no different than an ATV with a swing arm, with the sprocket kind of out in the open. That was also why I thought maybe encasing the chain drive inside the walking axle to help protect it.

---------- Post added at 08:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:58 AM ----------

I still can more or less make protective skid plates for the drive train, though that also would hit most obstacles.

 

[OzFab]

Just spitballing again, but wouldn't you want the sprockets on the outside next to the wheel?

Your current concept calls for a LOT more hardware & engineering skills; for example, how do you intend to stop the short axles bearings from rotating in the block? You will need at least two bearings for each short axle, plus the 4 for the main axle, that's a total of 12 pillow &/or flange blocks which will take up a LOT more real estate...


It would be much simpler to have two plates with a stub axle on each end, to which you can attach a double flange hub to hold the wheel, sprocket & a brake drum; if you want to use disc brakes, some calipers can be fitted over the sprocket or use a spacer such as the one I made for the twin karts

 

[Kartorbust]

I hadn't considered the possibility of the short axles spinning in the bearings, if that is what are meaning. Yes I did realize that it would take quite a few pillow block bearings on this. I am considering though the stub fixed axles. Long as I can get it to work with 22x10 tires. The spacer you made would work very well. While I'm sure mechanical brakes would work, considering the working load maybe half a ton, I'd be way more comfortable with at least 3 hydraulic brakes 7" diameter 3/16" thick. 2 the walking axles and one on the front axle.

How well would in hub bearings hold up to extreme weight? I know at minimum with pillow blocks I'd want high speed bearings, with grease zerks for better longevity.

 

[OzFab]

Three brakes (although necessary) can be tricky to set up; first you need two master cylinders with a pivoting bar from each to the pedal (so even desired pressure is applied to both), then you'll need a proportioning valve on the rear lines...

Considering the majority of karts have in hub bearings in the front wheels, I don't see an issue...