New Project Kart With Real Potential

[AlphaRunner85]

A buddy of mine got me a real deal on a kart. The frame has a label on it that says "BAJA" and is a single seat kinda micro-rail/buggy thing with like 16" tires and a pseudo suspension.
It came packed with a 8hp briggs that to my surprise have a comet 30 series i do believe. AND it has an electric start and what looks like an alternator setup, and theres a battery box on the frame. PICS!

Football for size reference.

Shroud markings.

Bits of the torque converter

And more bits.

It needs a lot of work, which will start tomorrow.
Will post pics with progress. Anyone know a good place to get a rebuild breakdown for that comet 30 maybe?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

Looks like a manco dingo.

 

[Daveon]

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7332

 

[Blazkowiez]

That does have potential... aside from needing to clean the clutches, turn the motor around, hook everything up, and deal with a good deal of rust. My concern is your front wheels. I've seen several people do this, are those keyed lawnmower wheels on the front spindles? If so they do need to be removed, aside from the obvious problems with steering you have no bearings which means it just wont last long at all.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

Good eye on the front wheels.... new front wheels. i am having a lot of trouble liberating the torque converter driven from the jack shaft. It looks like someone let a monkey loose on the motor with a chisel because there are a few chunks knocked out of the block around the exhaust port. not good. we are currently investigating the possibility of using the crank from the 8hp on our other motor but i doubt it will work.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

Ok so i STILL cant get the driven off of the jack shaft and now we need a new jack shaft because i marred one end trying to get it loose. also might need a new part for the drive, i cant get the splined hub to come loose from the the half sleeve w/hub it apparently is seized inside the hub. i have used silicone penetrating fluid and wd-40 hammer and a few other tool and no dice. wont even budge. now im gonna have to cut the end off or grind it down so i can attempt to get it off. here are pics of the driven.

 

[mrfreyguy]

Is it a left hand thread?

 

[Blazkowiez]

No, it is not left hand thread, it is however very rusty.

On the drive clutch try slipping a screw driver down the shaft, larger than the hub but small enough it will drive through the clutch when you hit hit between two objects, such as a bench vise opened properly. Penetrating oil may take a while but this may be your friend if you can work it in there with some properly planned hits along the jack-shaft and your clutches.

 

[solomon]

If you need parts for that 8Hp i'm your guy. I have a nice side cover and crank (With bearing) cam, lifters, valves,springs,keepers,flywheel, head, pistons, rings, Con rods,Another Side Cover, and valve breather. Maybe some other stuff too. If you decide not to use that motor, i am very interested in your carb, as i need one.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

Nice idea with the screwdriver, and ive kill half a can of liquid wrench already. and i appreciate the offer solomon but the carb needs to be replaced.... the jet stem has been broken off.

 

[solomon]

You mena the long main jet? where did it snap? you can generally replace that part

 

[AlphaRunner85]

it snapped at the very base and i have no idea how i can unscrew it.

 

[Blazkowiez]

So you were able to get the hub out using that trick? Awesome.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

i havent had a chance to to work on it yet but i dont work till later tomorrow so im gonna give it a go im gonna let som wd40 soak on the seized hub over night and see if that helps any. i will update if i can get it apart

 

[AlphaRunner85]

well i tryed using the screwdriver through the hub and hitting that with the hammer and the most i did was destroy the bottom bart of the handle. i let wd40 soak through the hub overnight and the next morning it was gone but i might as well been hitting a tree for all the good it did... next im gonna try nonflamable liquid wrench and a heat gun.

 

[Blazkowiez]

Well, sorry to hear about your screw driver, it does work about 70% of the time when they are really stuck, this may be bad news rusted but heck, at the price these things cost I would be trying hard to get it free.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

thats my sentiment exactly at about $200 im gonna work on this sucker till my fingers fall off if i have to. im gonna try to heat up the outer plate on the drive and see if that will loosen it up enough to break loose. then i have to work on getting the driven off of the old jack shaft.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

can torque converters be mounted outboard and inboard?

 

[Blazkowiez]

A-Symmetrical systems must be mounted outboard. Symmetrical systems vary, the driver unit mounted on the engine must always be outboard, according to the winding (spring type) the driven may be mounted outboard or inboard, it may not be switched unless you disassemble the driven clutch, change the spring, settings, winding, and cam button placement.

In your case you have a series 30 assembly which is A-Symmetrical. You may not mount them any way but outboard.

 

[otaybay]

if i was you, i'd buy a 13hp clone. or 10hp clone...

but that frame is awesome for offroad. Though it looks like you need some new rear tires..