New Project Kart With Real Potential

[AlphaRunner85]

Would it be possible to mod a 5hp carb to the 8? we have an ol briggs 5hp carb laying around. The 8 horse has an electric start and charge coil which would rock.

 

[solomon]

he could always have an adapter fabbed up for use of another carb. I bet he could sell that crankshaft for a pretty penny too.

If its a bowl style carb, yea it could work with a fabbed up mount. If its a pick up tube carb then no.

 

[Blazkowiez]

I'm sure there is an adapter for a tilly online somewhere, if you've got the money it wouldn't be the worst thing ever.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

OK the other 5hp carb is a bowl style and its in great shape. im guessin it will run a little weak on a 8hp tho. the opening is maybe as much as 5mm smaller at the jet than the original but i matches right up the the motor... want to make an extension. ill put up pics soon.

 

[solomon]

pics would be awesome.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

Well here are the two carbs side by side

And i just brought in the starter and heres a pic of that

 

[solomon]

Do you have the rest of the pieces to that 5hp carb? Looks dirty too. Check if the starter motor turns over when using a car battery to "jump" it.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

i do have the bowl and float for that carb and actually its clean as a whistle. its the one on the right. i havent tested the started yet cuz i didnt know if it was 6v or 12v. i only see one terminal on the starter which makes me assume that i ground to the case the hit the hot with the wire

 

[AlphaRunner85]

well ive been working on the torque converter for what seems like a blue million yearsand today i ran my finger across the belt surfaces and it went SQUEEEEEEK! finally. still need a bushing and a clip ring for it but its basically done. now its time for the frame. there are several points where it was bolted instead of welded, so im gonna fix that. grind em down and weld em. then i have to put in a place for my rear, the old seat was wood back and rotten. ill put up some pics soon

 

[AlphaRunner85]

Look how shiny!!!



after all the work there is still some pitting.we were thinking about filling em with jb weld and sanding them down. Does tht make sense to anyone else? On my next day off im gonna start tearing the frame down and cleaning rust and start welding the bolted joints.
add a little support on the sides and a seat pan and we should be good to go.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

well i guess my thread is no longer worthy of a reply.....

THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!!!

 

[anderkart]

i havent tested the started yet cuz i didnt know if it was 6v or 12v. i only see one terminal on the starter which makes me assume that i ground to the case the hit the hot with the wire

Your plan to test that starter is correct.

6 volt starters work fine at 12 volts and actually crank the engine over faster than a 12 volt starter would because all the windings/components in their Fields and Armature are thicker and more heavy duty than 12 volt models. I've been running the same 6 volt starter (with the 12 volt system) on my old 1956 ford pickup since 1985.
The only draw back in this situation is a 6 volt starter heats up much faster while cranking at 12 volts, so If your engine still wont start after like maybe 60 seconds of cranking you'd just want to let the starter cool down for awhile before trying again.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

i pulled the starter apart and one of the out magnets was broken... not shattered just cracked down the middle. otherwise it looks ok, just have to put it together. today i stripped everything removable off of the frame. we will start sanding it down soon, just waiting for time and weather to coincide. were gonna rebuild the roll bar because it was REALLY weak. i could move it a couple of inches by shaking it. it was bolted on tho, were gonna weld it back on. i was stupid and forgot the camera so no pics at the moment. gonna clean up the flywheel, magneto, and see if i can salvage the alternator coil. the alternator coil look pretty bad tho. any thoughts on the jb weld to fill pitting on the torque converter faces? Thanks for the help guys i really appreciate all your input. i will post some pics of something asap.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

So here are the pics i promised
This is the head on the 8hp and its suprisingly clean.

Here is an odd valve retainer that is two pieces that sleave together. ideas on this would rock as we cant get it off. can it be replace with a hat valve retainer.(dunno what else to call it. sorry)

here is the front mount for the spindle.

the rearend and engine mount, as a side note there is enough room for the 13hp monster!!!

here is the seat area, going to add a roll cage around this

And the rear axle, we cant get either wheel off and we need new bearings and maybe new brakes so they must come off. once again ideas here would be great.
.
we got alot done tearing the frame down. now theres a good bit to do on the roll cage and rewire the starter and kill switch.

and do you think i can epoxy the magnet in the starter back together?

 

[solomon]

Hows the cylinder look on that engine? You need a valve spring compressor to remove that valve. Just check that it is not burn't and leave it be. Progress is looking good.

 

[anderkart]

do you think i can epoxy the magnet in the starter back together?

I'm not sure, I've never ran across that before. Did you ever hook up a battery and bench test your starter before taking it apart? If the starter still worked and the crack wasn't causing the magnet to drag against the Armature, I think I'd first give it a try without putting glue in the actual crack. The glue might act as an insulator and possibly lower the magnets overall strength. If the crack is keeping the magnet from staying in place, maybe you could just epoxy the back sides of the magnets to the starter housing.

 

[AlphaRunner85]

The magent seems to stay on the case which is nice, i didnt try hooking it up before i pulled it apart. it seemed a little stiff so i wanted to make sure there wasnt something jammed in it. it seems to do ok after i put it back together. one dry day ill take it out and hook it up to the car and see what happens. and idea what amp load on the starter is by any chance... i have a 12v bench supply but its only bout 3 amps.

 

[anderkart]

It'll draw a lot more then 3 amps. I'd expect a 30+ amp draw on a bench test and an initial surge of 50 amp or probably more while cranking the engine.

I took a closer look at your starter pic. Is that a bearing at the very end of the Armature shaft?
If so, it might be the only means of supporting that end of the Armature and you should reinstall the starter before testing it so the armature doesn't flop around inside.

 

[freakboy]

You need a valve spring compressor to remove that valve

no u dont

 

[newrider3]

no u dont

Ever tried to remove or install split keepers?