Need setup advice

[BaconBitRacing]

I was planning to stick with a clutch since everything is already set up for it.

That's fine, but when it wears out or burns out I'd suggest getting a T/Q.

Pardon my ignorance but what's a tav?

I was thinking a 60T sprocket (I found one on Amazon I believe will be a direct bolt on replacement), 40 chain, and 10T clutch.

TAV is the same thing as a T/Q

it looks like this. If you hit 'All the way Home' on this page (top left) then hit 'torque converters' you can learn about them. They look complex, but they are simple once you understand them.
edit: spelling

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Pardon my ignorance but what's a tav?

I was thinking a 60T sprocket (I found one on Amazon I believe will be a direct bolt on replacement), 40 chain, and 10T clutch.

Torq-a-verter.
T/C
Torque converter.
Same thing different name.

A clutch is not gonna work, jus my opinion, you will have to gear it like 9:1 at the least and its still not gonna pull like a tav will. The buggy is jus too heavy.
The complete kit is only around $60.

Will a 60t fit the frame?????

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Well $50 now.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[joshw0000]

That's fine, but when it wears out or burns out I'd suggest getting a T/Q.

TAV is the same thing as a T/Q View attachment 136931

it looks like this. If you hit 'All the way Home' on this page (top left) then hit 'torque converters' you can learn about them. They look complex, but they are simple once you understand them.
edit: spelling

Ah, thanks. I actually bought/installed one and returned it. One of my oil plugs is shaved so it would fit. I do understand that it's more ideal for my setup as a clutch is made for full throttle speeds, not stop and starts, and smaller tires. That said, how quick do you think a clutch would burn up? If I can get through a whole summer on one clutch or even 2, I'd be fine. They're cheaper than a T/Q and my oldest daughter is almost too big for this cart already. They haven't ridden it since last summer so we did a test fit this morning accompanied by the "Dad might have to sell this cart" talk.

 

[joshw0000]

Torq-a-verter.
T/C
Torque converter.
Same thing different name.

A clutch is not gonna work, jus my opinion, you will have to gear it like 9:1 at the least and its still not gonna pull like a tav will. The buggy is jus too heavy.
The complete kit is only around $60.

Will a 60t fit the frame?????

I'm glad you asked. No I don't think it will. The one that came off measured 7" across. A 60T measures 9.64". I only had about a half inch play on the old one so that would for sure hit the frame....back to the drawing board.

 

[joshw0000]

Well I'm back to where I started with no good direction to go. I have some choices but don't like any of them.

I can't fit a 60T sprocket. I found a 45T 40 series with 58mm bore that SHOULD fit my axle and not require any additional cutting/welding. With a 10T clutch sprocket, that's only 4.5/1 ratio. Somewhat better than I have now but I still don't know if that's enough to be fun/drive-able.

I found a 60T 35 series sprocket that SHOULD fit but I can only find a 12T clutch sprocket so that would be 5/1 ratio. This sprocket doesn't have a 58mm bore so I'd ultimately end up buying a new axle and other parts to mount the brake rotor and sprocket. The largest bore I could find is 51mm.

If I use a 60T 40 series sprocket with 10T clutch I MAY have to buy a new axle. The largest bore I could find is a 54mm. I could potentially grind it out to fit if the mounting holes line up. In order for that to work, I'd have to cut my frame and weld a supporting bracket. Alternatively, I could cut and move these back a couple inches. Again, neither of those are ideal.

What would you do?

 

[bigjake]

This is a jackshaft for a Coleman had same problem you did but the tires I'm running is 10 inches tall 4 inch wheels

 

[bigjake]

Now se what everybody else thinks change it to the 35 series 60t bite the bullet get a torque converter same price as 2 clutch's cheeper than a good clutch
If you can find a 35 sprocket with same bolt pattern as old sprocket would be great and hack out center and to fit over axle
I'm sure you can get a 10t 5/8 bore sprocket to fit on tc that would give you 6 to 1 final drive
Next problem would be maybe having to move the motor to the left to line sprockets up once you get the axle sprocket where it wants to be the install tav
The 35 chain Is what I'm worried about on a live axle but I know manco used it on some of their models just buy enuff to make 2 chains to start that would be the weak link so to say but I'm the kinda guy that if a 2 pound hammer will work I'm using a 10 pound

 

[Thepartsguy]

the sprocket was already cutting it close to the ground without the frame notched. and a 43t axle sprocket or even a few teeth more isn’t going to help anything even with a 10t clutch. Maybe go with the above math and get a new hub and sprocket that can sit beside the original and use the t/q... sad Your not close. I would for free give you my two spare un-needed hangers some flangettes and I even have a free 60t you could have that’s 420 chain. To be 100% honest I would just start cutting.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Now se what everybody else thinks change it to the 35 series 60t bite the bullet get a torque converter same price as 2 clutch's cheeper than a good clutch
If you can find a 35 sprocket with same bolt pattern as old sprocket would be great and hack out center and to fit over axle
I'm sure you can get a 10t 5/8 bore sprocket to fit on tc that would give you 6 to 1 final drive
Next problem would be maybe having to move the motor to the left to line sprockets up once you get the axle sprocket where it wants to be the install tav
The 35 chain Is what I'm worried about on a live axle but I know manco used it on some of their models just buy enuff to make 2 chains to start that would be the weak link so to say but I'm the kinda guy that if a 2 pound hammer will work I'm using a 10 pound

Before he notched the engine mount I said in an earlier post to get a new hub sprocket. And just slide it on beside the welded hub to get clutch inboard.. We all quickly figured out a bigger sprocket will hit the frame. And also hit the ground. just a cluster if you ask me... nothing about it is gonna work without op finding someone to weld. and the hangers need raised... I just live axle swapped a gokart and it is a lot of work... I mean a lot of work... for op to cut the Hangers and start new would be a lot of work.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Well I'm back to where I started with no good direction to go. I have some choices but don't like any of them.

I can't fit a 60T sprocket. I found a 45T 40 series with 58mm bore that SHOULD fit my axle and not require any additional cutting/welding. With a 10T clutch sprocket, that's only 4.5/1 ratio. Somewhat better than I have now but I still don't know if that's enough to be fun/drive-able.

I found a 60T 35 series sprocket that SHOULD fit but I can only find a 12T clutch sprocket so that would be 5/1 ratio. This sprocket doesn't have a 58mm bore so I'd ultimately end up buying a new axle and other parts to mount the brake rotor and sprocket. The largest bore I could find is 51mm.

If I use a 60T 40 series sprocket with 10T clutch I MAY have to buy a new axle. The largest bore I could find is a 54mm. I could potentially grind it out to fit if the mounting holes line up. In order for that to work, I'd have to cut my frame and weld a supporting bracket. Alternatively, I could cut and move these back a couple inches. Again, neither of those are ideal.

What would you do?

A 30 series tav, around 4yrs old, still leaves the rubber on the concrete. My grandsons buggy, my 200# butt, and not even close to being up to temperature.
What would I do??? Save my penny's and make it right.

 

[Thepartsguy]

A 30 series tav, around 4yrs old, still leaves the rubber on the concrete. My grandsons buggy, my 200# butt, and not even close to being up to temperature.
What would I do??? Save my penny's and make it right.

do it right the first time and it‘s worth it. Do it wrong twice and have no spare money do do it a third time will make it someone elses project quick..

 

[joshw0000]

Before he notched the engine mount I said in an earlier post to get a new hub sprocket. And just slide it on beside the welded hub to get clutch inboard.. We all quickly figured out a bigger sprocket will hit the frame. And also hit the ground. just a cluster if you ask me... nothing about it is gonna work without op finding someone to weld. and the hangers need raised... I just live axle swapped a gokart and it is a lot of work... I mean a lot of work... for op to cut the Hangers and start new would be a lot of work.

The old axle isn't keyed. If I can't bolt to the existing hub, how would I secure to the axle without replacing it?

I fully understand how much work is involved. This was from February when I was mocking it for a T/C. I started in January removing the old engine, cutting out old brackets, and making supports. That was when I discovered I couldn't use a T/C with a 428 chain and essentially started over (the first time).

 

[joshw0000]

I guess this little guy is why I've leaned towards a clutch. I didn't build it but it'll squirrel out from under me.

 

[Thepartsguy]

The old axle isn't keyed. If I can't bolt to the existing hub, how would I secure to the axle without replacing it?

I fully understand how much work is involved. This was from February when I was mocking it for a T/C. I started in January removing the old engine, cutting out old brackets, and making supports. That was when I discovered I couldn't use a T/C with a 428 chain and essentially started over (the first time).

You would have it welded like the first one and the kart would be able to be swapped between clutch or t/q but the clutch side of it would be useless.. and with the small sprocket size limited by frame/ground clearance as said above t/q gearing would still not be optimal.. and then you cut it all up and buy new again.. again.. the Frame is not screwing you the hangers welded up so high is your problem... if you had ground clearance you could get a 60t notch the frame and run a 30 series... that rear mini bike sprocket is a 60t or maybe a bigger 72t stump puller?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I guess this little guy is why I've leaned towards a clutch. I didn't build it but it'll squirrel out from under me.

Lol. I'm sure it will. Look at the sprocket compared to the tire size.
That's what I was saying earlier about torq to tire & power to weight ratio.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I guess this little guy is why I've leaned towards a clutch. I didn't build it but it'll squirrel out from under me.

if that is a 10t clutch a 12t would speed it up a bit while very slightly helping to keep it from jumping out from under you when mash the gas off the line.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

There's not a person in the world could ever talk me into putting a clutch back on my ridge runner, turd motor mini bikes. No freaking way, I know better, lol.

 

[joshw0000]

You would have it welded like the first one and the kart would be able to be swapped between clutch or t/q but the clutch side of it would be useless.. and with the small sprocket size limited by frame/ground clearance as said above t/q gearing would still not be optimal.. and then you cut it all up and buy new again.. again.. the Frame is not screwing you the hangers welded up so high is your problem... if you had ground clearance you could get a 60t notch the frame and run a 30 series... that rear mini bike sprocket is a 60t or maybe a bigger 72t stump puller?

It's a 12T in the front and I'm not sure about the rear. I believe it's a big 72T.

For the cart, I don't see why a 60T 30 series wouldn't fit. It's 7.28" compared to the 7" that's on it now. It's not close to the ground, however a large stick or rock could hit it. I don't think anything normally in my yard would.

The issue is that I'd have to run a 12T drive sprocket (10T doesn't exist for 35 chain), so it'd have a 5/1 ratio. If you think that would work, I could order a new axle and have it running by next weekend. I'd rather swap the axle for ~$100 and have the freedom of adjustability. The saved time would be cheaper than my time + a welder.

 

[Thepartsguy]

It's a 12T in the front and I'm not sure about the rear. I believe it's a big 72T.

For the cart, I don't see why a 60T 30 series wouldn't fit. It's 7.28" compared to the 7" that's on it now. It's not close to the ground, however a large stick or rock could hit it. I don't think anything normally in my yard would.

The issue is that I'd have to run a 12T drive sprocket (10T doesn't exist for 35 chain), so it'd have a 5/1 ratio. If you think that would work, I could order a new axle and have it running by next weekend. I'd rather swap the axle for ~$100 and have the freedom of adjustability. The saved time would be cheaper than my time + a welder.

10t 35 chain c-sprockets for t/q exist unless you buy one with a 3/4 driven..