Need setup advice

Thepartsguy

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The t/q will not work because the clutch is ran outboard and t/q sprockets run inboard. you cannot move the axle sprocket because it is welded to the axle. If you could move it that would not matter because it is such a small sprocket. you cannot use an engine riser mount to mount the t/c because even with the t/q the kart would still not move. and with that i’m out of ideas.. If the kart was mine I’d pull it and order new. After doing a ton of research...and your going to modify the frame as said above to fit the bigger sprocket.
 

BrownStainRacing

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You might have to take the engine plate back off to get that axel out. The engine plate should be moved over a little to the right and raised up for a t/c, or jackshaft set up anyways.
To get that axel out:
Remove both wheels
Unbolt caliper
Remove axel bearing housings
Unbolt disk and sprocket
Move axel to far right, the engine plate will be in the way here.
Remove disk
Move axle to far left
Remove sprocket.
 

BaconBitRacing

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The t/q will not work because the clutch is ran outboard and t/q sprockets run inboard. you cannot move the axle sprocket because it is welded to the axle. If you could move it that would not matter because it is such a small sprocket. you cannot use an engine riser mount to mount the t/c because even with the t/q the kart would still not move. and with that i’m out of ideas.. If the kart was mine I’d pull it and order new. After doing a ton of research...and your going to modify the frame as said above to fit the bigger sprocket.
Seems to be a common issue. I have figured out a work around but it's strange. You get a 40 series and a crankshaft sleeve to boost the shaft size to 1". Then do a flipped around from standard mounting. You cannot do this with a 30 series because it is asymmetric. Pancothedog has the same setup but with a 1' shaft engine (probably a predator 420). The downside is extra size and cost of the 40 series. Also I can't confirm that a 40 series will actually bolt up to a 212 with a crankshaft sleeve.
 

joshw0000

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You might have to take the engine plate back off to get that axel out. The engine plate should be moved over a little to the right and raised up for a t/c, or jackshaft set up anyways.
To get that axel out:
Remove both wheels
Unbolt caliper
Remove axel bearing housings
Unbolt disk and sprocket
Move axel to far right, the engine plate will be in the way here.
Remove disk
Move axle to far left
Remove sprocket.

Raising the motor is a problem as the cart has suspension and right now it clears full motion but if it's raised, the bar above could hit the motor. I started out with a T/C and started welding for the motor raised and set in to align before I realized the rear sprocket wouldn't work with a 40 series chain. The motor would sit very close the suspension as well.

Can someone give me a lamens explanation for a jackshaft. I've never heard of it.

This cart once ran fine with that rear sprocket on a smaller motor. There's no way to make it work with the new motor?
 

BrownStainRacing

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Raising the motor is a problem as the cart has suspension and right now it clears full motion but if it's raised, the bar above could hit the motor. I started out with a T/C and started welding for the motor raised and set in to align before I realized the rear sprocket wouldn't work with a 40 series chain. The motor would sit very close the suspension as well.

Can someone give me a lamens explanation for a jackshaft. I've never heard of it.

This cart once ran fine with that rear sprocket on a smaller motor. There's no way to make it work with the new motor?
Used as a gear reduction, and to line up sprockets. Makes changing gear ratios alot easier.
 

Thepartsguy

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I can, and have, unbolted the rear sprocket
perfect. follow the above post to remove the axle. unbolt the sprocket and get a 60t for your hub. if you can get it apart without going into full damage control funded by your wallet a 10t-12t clutch and sprocket set with the chain is like $35
 

Thepartsguy

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get that axle off and just put another sprocket/hub beside the one welded to the axle? Then just run the t/q? doubtful there’s enough room just an idea
 

Thepartsguy

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To me it looks like you could Get the axle apart remove the 43t entirely then slide on a new hub/sprocket beside it matching the inboard t/q sprocket and you would just have a useless welded hub that’s there. Edit: not useless if you ever wanted to convert back to clutch the hub is there.2559409F-7E82-42CA-9625-8D9658C73FEB.png
 

BaconBitRacing

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To me it looks like you could Get the axle apart remove the 43t entirely then slide on a new hub/sprocket beside it matching the inboard t/q sprocket and you would just have a useless welded hub that’s there. Edit: not useless if you ever wanted to convert back to clutch the hub is there.View attachment 136910
That wouldn't result in ground clearance issues, would it? Getting your chain in the dirt doesn't sound like the best way for long chain life.
 

BrownStainRacing

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To me it looks like you could Get the axle apart remove the 43t entirely then slide on a new hub/sprocket beside it matching the inboard t/q sprocket and you would just have a useless welded hub that’s there. Edit: not useless if you ever wanted to convert back to clutch the hub is there.View attachment 136910
I see what you mean. Mount the t/c plate forward of the engine, with a 9t sprocket. Find a hub that fits around the axle, and biggest sprocket that don't hit the bar behind the engine. This way, he could use the brakes he has. It might not be the perfect gear ratio, but would be at least get him and the kids moving forward.
See, jus some thinking. Now my head hurts.
 

BaconBitRacing

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I see what you mean. Mount the t/c plate forward of the engine, with a 9t sprocket. Find a hub that fits around the axle, and biggest sprocket that don't hit the bar behind the engine. This way, he could use the brakes he has. It might not be the perfect gear ratio, but would be at least get him and the kids moving forward.
See, jus some thinking. Now my head hurts.
If I remember correctly, the 9T doesn't exist for the 30 Series, not enough material. I could be wrong, though.
 

Thepartsguy

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That wouldn't result in ground clearance issues, would it? Getting your chain in the dirt doesn't sound like the best way for long chain life.
Good eye! Yupp that sprocket doesn’t look like it has room to grow much. I’m really trying to think of what I would do if it was in front of me. And it looks like I’d be cutting hangers and the Frame to make a t/q and a bigger sprocket work. Unless op can get a jackshaft working. still would be welding involved.
 

Thepartsguy

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If I remember correctly, the 9T doesn't exist for the 30 Series, not enough material. I could be wrong, though.
i Had to search up c-sprocket to find what I was looking for. Nothing would come up under a t/q sprocket Search..
 

joshw0000

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There's not a lot of clearance. And you can probably see that I'm not a welder. I'd like to avoid cutting the frame as I don't trust that I can put it back together and it be strong enough.
 

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BrownStainRacing

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Good eye! Yupp that sprocket doesn’t look like it has room to grow much. I’m really trying to think of what I would do if it was in front of me. And it looks like I’d be cutting hangers and the Frame to make a t/q and a bigger sprocket work. Unless op can get a jackshaft working. still would be
Would a #41 sprocket 43t, be smaller diameter then a 428 43t.??? If it is, then he could possibly get at #41 46t or even a 50t. Probly have to measure the 428 43t he has now.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Would a #41 sprocket 43t, be smaller diameter then a 428 43t.??? If it is, then he could possibly get at #41 46t or even a 50t. Probly have to measure the 428 43t he has now.
Nevermind. I see now they are same pitch. So they would be same outer diameter.
 
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