Need setup advice

[Thepartsguy]

That's a good start. You can mock up the engine and tav and see how far you are off from the axle sprocket. If you can turn the clutch around on the crankshaft where the sprocket is on the inside, will show you where the tav sprocket will line up with the axle sprocket, jus for measuring, not running, jus mock up.
I'll check today on how much wider the 420 chain is compared to the 40 and 41, I should have some old some where. I'm concerned about the space between the back of the driven and the backing plate where the tav sprocket goes on the shaft, this area is narrow, ive had the chain hit the back of driven and backing plate causing the master link clip to break or pop off, same with 1/2 links. That's why I only use #41 chain and no 1/2 links. I have no problems at all with the narrower #41 chain when using a tav with backing plate. I'll let you know what I find.

Your not supposed to use master/half links at all. I always just use a chain break to push the pin almost all the way out. Then slip the chain back together and tap the pin back in. And peen the ends over a bit. we have loose gravel roads and grass etc.. spin donuts and just generally beat on them harsh and the chain is never a problem. it was always very problematic with master/half Links. of course the weakest links.. we do not get miles from home relying on master links. One broke on me in a parking lot and I pushed the chain against the road to split the broken link and managed to limp it home.. never again. If I had to choose between 40 chain the strongest In it’s class with a master link or 35 chain with no master link I would take 35 chain.. master links are no good. Half links worse..

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Your not supposed to use master/half links at all. I always just use a chain break to push the pin almost all the way out. Then slip the chain back together and tap the pin back in. And peen the ends over a bit. we have loose gravel roads and grass etc.. spin donuts and just generally beat on them harsh and the chain is never a problem. it was always very problematic with master/half Links. of course the weakest links.. we do not get miles from home relying on master links. One broke on me in a parking lot and I pushed the chain against the road to split the broken link and managed to limp it home.. never again.

I agree, 1/2 links are no good. But when morons put too big of a back tire on a mini bike and now chain adjustment is alot less, there's not much choice. But, I fixed his problem, he needed a bigger sprocket anyway with the bigger tire, lol. I have 0, none, no problems at all running master links, I run straight chains and sprockets, not overly tight. A little stretch with a new chain, that's normal. I live on a 5 mile dead end road with miles of old logging road trails, I don't have any problems with chains. Now I've had to pick others up that lost the master link cas they didn't put it on the right direction, lol. They put it on right now.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Your not supposed to use master/half links at all. I always just use a chain break to push the pin almost all the way out. Then slip the chain back together and tap the pin back in. And peen the ends over a bit. we have loose gravel roads and grass etc.. spin donuts and just generally beat on them harsh and the chain is never a problem. it was always very problematic with master/half Links. of course the weakest links.. we do not get miles from home relying on master links. One broke on me in a parking lot and I pushed the chain against the road to split the broken link and managed to limp it home.. never again. If I had to choose between 40 chain the strongest In it’s class with a master link or 35 chain with no master link I would take 35 chain.. master links are no good. Half links worse..

I gotta do a jackshaft clutch swap today with a 35, and 41 chain. Then I'll put it to the test. If I have any chain problems, it's gonna be your fault, lmao.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Your not supposed to use master/half links at all. I always just use a chain break to push the pin almost all the way out. Then slip the chain back together and tap the pin back in. And peen the ends over a bit. we have loose gravel roads and grass etc.. spin donuts and just generally beat on them harsh and the chain is never a problem. it was always very problematic with master/half Links. of course the weakest links.. we do not get miles from home relying on master links. One broke on me in a parking lot and I pushed the chain against the road to split the broken link and managed to limp it home.. never again. If I had to choose between 40 chain the strongest In it’s class with a master link or 35 chain with no master link I would take 35 chain.. master links are no good. Half links worse..

Yeah with your riding area, getting stranded is a big deal. That's a very long walk home. Brownstain that riding area sounds like a dream!

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Yeah with your riding area, getting stranded is a big deal. That's a very long walk home. Brownstain that riding area sounds like a dream!

Its pretty awesome. I'll get this jackshaft done today, Grandson should be over in a bit to help. We'll go for a ride and grap some pics, if I remember my phone. I try not to carry stuff in my pockets, lose it out here and it's gone for good.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Its pretty awesome. I'll get this jackshaft done today, Grandson should be over in a bit to help. We'll go for a ride and grap some pics, if I remember my phone. I try not to carry stuff in my pockets, lose it out here and it's gone for good.

I would love that! What kart ya driving?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I would love that! What kart ya driving?

My help didn't show. I got'er done anyway. I'm impressed with the change, I really thought it would fall on its face with me. Went from a 10:1 gear at 4200 max to a 9.26:1 at 4200 max, flat level ground. it did slow to 3800 climbing the gravel hill, but still pulled me. Should pull my grandson good with more mph now.

I'm grap a sandwich and hit the trails. I'll take my mini bike, that lil 25mph turd motor mini bike will take for ever to go to the end of the road and back. I could take my grandsons buggy, but it'll still take too long.

 

[joshw0000]

Now here. is tav for a 3/4" shaft?? And driven for 5/8" shaft????? Your crankshaft is 3/4 and the jackshaft coming with your kit is 5/8, make sure you have ordered the right kit and driven.

Yes, 3/4" shaft and 30 series TAV with 3/4" to 5/8". The 7" is 5/8".

 

[joshw0000]

Your not supposed to use master/half links at all. I always just use a chain break to push the pin almost all the way out. Then slip the chain back together and tap the pin back in. And peen the ends over a bit. we have loose gravel roads and grass etc.. spin donuts and just generally beat on them harsh and the chain is never a problem. it was always very problematic with master/half Links. of course the weakest links.. we do not get miles from home relying on master links. One broke on me in a parking lot and I pushed the chain against the road to split the broken link and managed to limp it home.. never again. If I had to choose between 40 chain the strongest In it’s class with a master link or 35 chain with no master link I would take 35 chain.. master links are no good. Half links worse..

That's what master links are for? If not, it'd be a total PITA anytime you have to remove/replace the chain. I always make sure to face the master link the right way, else it can back itself off as you drive.

Knock on wood - no problems with them yet.

 

[joshw0000]

Sometimes Amazon beats it's own scheduled delivery dates. It'd be nice if they did that this weekend.

 

[Thepartsguy]

That's what master links are for? If not, it'd be a total PITA anytime you have to remove/replace the chain. I always make sure to face the master link the right way, else it can back itself off as you drive.

Knock on wood - no problems with them yet.

They will break the second you start spinning donuts in the gravel. A chain break tool wraps around the chain and does every single bit of the work for you. The hardest part of the job is laying the darn chain flat to tap the pin back in. I know all about a hammer and punch. exactly Why I got a chain break tool.

 

[joshw0000]

They will break the second you start spinning donuts in the gravel. A chain break tool wraps around the chain and does every single bit of the work for you. The hardest part of the job is laying the darn chain flat to tap the pin back in. I know all about a hammer and punch. exactly Why I got a chain break tool.

The chain break tool is only for removing a link(s) though. I've tried to reattach links with that thing and it's not easy. If that works for you, I'm sure it's better and stronger, but if you sell it to someone and they work on it later, they're gonna cuss.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I would love that! What kart ya driving?

I'm back. Didn't get much of any road pics, was having too much fun in the woods. Gone longer then I thought, wife came looking for me.

I'll start a new thread "backyards, playgrounds, and other fun places"

Oh,.... I better not forget "Tiller drag strips" for @Thepartsguy

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@joshw0000
I forgot to get back with you on those chain widths. I don't have any #420 chain to compare with the 40 or 41. The 40 is wider. I use #40 on my grandsons buggy, but it don't use a tav back plate. Both the 40 and 41 fit 420 sprockets. This sprocket works with all 3 chains, and is marked for #420.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@joshw0000
When you get your driven in. Mark the cam and pulley. That spring is preloaded, and when the snapring comes off, it will unload the spring, the mark on the cam will move to the right. Marking those 2 pieces will let you know where it needs to be (preloaded) when you get it back together.
Heres a couple pics.
Put the spring in the hole where the pen is. This hole is used for heavy under powered vehicles. Make sure your marks line back up.
After you get the snap ring back on, take a big enough socket, put it over the snap ring and wack it good with a BFH. This will make sure the ring is locked down and seated in the groove. If it's not locked down good, it will pop off as soon as the tav starts to shift. Don't ask me how I know, .

The tav's are no perfect outta the box. I've learned a couple of mods that make them alot more reliable and take less maintenance. Don't cost nothing and really ez to do. I gotta change a rear sprocket today, I'll grap some more pics. If you interested, let know and I will post them.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

@joshw0000
When you get your driven in. Mark the cam and pulley. That spring is preloaded, and when the snapring comes off, it will unload the spring, the mark on the cam will move to the right. Marking those 2 pieces will let you know where it needs to be (preloaded) when you get it back together.
Heres a couple pics.
Put the spring in the hole where the pen is. This hole is used for heavy under powered vehicles. Make sure your marks line back up.
After you get the snap ring back on, take a big enough socket, put it over the snap ring and wack it good with a BFH. This will make sure the ring is locked down and seated in the groove. If it's not locked down good, it will pop off as soon as the tav starts to shift. Don't ask me how I know, .

The tav's are no perfect outta the box. I've learned a couple of mods that make them alot more reliable and take less maintenance. Don't cost nothing and really ez to do. I gotta change a rear sprocket today, I'll grap some more pics. If you interested, let know and I will post them.
View attachment 137080View attachment 137081

If he ain't interested, I am. I can't even put a tc on my kart lol.

 

[joshw0000]

@joshw0000
When you get your driven in. Mark the cam and pulley. That spring is preloaded, and when the snapring comes off, it will unload the spring, the mark on the cam will move to the right. Marking those 2 pieces will let you know where it needs to be (preloaded) when you get it back together.
Heres a couple pics.
Put the spring in the hole where the pen is. This hole is used for heavy under powered vehicles. Make sure your marks line back up.
After you get the snap ring back on, take a big enough socket, put it over the snap ring and wack it good with a BFH. This will make sure the ring is locked down and seated in the groove. If it's not locked down good, it will pop off as soon as the tav starts to shift. Don't ask me how I know, .

The tav's are no perfect outta the box. I've learned a couple of mods that make them alot more reliable and take less maintenance. Don't cost nothing and really ez to do. I gotta change a rear sprocket today, I'll grap some more pics. If you interested, let know and I will post them.
View attachment 137080View attachment 137081

Yes, please do. I'm about to go enjoy a few cold ones and do some preliminary fitments. I have the chain and torque converter now. The 7" drive should be in tomorrow. I'm not sure if I'll get anything else in this weekend.

Thanks!

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Yes, please do. I'm about to go enjoy a few cold ones and do some preliminary fitments. I have the chain and torque converter now. The 7" drive should be in tomorrow. I'm not sure if I'll get anything else in this weekend.

Thanks!

Ahh yes, a few cold ones is essential to most peoples kart wrenching success.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Lol, that's what I do. Have a few adult cold beverages, look, inspect, measure, think of other ideas, more adult cold beverages, after a few hrs of that, well.......the hell with it, there's always tomorrow.

If you get a chance, pull that 6" driven apart, and put it back together. It'll give you an idea of what the 7" is gonna be like. Those bolts that come with the tav, for the back plate to side cover and crankshaft dont fit. Check em to make sure.

I'll post up those other pics later or tomorrow.

Yes, please do. I'm about to go enjoy a few cold ones and do some preliminary fitments. I have the chain and torque converter now. The 7" drive should be in tomorrow. I'm not sure if I'll get anything else in this weekend.

Thanks!

 

[joshw0000]

Lol, that's what I do. Have a few adult cold beverages, look, inspect, measure, think of other ideas, more adult cold beverages, after a few hrs of that, well.......the hell with it, there's always tomorrow.

If you get a chance, pull that 6" driven apart, and put it back together. It'll give you an idea of what the 7" is gonna be like. Those bolts that come with the tav, for the back plate to side cover and crankshaft dont fit. Check em to make sure.

I'll post up those other pics later or tomorrow.

Haha, I was just about to say that. The threads are too course. I have some but they're slightly shorter. They're not much shorter so they MIGHT be ok. What do you think? I'll definitely need a new bolt for the crankshaft. I think you posted sizes a little bit back.

I don't think I'll have any clearance issues. Especially when it's shifted over. I do see one huge issue. Those fins have gotta go or I'll never get a chain on it. Guess I'll be grinding tonight.