Need setup advice

[joshw0000]

Before you pull the tav plate off, get the driver and belt outta the way. Reach down and get a handful of both chains, and squeeze together. You should see where the flex is coming from. Or try a big pair of channel locks around both chains, make sure chain is tight. I'm sure you will see something move.

How thick was that square tubing????

These lil motors will twist and bend steel if anything is flexing. It jus gets worse and worse.

Yea that puppy is cool. I've never seen 1 like that. I know all about crap getting destroyed

The squeeze test revealed the culprit. It's the corner of the plate closest to the rear tire where the plate is welded to the frame. I put a lot of material on it but I guess I didn't have it hot enough to fully bond the material. It makes sense the corner furthest from the motor gets the most strain since the motor is suspended off the other side. All of the other welds seem to be holding pretty well.

I'll take the motor back off this weekend, grind some more of the fins down where the chain is rubbing, grind off some material off the plate/frame and weld that plate to the frame better.

The tubing isn't super thick. I forgot to measure it but it's the 2" x 2" tubing used for metal buildings and carports. I didn't see any flex in the tubing. The way I have it mounted, it'd basically have to bend all 4 tubes at once to make it flex. I have 6 bolts in the tubing. 2 through the motor into the tube (where it hangs over the plate), 2 through the motor and tube and plate, and 2 through the tube to the plate.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Good deal. . In the last vid, you can clearly see the motor jump to the left, then squat down.

Get another picture or 2 from that area, might be able to get some solid spacers in there some how.

You would be surprised at some of these motor plates ive had to replace over the years. I'm not talking about sheet metal stock crap, I'm talking about 3/16" - 1/4" plates, jus twisted, bent, ripped, mangled junk after a couple years of abuse from hard launches. Some of them built " turd motors" ain't no joke, now.

 

[joshw0000]

Before you pull the tav plate off, get the driver and belt outta the way. Reach down and get a handful of both chains, and squeeze together. You should see where the flex is coming from. Or try a big pair of channel locks around both chains, make sure chain is tight. I'm sure you will see something move.

How thick was that square tubing????

These lil motors will twist and bend steel if anything is flexing. It jus gets worse and worse.

Yea that puppy is cool. I've never seen 1 like that. I know all about crap getting destroyed

The tubing is only 1/16th. I completely forgot to take pics of the mounted motor. I'll remember next time.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

The tubing is only 1/16th. I completely forgot to take pics of the mounted motor. I'll remember next time.

It is thin, but I think you found all that flex.

Maybe with some more bracing, and/or add some gussets in the weaker spots, maybe some 1" square tubing back to front, under that weak spot, idk jus gotta keep trying.

Keep at it, you'll get it right. It might take a couple more tries, that's jus part of it.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

The tubing is only 1/16th. I completely forgot to take pics of the mounted motor. I'll remember next time.

I think I have figured out your flex problem.

Take that 2" plate off.

Use 1 1/4" square tubing, .1" thick walls.

4 pieces same length ( side to side) as your 2" tubing.

Place 2 pieces UNDER the bars holding motor plate. Side to side.

Place the other 2 pieces on top of the motor plate. Side to side.

Use 4 bolts, nuts, washers, to hold them together, outside the motor plate, closest to bars as possible.
Use this to keep chain tight, front to back movement. We will call these "sliders".

Use 2 pieces of 1 1/4" tubing, 2" longer then the mounting holes on engines, mounted to engine with 1" over hang on all ends, front to back. We call these "engine mounts".

With the 4 pieces (sliders) bolted together, and squeezing on bars, slid all the way back, snug but not tight, place the engine with the 2 pieces mounted (engine mounts) so sprockets line up straight.

When things are straight and squared up, and you have access to the engine mount bolts, tack the engine mounts to the tops of the sliders.

NO ENGINE FIRES FROM GAS, PLEASE during tack welds.

unbolt engine and weld engine mounts in every area possible, to top of sliders.

What you think??????

GetMetals

getmetals.com

 

[joshw0000]

I think I have figured out your flex problem.

Take that 2" plate off.

Use 1 1/4" square tubing, .1" thick walls.

4 pieces same length ( side to side) as your 2" tubing.

Place 2 pieces UNDER the bars holding motor plate. Side to side.

Place the other 2 pieces on top of the motor plate. Side to side.

Use 4 bolts, nuts, washers, to hold them together, outside the motor plate, closest to bars as possible.
Use this to keep chain tight, front to back movement. We will call these "sliders".

Use 2 pieces of 1 1/4" tubing, 2" longer then the mounting holes on engines, mounted to engine with 1" over hang on all ends, front to back. We call these "engine mounts".

With the 4 pieces (sliders) bolted together, and squeezing on bars, slid all the way back, snug but not tight, place the engine with the 2 pieces mounted (engine mounts) so sprockets line up straight.

When things are straight and squared up, and you have access to the engine mount bolts, tack the engine mounts to the tops of the sliders.

NO ENGINE FIRES FROM GAS, PLEASE during tack welds.

unbolt engine and weld engine mounts in every area possible, to top of sliders.

What you think??????

GetMetals

getmetals.com

I think I understand what you're saying and I do think it would work. Cost and effort are the restricting factors. For the price of the 1.25" tubes, I could probably buy pre-made plates that would work the same. And this would ultimately raise the engine another 1/2" while 2" total is the sweet spot (I believe). Plus I got the 2" tubes dirt cheap ($3/ft).

I'm not saying that's not ultimately what I'll have to do, but at this point, the tubes aren't allowing the flex. It's the steel plate. When I squeezed the chain, I could see one of my welds letting loose on the opposite side, from the frame. I think I had the heat too low so it was leaving material but not bonding the 2 pieces. I want to try fixing that before I start remaking the spacer as I did weld all 4 pieces pretty well (by my standards at least) and they feel very sturdy to me.

On another note, since all the internet trackers now know I'm into go karts, an ad popped up for some parts today. The seller said they bought them from a storage locker so they know nothing about them and they want part anything out. And they won't take less than $250 for everything...which I don't need. Notice the plates at the bottom right. I think something like that would work for me (raising the engine and allow for sideways adjustment). Any idea what these are called or where they came from?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

OK. I got you now. I thought the tubes were flexing where the engine hangs over. Yea, that will be jus a clean up and try weld again.

Did u post a pic or am I missing something?????

 

[joshw0000]

I tried to but for some reason I barely have enough internet to post. Photo uploads fail and I can't even upload to Google. I'll try later with wifi.

OK. I got you now. I thought the tubes were flexing where the engine hangs over. Yea, that will be jus a clean up and try weld again.

Did u post a pic or am I missing something????

 

[joshw0000]

OK. I got you now. I thought the tubes were flexing where the engine hangs over. Yea, that will be jus a clean up and try weld again.

Did u post a pic or am I missing something?????

Here are the photos.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Here are the photos.

Those are old gokart frame race parts. Not for yard karts. Those parts are for quik change, back on the track parts. I don't see anything you can use.

 

[Denny]

Spindles and a few of the bearings maybe are usable but not much else. Keep your money in your pocket.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Here are the photos.

Yep I’d say I‘ll have to agree with Denny, it looks like turds he wants to get rid of. Brand new maybe 250. I’d just buy a kart with that much. I bought my streaker for $200 (overpaid a bit, but it’s in good solid shape) no usable engine, no clutch, no chain, working brakes. I might part the Clinton 3.5 hp out on The Bay of E.

 

[joshw0000]

Shifting projects. This is the bottom of the mounting plate that I did such a horrible job welding. Time to undo and redo it all.

New video by Josh Walker

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Yeap.....I vote, clean it up.

When you get it cleaned up. Take some 3/8" or 5/16" bolts, cut or grind the heads off, lay em down in that gap and weld em to the plate and the frame.

It might be easier if you could get the buggy to sit on its side. Or jus take the swing arm off and flip it upside down, and weld underneath the plate too.

Either way....better you then me, I hate cleaning up peoples mess.

I give you credit for trying, you will get better.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

@joshw0000
Looking for a progress report, please.

 

[joshw0000]

@joshw0000
Looking for a progress report, please.

I grinded the old welds off, filled the holes with a 6011 stick, and welded it back on. Yesterday I picked up some angle and I'm going to find a creative way to weld it under the bracket for more strength.

Softball tonight, but I'm hopeful I'll get the seat belts and cage on the other cart beforehand. If all goes well, I MAY get around to welding that angle on tomorrow. More ball on Thurs, so it'll probably be Friday at the soonest before the motor is back on. Fingers crossed, this is the last time I take it back off.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I grinded the old welds off, filled the holes with a 6011 stick, and welded it back on. Yesterday I picked up some angle and I'm going to find a creative way to weld it under the bracket for more strength.

Softball tonight, but I'm hopeful I'll get the seat belts and cage on the other cart beforehand. If all goes well, I MAY get around to welding that angle on tomorrow. More ball on Thurs, so it'll probably be Friday at the soonest before the motor is back on. Fingers crossed, this is the last time I take it back off.

If you build it, with the mind set of a 300lb man with a 10ft pry bar, trying to rip the motor plate off. I promise you it will be strong enough,

 

[joshw0000]

If you build it, with the mind set of a 300lb man with a 10ft pry bar, trying to rip the motor plate off. I promise you it will be strong enough,

That's pretty much what I'm going for.

 

[joshw0000]

Ok, this project is going to be slightly delayed, but for good reason. I had messaged a guy about a Fox Vortex a while back that was posted reasonably cheap and he finally messaged back yesterday. He was close so I figured it wouldn't hurt to go look. The thing looked great. Paint is great, seats aren't bad, it's been Predator 212 hemi swapped, with retractable seat belts, but he was having issues with the brakes, and his daughter burned herself on the exhaust so it needed to go. It has sat since last Sept. I also noted that all 4 tires were worn and one wasn't even seated to the rim. I couldn't test it but we fired it and played with the throttle while holding it up. It's a little rough, may need a new carb, but otherwise runs good. Oil looks OK, no gunk in the gas tank, air filter OK, it has 60/10 gearing with a cover to protect the lower gears from hitting the ground. I really like how the motor mount is set up. The chain can be adjusted by turning a couple nuts on a bolt.

So now we negotiate. I low balled at $200 fully expecting him to come back much higher. He accepted under 2 conditions.... I must take the Subaru engine that came off of it (which may or may not run) + 2 extra T/C belts, and promise to give it a good home with kids that will enjoy it. How could I say no?!?!?

So last night, I finished the Yerf Dog. It's 100% kid ready. Then I started tinkering with the new one. I turned the pull cord so it's easier to crank, adjusted the brakes which I believe will fix the issue he had, drilled the governor lever and moved it to the far right, checked the spark plug (it's good), backed off all of the parental knobs (gas pedal and motor throttle stops), lubed the seat rail so it'll slide freely, adjusted the chain, and generally wiped it down. When I looked at the time it was midnight so I desperately need to go to bed.

To do list for the new cart - remove oil sensor and run a kill switch, swap tires for the better ones off the original cart, swap new/upgraded T/Q parts off the old one to this one (driver, driven, belt), add Sea Foam to the gas tank, and take her for a test run to see what she can do. Obviously I'll turn it back down some but I feel good knowing that both kids will have a cart to ride this weekend that they should be able to abuse without concern, and I can easily turn up if they prove that they're responsible enough. I forgot to take pics but I'll do that tonight. I also ordered a new carb just in case the Sea Foam doesn't make it purr like I want.

Back to this cart...now the pressure is off to finish it fast so I can take my time in welding more supports and making the motor mount super strong. I may or may not replace the worn tires and stock T/Q parts that now belong to this cart. Once it's 100% ready to handle abuse I can decide which toy needs to go. One has to go under wife's orders as I've spent a lot of money lately on carts and parts. I believe my oldest daughter is too tall now for this one or the new one so likely the Yerf will be hers with occasional loans to Dad. So.... most likely this cart will get rehomed. And honestly the mini bike is fun, but won't hang with the carts as it can't turn well going fast. So I may end up selling both to find a cart for myself.

If it's not obvious from my recent posts, I'm enjoying this. I really do appreciate all of the help you guys have given me and look forward to giving back to the community as much as I can.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

You really got the bug! Let’s end this incredible thread with a bang.