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Simon Thomas

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I re-positioned the bearing units from top of frame to underneath the frame.

Not a great view to see :oops:as you can see lots my working stuffs are scatterred all over the place. Infact this is the real looks when works were in progress.
 

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landuse

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Not a great view to see :oops:as you can see lots my working stuffs are scatterred all over the place. Infact this is the real looks when works were in progress.

Ha ha. My work area gets just as bad as that, even worse. The one thing I hate is packing up at the end of the day. I have to gather everything together and put it back in its place. Because I work in my carport, I have to pack everything back in the garage at the end of the day.

You work fast Simon. Things are really starting to come together. I hope this new setup works for you, and the forces on the shortened axle pieces fixed to the wheels is not too much. Time will tell though.

If this works, you will have come up with an entirely new way to assemble a drivetrain. I really like your ingenuity.
 

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I connected the 2 wheel rods with my modified connector adapted from universal joint mechanism.
 

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Simon Thomas

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ha nice job loking good

are u going to support the back axle frame?

The axle is supported by 3 pairs of bearing (6 bearings overall) under the frame which is not clearly seen from top of the frame.

All the axle parts (in 3 portions) are connected with something similar to the "universal joint". Wikipedia has a good ilustration on how the system works at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint
 

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Simon Thomas

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Ha ha. My work area gets just as bad as that, even worse. The one thing I hate is packing up at the end of the day. I have to gather everything together and put it back in its place. Because I work in my carport, I have to pack everything back in the garage at the end of the day.

You work fast Simon. Things are really starting to come together. I hope this new setup works for you, and the forces on the shortened axle pieces fixed to the wheels is not too much. Time will tell though.

If this works, you will have come up with an entirely new way to assemble a drivetrain. I really like your ingenuity.

Landuse, we have something in common like packing back our working stuffs after work done at the end of the day.

Just want to try something new:biggrin5:. I believe if not pushed too much to the limit, this system can be used. I have done simple test to the rear axle setup by standing (and even jumping) on it to test the durability. So far, I am satisfied with this setup.

However only time would tell how long it can last (refer to the joint).
 

TeamCheap

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For fun get it out in the open and turn the steering wheel all the way to one side then go to the back and push it around in a circle.

Make sure the steering stays turned all the way.It will either feel like its binding up or the inside rear wheel will slip a little.

I still dont see any type of differential to relieve the stress's applied when turning it will work fine in slippery conditions but traction area's will tear it apart.

When you start running it it will break at one of the U-joints you added or possibly a hub.

You need some way of compensating the rear tires for the rolling distance when you corner.

The easiest way would be to have two belts (1 to the left tire and the other to the right tire) and engage the second one when you need the added traction in loose/muddy conditions.

Atleast you get to work on your project I cant wait to get out in my garage and start doing some fun stuff.
 

Simon Thomas

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For fun get it out in the open and turn the steering wheel all the way to one side then go to the back and push it around in a circle.

Make sure the steering stays turned all the way.It will either feel like its binding up or the inside rear wheel will slip a little.

I still dont see any type of differential to relieve the stress's applied when turning it will work fine in slippery conditions but traction area's will tear it apart.

When you start running it it will break at one of the U-joints you added or possibly a hub.

You need some way of compensating the rear tires for the rolling distance when you corner.

The easiest way would be to have two belts (1 to the left tire and the other to the right tire) and engage the second one when you need the added traction in loose/muddy conditions.

Atleast you get to work on your project I cant wait to get out in my garage and start doing some fun stuff.

TeamCheap, I only could tell you the result of this build after putting all the parts:cheers2:. Last weekend, I managed to put the brake system.

Left is only the engine, seat etc.
 

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I started last weekend's works with adding the safety pin to the rear axle. Then, I installed the brake system.
 

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Simon Thomas

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It is sometime quite challenging to get the most ideal location for putting the brake. So a few times I turned the frame at various positions like these. It also helped me to get the ideal angle to do the welding works etc.
 

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landuse

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Hey Simon, Could you maybe take a closer picture or two of the brake attachment method? Did you weld a metal strip onto the frame to bolt the caliper on? Did it warp a bit when welding, and the caliper was out of place a bit?
 

Simon Thomas

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Hey Simon, Could you maybe take a closer picture or two of the brake attachment method? Did you weld a metal strip onto the frame to bolt the caliper on? Did it warp a bit when welding, and the caliper was out of place a bit?

Landuse, I will get the closer pictures this evening for you.

Answer to your question: Yes, I welded 2 metal strips onto the frame to bolt the brake caliper on. It did not warp when welding (which I learned from 1st build if not done correctly and patiently) because I attached the caliper on the 2 metal strip and tacked weld them first. With this method, it helped me to put them together in good shape. Then I removed the caliper, and weld the metal strip base as tick as possible. I laid a piece of metal strip at the base (holding the 2 metal strip) as well to hold it harder. If not putting a piece of metal strip at the base, I worry the brake caliper will peel off from the poor base holding.
 

Simon Thomas

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Well I love the look of it overall.

I can see problems with the driveline right now that will show up once you start to use it.

Agree with you TeamCheap on the driveline. This is my weak assembly here:roflol:. I should include more same type of universal joint mechanism here. Even now, it is still difficult to remove the universal joint from the driveline and this reflects it is not good enough.

Hope it won't give me problem later at slow speed. Only time would tell the result.
 

Simon Thomas

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Landuse,

The photos that you have requested. Let me know if I missed anything here. The display a bit odd this round, probably due to site maintenance.
 

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TeamCheap

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You dont need more U-joints or bearings all it really needs is a way to relieve stress on the driveline while turning but since you need good off road traction you need a simple way of powering both rear wheels when needed.

I still think a simple setup like this would work.

engine chain linked to a jack shaft on one side of the jack shaft you have a belt drive that is always engaged on the other side you have a lever that you can use to engage the other drive belt when needed in the loose soil conditions.

So for normal high traction driving it would only use and need one drive tire but for rough off road loose soil conditions you could drive both wheels.

What I'm thinking of is a very simple setup that should work well enough.
 
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