Ya using a jig really helps keep thing in order. The first time I didn't use the plywood jig all of my corners where off and nothing turned out right. Everythings better now that I used it.thats an awesome idea.. using a sheet of plywood and making your measurments then tapping in a nail to help hold and line everything up!
also, if you have a metal square, you can lightly clamp your parts to it while youtack em up..
or theres those magnetic angle thingies.. those look pretty slick.. 30, 90, and 120 all in one block.. different sizes etc..
I wouldnt mind getting some of those, but i would likely build most thigns outta round tubing and dont know how well they would work out for that![]()
Thanks. I'll do that when I get home.Measure from corner to corner diagonally ... if both measurements are equal, then it's square ...
True but I think I'm gonna stick with a 4 stoke gsxr 750 or a cbr600 engine. The welder is a millermatic 211 with autoset.You could even get a 2 stroke bike/quad engine. Is that a MM140 you're welding with?
Ooh! A GSXR motor will be nice.
Is that a nail in your last picture? It looks like welding wire!
Measure the complete frame (two square sections) diagonally, if its unequal, measure each square section; hopefully only one and not both will be out of whack.
Great job so far!
Have you put signifigant thought into the suspension design yet?
As far as arm length? Total travel? Bump steer?
Any ideas for the actual shocks? Bi pass? Coilovers?
Looks cool though!!
hi guys, new to the site, but not to karts! lol! love this thread man a gixxerbuggy is a awesome idea! check out this man......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R00uFu1Y9RY
That seat is actually just what im looking fori like the racing seats in that one.....an idea for ya...
the plastic ones at jegs.com are reasonably priced....
Thanks man! I haven't figured out exactly how long my a arms will be. They should be around 22 inches. The rear will have 14 inches of travel and the front should have 12-14 inches of travel. I was thinking of using an adjustable monoshock from a dirtbike for the front and possibly the rear. I havnt even thought of bump steer but I will accommodate into the design to get as little as possible.
man if you cleaned the area before ya weld it you would get a much better weld
Although its a little more work, id calculate geometry with unequal length a-arms, giving you a great camber change throughout articulation. Another thing is, if using long travel shocks, point the insides of the tops of the shocks together in the front, rather than straight up like all of these other idiots, giving you less bind on the shocks and potential for more travel, seems to be something youre going for with such long arms, good choice, same length arms we ran on the baja. also, design of your uprights, joice of tie rod ends, steering rack, alignment of kingpin and pivoting point of tie rod and a-arms will all factor into ruling out bumpsteer, if not taken into consideration and too short of tie rods are used, youll have bumpsteer. if you would wish, you can check out the sae baja cars in my albums, i think theyll help you out a little and if you need any help with suspension and or steering geometry, or really any of the engineering or design,d let me know, it is my specialty, as you may see from my engineering and fabrication on the cars. i have a few suggestions when it comes to your cage and chassis, but ill keep them to myself unless you want some hints haha. have fun with it and keep us posted!
oh and another thing, what are you planning on running as far as transmission, chaincase, clutch, cv axles, cv joints and outer hubs? i could help you get a hella amount of travel if you'd like, squeezed 28" of travel front and rear our of our baja with 19" of ground clearance and cv axle angularity to an amazing minimum, in only a 60" overall vehicle width.

28" of travel with 19" of ground clearance? how does that one work?![]()