Kaptain Krunch's Krappy Kreation

Status
Not open for further replies.

Kaptain Krunch

Pro Junk Collector
Messages
4,636
Reaction score
4
Location
vermont
I reset the hour meter back to 0 hours (not fun at all, so many little parts...), found out it wasnt even hooked up so its got 983 hours + a bunch more. I also starter to figure out the wiring, all the stupid gadgets and electronics make it confusing. Its got a 12v Rectifier on it, im not sure why they didnt just have a 2 sided magneto like briggs, one 12v ac unregulated for lights and one 12v dc 3 amp, for charging. Oh well.

The numbers arent centered perfectly but close enough, once its on they will start to move up.


Mess of wires...


The good ol rectifier...anyone notice rectifier kind of sounds like rectum?


Also good news on the front axle, its weldable so i'll fix that for now, until i finish the new axle.
 

Kaptain Krunch

Pro Junk Collector
Messages
4,636
Reaction score
4
Location
vermont
Well i got it going today, welded up the front end, cleaned the carb bowl, started right up after 5 minutes of trying to start it with the gas off :roflol:

I put the tranny back together, gonna get the whole thing together by tonight and see how she goes, just takin a lunch break.

The engine runs amazing, starts right up first crank, purrs at low idle then once you give it gas it just screams (for a mower that is, it goes from kitten to lion)
 

EagleTalons

Master JB Welder
Messages
1,100
Reaction score
5
Location
Forsyth, Montana
Well i got it going today, welded up the front end, cleaned the carb bowl, started right up after 5 minutes of trying to start it with the gas off :roflol:

I know what you mean! The on/off switch on the generator will almost always get me for at least 3 pulls. Till I remember that it has that...
 

Kaptain Krunch

Pro Junk Collector
Messages
4,636
Reaction score
4
Location
vermont
I spoke too soon, got it all back together and ran it for a bit and it started to surge, but not horribly so its running a little lean, ill clean the carb tomorrow. But shes nice, diff is locked properly and it will actually ripped the ground a little. So far the front end has held up, but it does look weak.
heres some pics.



Cant find the bolts for the seat, and there special ones with spacers :oops:

Welds on the front axle, they look horrible, but trust me there much worse than my normal welds, i think its because its cast steel (or cast iron?) and its really thick.
 

lemegacool

got boost? :)
Messages
804
Reaction score
1
Location
quebec canada
what are you welding with?... also cast iron is tricky to weld, a good procedure with 7018 electrode would be : pre heat the piece alot, weld at the lowest amp possibe, then post heat and wrap in a Asbestos (or something similar) cloth and let it cool for a long time... that way the weld will be less likely to crack...
 

Kaptain Krunch

Pro Junk Collector
Messages
4,636
Reaction score
4
Location
vermont
what are you welding with?... also cast iron is tricky to weld, a good procedure with 7018 electrode would be : pre heat the piece alot, weld at the lowest amp possibe, then post heat and wrap in a Asbestos (or something similar) cloth and let it cool for a long time... that way the weld will be less likely to crack...

I got a mig, but i have no gas so at the moment im running .035 flux core, cheaper brand too.
 

lemegacool

got boost? :)
Messages
804
Reaction score
1
Location
quebec canada
are you sure the welder is on the right polarity... if i remember correcly (it's been a long time i used self protecting fcaw) it should be set on negative torch (dc-) that could explain the exessive amount of splatter
 

Kaptain Krunch

Pro Junk Collector
Messages
4,636
Reaction score
4
Location
vermont
no the polarity is set right, it doesnt splatter like that on normal steel. This is also a very thick piece, and i only have a 110 welder. I'm sure the cheap wire also has something to do with it, but it has very little splatter on normal flatstock or tubing.
 

jr dragster T

New member
Messages
3,966
Reaction score
8
Location
Cold place
The weld looks a bit spattery but it might hold just for lawn cutting and such. I'd keep a close eye on it. I had to weld a cast cam the other day and it seemed to weld just fine?
 

newrider3

New member
Messages
1,674
Reaction score
5
Location
Colorado
You would definitely get better penetration and hold if you beveled the edges of the pieces before welding. Then you could run a hot root weld, and a few cap beads to level it off.
 

Raywelder

Not an Adm¡nistrator
Messages
760
Reaction score
0
You would definitely get better penetration and hold if you beveled the edges of the pieces before welding. Then you could run a hot root weld, and a few cap beads to level it off.

X2

Cast iron will weld ok If you get it hot.
but its still prone to crack.
 

Kaptain Krunch

Pro Junk Collector
Messages
4,636
Reaction score
4
Location
vermont
Got some of the steering parts, i got the 3/4 u joint from mcmastercarr, all i did was enter my name email and phone # and they sent it to me, havent sent me a bill either, so free u joint! the flange bearing was $10 off ebay with free shipping. I still need a pillow block or something for the top.




i also figured out why it wasnt charging, bad fuse.

I also cleaned the carb and its running better now, i still need to get it to idle a little lower and a little leaner, right now it bogs a little when you give it some throttle.
 

Kaptain Krunch

Pro Junk Collector
Messages
4,636
Reaction score
4
Location
vermont
Spindle brackets welded. There about 1/4" steal, think thats thick enough? gonna use 5/8" king pins, just havent drilled the holes yet (made a pilot on each, but dont have the 5/8 bit yet).


 

born loser

New member
Messages
29
Reaction score
0
check out surpluscenter.com for cheap engines, pillow blocks, shafts, sprockets, wheels, ujoints etc...
and check out harborfreights step drills. I got a couple sets for 7 bucks (for 3) and they have lasted a long time, and will bore out those holes you need really good.

That things gonna be a war wagon. LOL. Hide yer children!!
 

Kaptain Krunch

Pro Junk Collector
Messages
4,636
Reaction score
4
Location
vermont
I got the flange bearings from surplus center's ebay store. I tend to stay away from them because of their high shipping prices (its like $11 + for anything). I am going to have to get myself a good set of drill bits soon, but i think i'll go to sears because i have this membership thing that gets me really cheap tools there. I finished both the spindle brackets, just need to get the DOM tube and grade 8 bolts for king pins. I also cleaned out the front rims, and checked the bushings. The bushings are really worn, one is worn out 1/16", which is A LOT, but i said **** it and put them back in. I'm going to paint them at some point, I'm thinking red.
 

Kaptain Krunch

Pro Junk Collector
Messages
4,636
Reaction score
4
Location
vermont
Front end is almost done, I got the spindle brackets welded onto the front axle with around 5* of caster and KPI, its not perfect, but **** it, its close enough, im not gonna be racing or going 100mph anyways. I also started the gas pedal, i want it to turn out something like this, i know it wont look that nice but im working on it.


Its not cleaned off yet because im not actually done, i still have to weld up 2 more spots i'm just giving my welder a break, its only got a duty cycle of like 40 at full amps.

Theres the start on the gas pedal, its taking forever because i have no pilot bits left, so im using a cheap black&decker skill saw, with a masonry blade to do all my cutting and grooving. and my angle grinder only has like 2 inches of grinding wheel left.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top