Juggernaut clutch problems

[karl]

What does it do in rhe air free reving. Mine engages way to low for my liking. Around 2500 as they say. By 3000 its fully "closed" im trying to do the opposite basically as I rev to 7k. Any reason your are leavening the governor on?

Be curious to see your results. Wish i could get the sheaves to close up progressively. Seems like both pulleys are maxed out way to quickly.

I just tried it first on a governed engine, cause is was supposed to provide some improvement to a stock engine . Major Fail. Sorry for the confusion, two different bikes.

The video was an ungoverned engine with 22lb springs, 252 cam, and big block carb. It can spin 6k, we arnt too far off.

Im curious about how your setup is engaging so low? Is your driven spring well broke in or something? Have you taken the cover off your driver yet?

Anyways, after loosening the spring in my driven a step, and removing half the springs from the jug, it is preforming better. It still will not fully ramp up WOT down the road but very close, until you let off the gas and start engine braking.

I ordered a bigger sprocket for the torque converter jackshaft, so yeah. More testing.

https://youtu.be/rq-pycx9Eu8

^free air test with tach, sorry for poor vid lol, but this is with half the tension in the driver

 

[ForceFed86]

Says the video is private. ive had it off. not sure of anyway to adjust for a higher stall without additional parts. Bought a yellow spring for driven unit. Haven't installed yet. I tried drilling an extra hole on it even... still slams to full adjustment around 3k just like the driver.

Mild setup. Hemi shortblock, stock cam, non hemi head and no head gasket. 1.3 rockers. Exhaust, 22mm carb. We drag race to 300ft with a bunch of locals.

Nitrous isnt hooked up yet. Waiting on parts. Will throw hemi head and big HG on it when I do.

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=43549

 

[karl]

Says the video is private. ive had it off. not sure of anyway to adjust for a higher stall without additional parts. Bought a yellow spring for driven unit. Haven't installed yet. I tried drilling an extra hole on it even... still slams to full adjustment around 3k just like the driver.

Mild setup. Hemi shortblock, stock cam, non hemi head and no head gasket. 1.3 rockers. Exhaust, 22mm carb. We drag race to 300ft with a bunch of locals.

Nitrous isnt hooked up yet. Waiting on parts. Will throw hemi head and big HG on it when I do.

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=43549

Sorry, I meant to set it as unlisted, should work now
I hear ya, im running a gx200 head milled .040 with no gasket, on a hemi block. Id love to race ya if we were closer lol.

If your driven is working right, then the yellow spring should help you out. I have one, and its a pain to install. Its a bit stiffer.

But anyways if alll else fails, you can bent the tabs in the juggernaut to change the ramp, so if you bent the tabs up, the rollers will have a harder time opening the clutch up, I might try the opposite, bend them down some.

So yeah, good luck! Thanks for sharing.

 

[ForceFed86]

Odd got the correct spring on there and its horrible! Feels like I'm floating valves 5600 or so all of a sudden. Didn't get much time to play. Have some 22lbs springs on the way. What do you run?

 

[karl]

Odd got the correct spring on there and its horrible! Feels like I'm floating valves 5600 or so all of a sudden. Didn't get much time to play. Have some 22lbs springs on the way. What do you run?

Yeah I got 22lb springs in it, with an NR 252 rattlesnake cam, almost 13 to 1 compression.

No matter what I did, it still did not preform great, motor revving up way to high, and you go nowhere.

So I resorted back to the plain 30 series china driver, and put the yellow spring in the driven. The bike is easily twice as fast with this setup.
So that what imma do.

I guess the juggernaut makes a nice paperweight.

 

[ForceFed86]

Funny you mention that, That what I ran previously too. That yellow spring made a heck of a diff! I even tried the 20 series with the "bevel" on both sides of the sheaves thinking it would hold more power... It didn't. Figured this juggernaut was the answer... It's frustrating. I get even the quickest guys out of the hole the first 15ft or so... then get spanked. Throw a clutch on and I have the top end, but I'm a turd off the line like the rest of the clutch folk. Can't win! lol

good luck! let us know if you find any magic solutions. (so far the solution to being fast is 140-160lb riders!)

 

[Brianator]

Darned if you do and darned if you don't eh!? Lol. Keep at er man you'll figure it out!

 

[Kartorbust]

Anyone know what this driver clutch really is? Almost looks like an older design. I have my doubts that it's a new design. Did the packaging say anything?

 

[ForceFed86]

They hide it well, no markings of any sort. But I suspect your right.

 

[Kartorbust]

Found the answer. Guess it's a clone of the old Comet 340 but made for the asymmetric belts? Though the true 340 used symmetric belts. Hopefully this information is accurate, if not, I'll blame my ignorance, but here's my source. http://www.studzracing.com/product-p/juggernaut-.htm

 

[karl]

Found the answer. Guess it's a clone of the old Comet 340 but made for the asymmetric belts? Though the true 340 used symmetric belts. Hopefully this information is accurate, if not, I'll blame my ignorance, but here's my source. http://www.studzracing.com/product-p/juggernaut-.htm

I think your right, not an identical clone, but remarkably simular.

And not new at all.

Guess whats also rated at 8500rpm and is in current production, recommended for junior dragsters.
http://gtcmanufacturing.com/GTC-TC340-Gokart-Torque-Converter-1301.aspx
Might have to buy one, and run it with a symmetrical driven.

 

[vpd66]

The Comet 780 is a very similar clutch but is designed for higher HP engines(16-23). There are quite a few rollers and springs to adjust the 780.

 

[Kartorbust]

The 780/770/790 are only for up to 16hp 4 stroke and 30hp 2 stroke.

 

[vpd66]

The 780/770/790 are only for up to 16hp 4 stroke and 30hp 2 stroke.

Better tell the golf cart world that. They are using the 780 clutches on built 420 big block engines. That is where I got the horse power ratings.

 

[Kartorbust]

Some are using built 460 engines, 625cc, and the v-twins. GPS touts it as having a 30hp rating. Kind of seems like the ratings are arbitrary at times, not sure if the driver itself is the weak link or the belt. If it's a belt, then how is a 94c Duster rated for 40hp 4 stroke? Loosely discussed these issues in a thread I had started a while back, but I never really continued it any further, not a popular topic anyone wants to get into I suppose.

Anyway, best not to derail this thread any further.

 

[karl]

Better tell the golf cart world that. They are using the 780 clutches on built 420 big block engines.

The 30 series is only rated for 8hp.

The red 212cc definitely exceeds that, and my mud mower is running a 30 series , behind a 357cc clone with a milled head, timing advanced , genuine large port carb, header, ect.

The ratings are kinda conservative, to guarantee a good service life/ belt life.

"calculated risk" lol

 

[vpd66]

I'm sure the aftermarket world has tested these to certain horsepower levels and doesn't need to underestimate there horse power ratings. I still can't believe they would sell this Juggernaut clutch with no tuning parts available.

 

[karl]

I'm sure the aftermarket world has tested these to certain horsepower levels and doesn't need to underestimate there horse power ratings. I still can't believe they would sell this Juggernaut clutch with no tuning parts available.

Yeah, I was just speaking for comet's ratings

But gopowersports claims no adjustments needed! What gives? haha

Just buy it and ask questions later, right?

 

[karl]

good luck! let us know if you find any magic solutions. (so far the solution to being fast is 140-160lb riders!)

I found the best solution for my application,

Its really simple, and gives the regular 30 series driver the "high rpm" capabilities of the juggernaut , with the benefit of a clutch that actually works right, at a fraction of the cost.

I found a scrap of pipe with the same ID as the spacer bushing, but thicker wall. I made a thin spacer out of this, and installed it in place of the bronze bushing.

How this works is the spacer is now too big for the movable sheave to fit over, so the clutch works like normal until the sheave hits the spacer, locking you out of overdrive, and preventing the clutch from opening too far.

So now the bike has a great launch, and revs to 6000+ rpm for a higher top speed.

I hope this helps others, sure is alot cheaper than different solutions.

 

[vpd66]

I found the best solution for my application,

Its really simple, and gives the regular 30 series driver the "high rpm" capabilities of the juggernaut , with the benefit of a clutch that actually works right, at a fraction of the cost.

I found a scrap of pipe with the same ID as the spacer bushing, but thicker wall. I made a thin spacer out of this, and installed it in place of the bronze bushing.

How this works is the spacer is now too big for the movable sheave to fit over, so the clutch works like normal until the sheave hits the spacer, locking you out of overdrive, and preventing the clutch from opening too far.

So now the bike has a great launch, and revs to 6000+ rpm for a higher top speed.

I hope this helps others, sure is alot cheaper than different solutions.

My Monster Moto MB212 mini bike came with the same spacer installed in the drive clutch. Removing it got me an extra 5mph on the top end.