Issue with chain rubbing torque converter

[Ryanhodge2715]

Damn I didn’t even realize or think about that I only disconnected the green wire that seems to run to the kill switch that’s all. and now I am able to crank it without the key in it or turned… just that she is runnin!!!! Sounds like a totally new engine with muff an carb super thankful. But I’m guessing that wire must go to my ignition there is two green wires coming out up front one to kill a one to ignition. But bs aside dude y’all got no idea how happy I am thanks a million

Hmm well I say that nothing is working up front no light no kill or the key an all I gotta do is ground that green wire an it cuts off

 

[bob58o]

Hmmm. Like I said, electronicals are not my thing, but maybe there’s some kind of issue with the battery, light, ignition, kill switch… having a common ground when they should be isolated?

like the lights should go back to the battery negative instead of being grounded to frame or engine block?

Im not even sure if I’m making sense. I could just be talking out my a$s

also not sure if that voltage regulator needs to be bolted down to ground through the case?

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

AFU = all Fucƙed up
Fubar = ****eɗ beyond all repair

Seems likely and if you leave the kill disconnected you'll need to use the choke to shut down the engine instead.

You could reconnect the wires and disconnect the switch... that will tell you if it's the switch or wire too.
My guess is the switch got water in it

Sensei I have done as you said kill switch is not the issue I unplug my ignition and ground the wire as I did befor it cut off, and now she continues to run! Gotta be falty ignition

 

[Rat]

But this was my thinking on my throddle cable thing I know I probably better off buying full new cable but to get by I was thinking cutting the old one where this shorter one that come with the carb stops an just splice together with this lil clamp

I'm not sure that little clamp will hold... I think the cable will slip.
Impatience causes more problems than it solves and there's some things better off not modifying if you don't have to.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for cobbling together some one off parts and I've had to make and use cable splice plates.... for things they don't make cables long enough for in the first place.

 

[Rat]

Hmmm. Like I said, electronicals are not my thing, but maybe there’s some kind of issue with the battery, light, ignition, kill switch… having a common ground when they should be isolated?

Running isolated grounds can be done but it just means that many hundreds more ft of wire K.I.S.S. logic gets applied instead since ALL grounds lead to the chassis even without the battery installed

like the lights should go back to the battery negative instead of being grounded to frame or engine block?

Im not even sure if I’m making sense. I could just be talking out my a$s

also not sure if that voltage regulator needs to be bolted down to ground through the case?

Yes it does, and when mounted to non metallic surfaces ther require a ground wire bolted with them. There are a few that have a dedicated ground wire to the battery instead of a body contact ground but an ungrounded regulator will burn up and you end up with power going in but never coming back out... or worse a boiling battery that bloats and explodes because the fried regulator kept trying to charge at 15v after it was not needed

 

[Rat]

Sensei I have done as you said kill switch is not the issue I unplug my ignition and ground the wire as I did befor it cut off, and now she continues to run! Gotta be falty ignition

Explain you mean faulty key switch?

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Explain you mean faulty key switch?

Not sure what that is I say kill switch it the button up front to kill it a the ignition have a little harness that plugs up to the back of them. When i unplug the ignition grounding that cord is all good out when I plug it up it kills it so I geuss ignition went bad?

 

[Rat]

Not sure what that is I say kill switch it the button up front to kill it a the ignition have a little harness that plugs up to the back of them. When i unplug the ignition grounding that cord is all good out when I plug it up it kills it so I geuss ignition went bad?

That's not how that works at all.
If the ignition was bad it wouldn't matter WTF you do you'd have no spark.

Connect the wires and remove ONLY the wires directly on the kill switch.

Spark =switch bad
No spark =wires bad

FYI you mentioned a key (that's a key switch) and it has to be turned to the first click even if the electric starter is completely removed from the engine.... if you don't it acts like a kill.

 

[bob58o]

How does it start now?

 

[bob58o]

I was just curious because if the key switch wasn’t working, and there was no pull start recoil cover, and I don’t think he wrapped a cord around the flywheel…
I’m just wondering if it’s being hot wired?
I’m still confused.
I never saw a dash board switch in the photos.

EDIT:
This is the switch I never saw.
I guess it could be kill switch.
Makes more sense that a “toggle to start”.

It looks rusty but guessing that’s not the problem. I’d make sure a rusty connection isn’t causing the problems.

I use dielectric grease on outdoor connections that be get exposure to the elements. I’m not sure if smart, it’s just what I do.

 

[Rat]

I was just curious because if the key switch wasn’t working, and there was no pull start recoil cover, and I don’t think he wrapped a cord around the flywheel…
I’m just wondering if it’s being hot wired?
I’m still confused.
I never saw a dash board switch in the photos.

EDIT:
This is the switch I never saw.
I guess it could be kill switch.
Makes more sense that a “toggle to start”.

It looks rusty but guessing that’s not the problem. I’d make sure a rusty connection isn’t causing the problems.

I use dielectric grease on outdoor connections that be get exposure to the elements. I’m not sure if smart, it’s just what I do.
View attachment 145226

Right but the typical key switch for these engines ALSO acts as a kill switch in its off position

I haven’t messed with batter at all idk if it just needs a charge or it’s bad so I don’t mess with any of the electric start or kill switch just turning the key cuts it off was wondering why its there to be honest

Which is why that is precisely the problem

If you dont turn the key to the RUN position you can flip the kill toggle till your fingers fall off and yank the cord until you drop dead and will still never have spark!

Watch your language! We are kid friendly! If you don’t like it leave!

I'm not sorry that I don't kiss aṣses and I will NEVER sugarcoat anything for the sensetive lil snowflake people.

My statement remains about as factually as it is honest opinion and assessment of the situation at hand... there is no like or dislike about it.

Quite frankly I am of the mind that those who haven't a clue nor naturally occuring high mechanical aptitude should educate themselves before they start picking up tools.