Issue with chain rubbing torque converter

Rat

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It’s not a choke... it’s a fuel inrichment port. As in you pull the lever lifting the needle out of the port. That opens the port and vaccume (pushes)?? Raw fuel through the port. And closing the enricher allows the needle to drop into the port blocking it so no raw fuel flows through the port. View attachment 145144
I've already explained this and BTW not all of them use a needle like that, PWK for example uses a flat rubber stopper in the end of a brass piston
 

Rat

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This sucks man I’m sure it something I’m probably doing wrong not gonna have it fixed for the party today 🤦‍♂️ I’m wondering if the jets that come are to big maybe they need different size?
This is exactly where redrilling the Etube comes into play
 

Ryanhodge2715

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Yes sir seal is good now, an no no pump. But I did notice on the bottom there is another adjustment screw hiding on the under side of it guess ima try to play with these. What happens when I “flood” the engine do I just wait a while or is there somthing I should do?
 

Rat

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What happens when I “flood” the engine do I just wait a while or is there somthing I should do?
You can wait for it to drip down past the piston, or you can shut the gas off, pull the plug, and yank it a few times. You may or may not see a fuel mist exit the head but it will be clear in 3 pulls or less.

Unless you have what I had when I picked up my Ducar... it had rolled over with a full tank of gas and open petcock and intake valve so the entire cylinder was full as was the lower half the stock airbox... which you obviously don't lol
Should redrilling be necessary? I thought these things would ready to roll
Should be and actually are are not the same thing especially when altitude and ambient temps are dictating factors in fuel needs. You are also referring to an engine as it ships bone stock... not modified, not a custom exhaust, or intake, or carburetor, or port cleaning.


The pics are a relatively lean Etube, that I was using but had an excessively rich spot where the carb begins to transition from pilot jet to the main jet... I no longer use that stock type carb.

What makes it a leaner tube in part is the 20 air bleeds but only 2 small fuel holes instead of the typical 4
 

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Rat

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lol I know engine good we was just ripping it the other week,
BTW, that doesn't mean squat; if the valve lash changes it will be in a running engine. If the air gap wanders, it won't be while sitting still doing nothing either.

The REAL question is WHAT EXACTLY did you change between it running and now only flooding?

That therein lies a clue or probably the exact answer
 
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Ryanhodge2715

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Well somthing I didn’t mention it did sit “under my pourch completely out of weather” for about a week with no exhaust on it idk if condensation could be issue?? But I only installed a new gas tank muffler a the carb. My step dad “thinks he knows stuff” told me I wasn’t getting fire on my spark plug. What he said. but it’s brand new an like I say I took the old one off my other cart a still nothing. But I live in South Carolina so no crazy elevation
 

Ryanhodge2715

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Hey man an by the way I genuinely appreciate your patience with my dumb question an constantly responding. Means a lot brotha.
 

bob58o

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It’s possible there may be other issues.
There’s a lot that happened in this thread.

If everything else is good like valves are set correctly and you are getting spark,
then it’s possible the flywheel key has sheared off. If the flywheel key snapped, you could be getting spark but at the wrong time.

There may be other things I can’t think of right now that I might could if I were to put hands on it.

Do you know what size jets are in the carb?
What is stock jetting, something like 0.96mm or 1.02mm? What is your altitude? Near sea level, or a mountainous adventurer?
 

Rat

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An if it keeps flooding don’t drilling the jet out just add more fuel an make matters worse
Jet yes. E-tube No
THERE IS A DIFFERENCE

The E-tube is what you can see sticking up in the floor of the carb throat. It has air bleed holes up the sides, and a single set of fuel bleeds at the bottom near where the jet goes.

Some are press fit, some are threaded, ALL do the same thing, mix air with fuel as it's being pulled up to burn
 

bob58o

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Checking for spark is easy.
Pull the plug, reconnect the plug wire, lay the plug electrode near a bolt on the cylinder head. Try to start it.

you should see a spark jump the gap.
If you can’t see a spark, buy your step father a gift, then look into the ignition wiring.

also is there a low oil cut off switch still in operation?
 

Rat

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Checking for spark is easy.
Pull the plug, reconnect the plug wire, lay the plug electrode near a bolt on the cylinder head. Try to start it.

you should see a spark jump the gap.
If you can’t see a spark, buy your step father a gift, then look into the ignition wiring.

also is there a low oil cut off switch still in operation?
Lol I was actually starting to wonder the same thing but he said a few back he has spark and all signs say it's rich AF right down to gassy oil... does make me wonder if it's a compression issue. Maybe blew a ring
 

Ryanhodge2715

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Lol I was actually starting to wonder the same thing but he said a few back he has spark and all signs say it's rich AF right down to gassy oil... does make me wonder if it's a compression issue. Maybe blew a ring
I never said I had a spark I actually asked if it could be the spark plug that’s gotta be it no spark at all when taking it out but I never messed with any wiring at all not sure how something could have happened
 

Ryanhodge2715

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If it blew a ring wouldn’t that happen while running? It hasn’t ran since a week ago with original carb I only parked it bc gas tank was missing a bolt an rattled the port where it fastens to the tank till it sheard it off. So not like motor gave out or anything
 

Rat

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I never said I had a spark
could have sworn you had
I actually asked if it could be the spark plug
must have gotten lost in the sauce
that’s gotta be it no spark at all when taking it out but I never messed with any wiring at all not sure how something could have happened
To figure out if it's a kill problem just disconnect anything connected to the kill switch. All it takes is a connector to rattle partially apart and touch the engine or frame. If you still have no spark with all the kill switch wires disconnected then it would possibly be coil gap, or maybe the coil took on water or went bad some other way.
Coils don't go bad often, but they can and do eventually fail.

If you DO have spark, then check all the connections up to whatever switch you use (I hate push buttons, they love to get stuck) and go from there.
If nothing stands out its time to pull the flywheels

Look at it this way if the coil is bad then it's an excuse to get a Dover coil That will allow the engine the ability to rev above 4500rpm without the coil dragging it down.
 

bob58o

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Well let us know about the lightning.
The suspense is killing me.

if no spark, then maybe try to get some photos of the wiring.

I saw some battery and voltage regulator stuff where the wiring looked iffy.

I’m most interested in wires from spark plug, ignition coil, low oil sensor, and any ignition or kill switches.

Get us a picture of the spark plug. There’s a chance it’s fouled out. Might just need cleaned off. Maybe needs replacing. But if it’s not sparking, it’s probably wiring issue.
 

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Ryanhodge2715

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This is realllly outta my league now I’m so broke I can’t afford to pay no one to fix it feeling a little helpless at this point 😣 took a picture from each side but then wires look like a mess that’s for sure but there is so much going on I doubt y’all can guide me much
 

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