Issue with chain rubbing torque converter

[Ryanhodge2715]

So I’m sure this isn’t how I should go about it but was gonna just put this washer behind pulley or would it be best to some how get behind the sprocket itself

 

[Rat]

So I’m sure this isn’t how I should go about it but was gonna just put this washer behind pulley or would it be best to some how get behind the sprocket itself

Considering the direction things keep moving I'd say behind the sprocket is safer.
I've had a sprocket decide to snag and try to walk a chain up a washer so it seems safer to put it opposite of known travel.

I still think replacing the chain is a smart choice due to uneven strain and consequential stretch.

You should try flipping the chain direction just to see if things start trying to walk the opposite direction. If they do my theory is then 100% a factual issue and a chain isn't throwing crap at the wall to see what sticks

 

[BrownStainRacing]

So I’m sure this isn’t how I should go about it but was gonna just put this washer behind pulley or would it be best to some how get behind the sprocket itself

You need smaller washers or shims to go between the sprocket and the bearing to align the both sprockets, then put the chain on.

Make sure the washers or shims are smaller (outside diameter) then the inner race of the bearing. If it too big, it could rub against the outer race and cause a drag, which will over heat the bearing.

Look closely here and you can see only 2 shim between the sprocket and bearing. Thats all it took for me to line this 1 up.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

I be dog see all this new for me I just assumed what I’m doing shouldn’t be necessary an I was winging it appears I’m not only one that had to do this huh makes me feel better about it an washer is huge but it matches nicely with the mount that’s holding the shaft going threw the sprocket

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I be dog see all this new for me I just assumed what I’m doing shouldn’t be necessary an I was winging it appears I’m not only one that had to do this huh makes me feel better about it an washer is huge but it matches nicely with the mount that’s holding the shaft going threw the sprocket

That's good for testing. But get smaller shims or it will over heat the bearing.

Now look and make sure the pulleys are inline so the belt stays straight. It will not last long if it is crooked.

Use a straight edge against the back halves to make sure they are straight with each other, I use a flat file.

If they are not inline, use 3/4" shims on the crank to move the smaller pulley over. Make sure the bolt has plenty of threads going into the crank, to hold the smaller pulley on.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Ok an yeah it def worked no issue with chain scraping now an I got 3/4 washer but it has about 1/8 of play on the shaft taking my other apart it actuall has one made for axel with the notch out for the shaft. On that’s on there now I figured would have locked down in place but it is actuall loose I can freely spin it but it’s spacing it so I guess I’m ok for now.
But now I am no longer fighting that like I say it don’t seem to have the power it did befor I know motor strong enough to engage clutch that can’t be issue but it just don’t seem to stretch out like it should

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Ok an yeah it def worked no issue with chain scraping now an I got 3/4 washer but it has about 1/8 of play on the shaft taking my other apart it actuall has one made for axel with the notch out for the shaft. On that’s on there now I figured would have locked down in place but it is actuall loose I can freely spin it but it’s spacing it so I guess I’m ok for now.
But now I am no longer fighting that like I say it don’t seem to have the power it did befor I know motor strong enough to engage clutch that can’t be issue but it just don’t seem to stretch out like it should

That washer is too big and pressing on the jaskshaft housing, that why it won't pull.

Post more pics of it together.
you lost me, with the 1/8" play and freely spin deal.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

I put the clutch off other an she was hauling *** but Stg I’ve been casing my tail with this damn thing I fix one thing an another brakes the whole tire just shot off on me the axle just broke

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Thank god I was driving an not my son how tf does this even happen the nut is sank tight on there too not like it was loose

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

That washer is too big and pressing on the jaskshaft housing, that why it won't pull.

Post more pics of it together.
you lost me, with the 1/8" play and freely spin deal.

When I say play it is freely sittin there it can spin an I can actually wiggle the spacer almost as if my sprocket is holding itself where it needs to be now an that spacer is just freely sitting there with no pressure on it at all

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I put the clutch off other an she was hauling *** but Stg I’ve been casing my tail with this damn thing I fix one thing an another brakes the whole tire just shot off on me the axle just broke

That really sux.

I'd say it's been cracked for a while. Then you got power to it and it let go.

They can take a couple good licks from stumps, boulders and such, but they will break.

That axle is not too much, but you should replace the bearings and inspect all the other parts while you have it out.

 

[Rat]

Snapped the dpline end right off damn!

We've ALL been there; fix a few things, and boom that was enough to break the next weakest link in the chain.
Fix that and something else let's go...eventually enough has been consecutively replaced or reworked that there's nothing left to break.

Imaging having that happen in a full size truck (2000 Ram Laramie) going 40. Except it's a front wheel that flew off because you used a factory steelie spare out of no other option and the level of rot allowed the lugs to work loose.

The blacktop got the worst end of the damage! It took 3 jacks to get the lower A-arm off the deck to properly position a 3rd to put on the factory aluminum with a fresh tire, and roadside beating to knock bent lugs out for new.
It was all good... minus the 50ft cut left in the freshly redone asphalt surface

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Yeah man ima fully understand go carts by the time I get this sucker going right lol. I will probably be back when I do get the axel in. But per se that bolt was lil loose a there was small amount of play in back tires I imagine that jarring could cause that as well right?

 

[Rat]

Yeah man ima fully understand go carts by the time I get this sucker going right lol. I will probably be back when I do get the axel in. But per se that bolt was lil loose a there was small amount of play in back tires I imagine that jarring could cause that as well right?

Maybe but unlikely. It certainly could have helped @BrownStainRacing said, most likely cracked for a while and it finally gave up the fight.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

I know in a ideal world two working carts is better then one supped up cart but the man in me couldn’t resist I bought new exhaust an knock off mikuni carb for my other cart still waiting on gas tank but although I should have got an axel for other any suggestions on how I should go about my throttle cable? It come with new cable with about 4 foot attached. I know I could look it up but I enjoy coming hear for more one on one advice

 

[Rat]

I know in a ideal world two working carts is better then one supped up cart but the man in me couldn’t resist I bought new exhaust an knock off mikuni carb for my other cart still waiting on gas tank but although I should have got an axel for other any suggestions on how I should go about my throttle cable? It come with new cable with about 4 foot attached. I know I could look it up but I enjoy coming hear for more one on one advice

Depends on the pedal set up (fully cable, or rod to cable)
Ideally you want it routed as straight to the carb as possible and any bends needed should be loose and sweeping. Tight bends cause excessive drag on the cable, and too tight causes binding.

If its full cable and 4ft isn't enough reach you have 2 options I know of;
1) get a new cable and solder on brass the ferule tips.

2) [the more labor intensive cheat] weld a pair cable stops to the frame for the conduit with a large gap between them, then use a small narrow steel plate to pinch bolt splice the original cable to the new one using small bolts with a hole through just below the head, and cut the conduit and cables shorter as needed to fit the space.
I prefer to make my stops from a nut so I can use a barrel adjuster through them to fine tune the tension as much as needed.
I'm not sure if your governor is still intact, you need to completely remove all of its components to use that carb because you cannot have both and a simply disabled/ bypassed governor can and usually does become a disaster; plastic gear explodes tossing the steel flyweights wherever and next ya know you've bombed the engine

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Yeah that was my next question regarding the choke so just pull that out.. and it’s all cable

 

[Rat]

Yeah that was my next question regarding the choke so just pull that out.. and it’s all cable

You can probably figure out a way to use a "push pull" for like a riding lawn mower throttle/choke. Or if you wanna get fancy Advanced and Autozone usually has aftermarket automotive choke cable kits which is essentially the same thing just prettier and way more expensive.

You'd probably need some form of spring to assist opening the choke back up because push pulls can be a stiff pain and anything to help it not bind and kink will be better in the long run.

I think they might make a "remote choke" for those carbs; I do know for a fact they make one for Keihin PWK because they use an enrichment port to dump fuel, not an actual choke mechanism to restrict air

 

[Rat]

This is what I mean by a pinch bolt splice.

I'm working with what I already have on hand for a project, using a lot of Rat Rod ingenuity to make parts from junk and scraps as needed.

I'll get a proper replacement cable for that later

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Ehhh chokes no big deal for me I pull start the thing anyhow so I can just use my hand a perfect that’s exactly what I was lookin for. Imagine I can find those at average part stores?