Issue with chain rubbing torque converter

[Ryanhodge2715]

I got maybe 1/4 but that’s pushing pretty hard to get it gonna losses it up more but yeah seem to me in my head I had brake caliper loose when I slid hub to the right the tighten it an I’m sure that just put tension an pulled back to the left

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

So even though it’s wanting to pull itself to the left as if that’s seems to be where it should rest. Slide hub back an drill an use locking collars to force it to stay? I totally see it working but should it need to be forced in place if it is actually aligned

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

What’s your thoughts on me backing my engine mount bolt “not sure if that’s correct terminology “ an use washers to build out 1/4 or less to swing the back end of the motor to the left looking down the chain you can see the engine sprocket appears to be to the right

 

[Thepartsguy]

Now that you have the hub slid over can you space the torque converter sprocket out with a washer or two just a little bit? I still cannot tell if you even have room on the axle for locking collars to stop any shifting of the axle..

I feel like working the alignment out and fitting locking collars on each side of the sprocket hub will solve the original problem. Then locking collars on the axle to keep it from shifting. And a genuine comet belt Installed correctly. As I said a few laps around the field and it shifts again.. (Called it)

 

[Denny]

Let’s think about this logically for a second. Is the cart always making left hand turns or mostly left turns? That’s why the axle keeps getting pushed over. What I would do if I was you is go to the hardware store. Buy a piece of pipe big enough to slide over the axle and cut me 2 spacers to go between the bearings and wheels and slide them on. No way will that axle ever move over again! And oil that chain!

 

[Rat]

What’s your thoughts on me backing my engine mount bolt “not sure if that’s correct terminology “ an use washers to build out 1/4 or less to swing the back end of the motor to the left looking down the chain you can see the engine sprocket appears to be to the right

You could totally shim the sprocket out IF NEEDED

Right now You NEED to either figure out why it keeps moving, or just focus on making it not be able.

If you try to correct the alignment issue by shimming the drive sprocket on an axle that moves itself... youll likely end up with those bolt heads locking up against the frame and doing real damage that will at the very least be a PITA to fix, and worst case be an expensive repair with parts being replaced.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Went to my local Simpson hard got lock-in collet didn’t know it would split apart ima have to tak my whole axel off to get on, an the castle nut that hold my tire on does not have a Carter pin in it to prevent it from backing off so u tryed wedging a adjustable wrench an break it but that sucker is stuck gonna have to try an borrow a big half inch drill to brake I’m very limited on tools right now. Thinking ima just add a spacer behind my driven pulley to get away until I can get locking collar on. I got a 1 inch diameter but thinking that axel bigger wonder where else be good to check for locking collars

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

To my untrained eyes the way my rotor is align with the break caliber which is not adjustable id think wedging the engine sprocket out to match gotta be the answer but just not sure why I should have to something’s got banged outa place or somthing ya know

 

[Rat]

To my untrained eyes the way my rotor is align with the break caliber which is not adjustable id think wedging the engine sprocket out to match gotta be the answer but just not sure why I should have to something’s got banged outa place or somthing ya know

If there's no movement on the brake rotor then the axle can't be moving around and the rear end is just not even... even if the wheelbase is centered under the chassis.

Shim it out then

 

[Denny]

Read my post!

 

[Rat]

Read my post!

I did... but the thing is that if the axle is actively moving, then it wouldn't just be a sprocket alignment problem, the brake rotor would be getting pushed into the pads and trying to force the caliper over. Once the maximum floating distance of the caliper was reached there would be excessive drag, a horrible grinding noise coming from the pad and rotor, and that all assumes that that the bolts in the rotor don't go gnawing at the frame first.

He said the brake rotor is still perfectly aligned... so let's think about that a sec. Yeah?
Brake rotor is, was, and has been aligned despite any axle offset. sprocket carrier "moved" after being realigned... brake still aligned.

Clearly the axle isn't moving the carrier is. Personally with that info I return to drilling a divot for the set screw after some careful alignment sorting.

ON THE OTHERHAND, depending on how long the chain was being strained at the original angle we were shown, and how much riding on it was done... it is very likely the chain is just stretched out to that shape making it want to be at that angle instead if straight like it should be.

Replacing the chain before getting too inventive would probably be best.

 

[bob58o]

I don’t read a lot of posts. I like the pictures.

One half of brake rotor is rusty, other half is shiny.

So I think there is at least one place where the things that are supposed to be perpendicular are not so perpendicular.

Have we checked axle for straightness?
Is the sprocket / rotor thing bent up or cracked? Could a toasted bearing next to the rotor cause such a problem?

Bent axles are not run. Not saying you have one, but I don’t think I want to hammer out old bent axles any more. I hurt my self by reaching for my tv remote.

Something is crooked like a question mark, but Dr said he could make it straight as an arrow.

 

[bob58o]

Beans!

Is this a crack/cut?

 

[Denny]

Ok, I’ll just go away then.

 

[bob58o]

Ok, I’ll just go away then.

Florida? January near the Great Lakes can be brutal. I slipped on ice and did a Charlie Brown fall in the parking lot a few days ago. Landed flat on my back. I thought I broke a rib, but xrays didn’t find any fractures.

Coughed today while sitting leaning forward, something near my rib popped so hard and hurt so bad. Since then it keeps popping. I can barely move.
If it’s not broken, there got to be some kind of knot right under the rib? Or a dislocated rib? I’m not really sure what a popped rib is?

 

[Rat]

Coughed today while sitting leaning forward, something near my rib popped so hard and hurt so bad. Since then it keeps popping. I can barely move.
If it’s not broken, there got to be some kind of knot right under the rib? Or a dislocated rib? I’m not really sure what a popped rib is?

I had a cracked rib that I finished breaking with a violent series of sneezes that just wouldn't quit. Between the pop in my lower left side and the inability to even breathe for the sneezing alone I nearly passed out.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

I don’t read a lot of posts. I like the pictures.

One half of brake rotor is rusty, other half is shiny.

So I think there is at least one place where the things that are supposed to be perpendicular are not so perpendicular.

Have we checked axle for straightness?
Is the sprocket / rotor thing bent up or cracked? Could a toasted bearing next to the rotor cause such a problem?

Bent axles are not run. Not saying you have one, but I don’t think I want to hammer out old bent axles any more. I hurt my self by reaching for my tv remote.

Something is crooked like a question mark, but Dr said he could make it straight as an arrow.View attachment 144869

Ain't nothing wrong with that junker.

It's the most used and abused piece of crap in the neighborhood.

It's still got the factory axle, bearings, swing arm bushings, brake rotor, motor mount bushings, brake caliper and sprocket on it.

It has never throwed a chain, in the 6 years we've had it.

I let a couple neighborhood boys borrow it for 2 days last week while I did brakes, tires and bearings on thier dingo. It needed a good thrashing on it anyways.

It does have a lil run out on the left side of the axle,( been flipped and rolled a few times), but I dont let the grandson on the hard road with it any more. It stays on the trails and gravel roads.

If the OP would shim that jackshaft sprocket over to line up with the axle sprocket, all his problems would be solved.

The only way that axle can move side to side, is if both bearings are completely shot, then they would be so noisy, there would be no way to not hear them.

There's shoulders on the axle that goes against the inside, inner races of the bearings, once the bearing casees are bolted to the frame, the axle cannot walk side to side.


It a very simple fix.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Beans!View attachment 144870

Is this a crack/cut?

View attachment 144871

Nope it doesn’t look like it. Looks more like a shoulder or a milled down area for a hub to slide onto.

 

[Denny]

Spacers between the wheel and bearings should take care of the axle moving. But hey what do I know?

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

My axel is not moving guys I mean it may have over use from previous owner but seems to be locked down well the hub slid its way back over not the axel I only mention it looks shifted bc I figured befor I lock anything down maybe it should be aligned first but it is not just freely moving