Issue with chain rubbing torque converter

[Rat]

That bolt head I circled clears that medal by half inch on my good one . Not sure that pic any better but it is to the left to far An with the sprocket need to go to the right as well it looks to me like hole thing needs to move over.. but my tires are already close to the frame so that why I was wondering if sprocket is adjustable

I'm pretty sure those bolts should be "button head" and not basic socket cap.

It also looks like the whole engine mount is adjustable to me, but I can be sure without more pics from different angle including the front of the engine. It could just be the engine is mounted on a hinge and only moves up and down to tension/loosen the chain, or it could somehow be hinged and a slider.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Thanks fellas I won’t let y’all down but I am gonna procrastinate until I’m off to mess with it. But yes see like adjusting the motor it self simple thought I just wouldn’t have thought it could move. It may be obvious an easy to y’all but me not knowing how ANY of this works is different ball park. An the simple suggestion yall give really help a lot. Gives me a check list to go through. I won’t let y’all down! I’ll post update probably Friday! But you may be right about the bolts not sure what’s what but I know those bolts take a Allen wrench to remove.. tryed doing by hand they are in there stupid tight think ima need impact to remove.

 

[Thepartsguy]

That brake disk and sprocket are bolted together on the hub bolts right? And it’s all slid onto the axle? The key locks the brake/sprocket hub to the axle but does not stop side to side movement.

Use split locking collars on each side of the sprocket/brake hub or weld the hub to the axle and welding is a no no.. Either there is nothing stopping side to side movement of the brake/sprocket hub. Or the whole axle has shifted. If it’s welded into place unweld it.

Once it’s aligned again use split collars on everything.

 

[Rat]

That brake disk and sprocket are bolted together on the hub bolts right? And it’s all slid onto the axle? The key locks the brake/sprocket hub to the axle but does not stop side to side movement.

Use split locking collars on each side of the sprocket/brake hub or weld the hub to the axle and welding is a no no.. Either there is nothing stopping side to side movement of the brake/sprocket hub. Or the whole axle has shifted. If it’s welded into place unweld it.

Once it’s aligned again use split collars on everything.

That's what I was thinking... whomever had it apart last didn't take care to align things properly before locking down the torque, or they aligned but forgot to lock it down which is why I suggested measuring the rim to rim width, divide by 2, them measure and mark the subchassis for axle center and then see if that matches up with the chassis center.

No match, the axle is off; if it matches then either the carrier is off, the engine need a scootch, or both.

It needs closer inspection but it seriously looks like the entire engine mount can be slid over as well.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

That brake disk and sprocket are bolted together on the hub bolts right? And it’s all slid onto the axle? The key locks the brake/sprocket hub to the axle but does not stop side to side movement.

Use split locking collars on each side of the sprocket/brake hub or weld the hub to the axle and welding is a no no.. Either there is nothing stopping side to side movement of the brake/sprocket hub. Or the whole axle has shifted. If it’s welded into place unweld it.

Once it’s aligned again use split collars on everything.

yes sir they are it appears to be able to slide just lookin at it may be the Chain being so tight it’s locked down but like I say all I see is bolts holding sprocket an axel no nut or anything on hub it self I found a YouTube video of a guy doing a new axel assembly on a hammer head Style frame which almost looks Identical an hub was fixed in place an he slid the sprocket an rotor on to bolt to it, so def got to be axel shifted. An the way both my pulleys look like there bent down could be from how tight the chain was locked down. I’m pretty sure the axel itself has something where it goes threw the frame on each side where tires mount that holds it only thing I can think, maybe it could be simple as breaking loose from frame give it a kick an lock back down.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

yes sir they are it appears to be able to slide just lookin at it may be the Chain being so tight it’s locked down but like I say all I see is bolts holding sprocket an axel no nut or anything on hub it self I found a YouTube video of a guy doing a new axel assembly on a hammer head Style frame which almost looks Identical an hub was fixed in place an he slid the sprocket an rotor on to bolt to it, so def got to be axel shifted. An the way both my pulleys look like there bent down could be from how tight the chain was locked down. I’m pretty sure the axel itself has something where it goes threw the frame on each side where tires mount that holds it only thing I can think, maybe it could be simple as breaking loose from frame give it a kick an lock back down.

Your buggy is very similar to my grandsons American sportworks vector.

Same jackshaft, sprocket, disc hub, the axle has the square side with a bolt and lock nut so the hub dont spin.

That should be an easy fix.
Jus shim the jackshaft sprocket to line up with the axle sprocket, then shim the driver to the driven so the belt stays straight. Your jackshft is plenty long enough. My Grandsons is shorter, but the nut has never came loose.

When you get every thing shimmed and inline, make sure the driven doesn't get into the brake disk when it goes into high.

You might need a longer chain and raise the engine plate higher for the driven to clear the disc.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Looking at Denny’s photos i see a set screw that would stop everything from sliding on the axle by hand. Loosen this set screw on yours and give it a tap? unless yours doesn’t have this. Set screws do sort of work. Meaning you can‘t move the hub woth the sets screw down by hand. But get out into a field and the set screws WILL allow things to shift.

the Set screws are just there to lock everything lightly before you install split locking collars.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Wow lol I’m pretty sure Ida seen eventually man I peeked at it for a second but just parked it since I got one running I did not even try to roll it when I looked jezzzz I gotta lay off the stuff. Sorry for the wasted time everyone this one will go down in history as one of man’s bigger fails

 

[Thepartsguy]

Right so how should I go about alignment? Is the base the sprocket is mounted to adjustable?

this is a nice caveman way of explaining it. the ‘base’ I’ll remember that for future explanation. As we found out the base is adjustable.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Is there even room to install locking collars on that setup anywhere? That one set screw is supposed to hold everything??? I wouldn’t trust that as far as I could throw it and would get to modifying. Split locking collars are a must. On my streakers the whole axle with four bearing hangers and all hubs has 12 locking collars holding everything in place.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Not to sure don’t know what split collars are have to look up but I do have an will have many more questions obviously along the way
Like my driver clutch how to spot if it’s bad the guy gave me a extra the one on it had so much rubber melted to it I switched it to the fresher lookin one an when we floor it the thing studders for a sec then kicks in finally after about 5 6 seconds an halls *** open it an springs look good an everything intact I Ran some carb cleaner in it had lil dust an greased the sliding shaft in it an still hesitant. Guess I need new driver clutch ?

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Is there even room to install locking collars on that setup anywhere? That one set screw is supposed to hold everything??? I wouldn’t trust that as far as I could throw it and would get to modifying. Split locking collars are a must. On my streakers the whole axle with four bearing hangers and all hubs has 12 locking collars holding everything in place.

That axle has shoulders on it.
Once the bearings cases are bolted to the frame, the axle can't walk side to side. No need for lock collars for that axle.

Thats a allen head bolt with a nut on it to lock the hub to the axle, I havnt touched it in the 6 yrs I've owned it, it's a 2016 model.

It might have a hit or 2 on it, .
It might jus take a briggs to break it,

The bolt and lock nut is there to lock the hub to the axle so it don't spin. It don't move, and won't move unless some dummy unlocks it. It's really a very simple stupid idea.

The rotor lines the axle and every thing else jus falls in place.

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[Rat]

Not to sure don’t know what split collars are have to look up but I do have an will have many more questions obviously along the way

Split collars are what the sound like... a metal ring with a split, and screw that make it pinch in place against something you don't want walking along the shaft or even a bearing to keep the shaft from moving through it. (Not all axle shafts are stepped to shoulder against the bearing)

Like my driver clutch how to spot if it’s bad

the driver clutch doesn't exactly "Go bad" just certain parts wear out and it's not unheard of to have a broken garter spring in a Comet 30 type.

Like my driver clutch how to spot if it’s bad the guy gave me a extra the one on it had so much rubber melted to it

That is somewhat normal on a well used one, and if it's real bad on the sheave faces it's a sign of bad belt alignment, or use of cheap yak hair and bamboo fiber Chinese belts to quote @Denny 's frequent descriptions.

I switched it to the fresher lookin one an when we floor it the thing studders for a sec then kicks in finally after about 5 6 seconds an halls ***

That shudder could be a stretched and overly worn belt struggling to engage.
It could mean the driven need broken down, cleaned, inspected for flyweight wear, lubricated (graphite dry lube only) and reassembled.

open it an springs look good an everything intact I Ran some carb cleaner in it had lil dust an greased the sliding shaft in it an still hesitant. Guess I need new driver clutch ?

That was a mistake if it was on the machine with the belt.

Any grease or oil on the belt makes problems which is why they use graphite dry lube only.

Having flushed out some of the graphite (or grease if it was improperly lubricated) is going to make it self destruct if you try to drive on it like that.
They get hot enough from friction properly lubricated the added stress of dry metal on metal friction is going to be 4× hotter and fatal for the part

 

[Denny]

Make sure you use Genuine Comet Belts! The cheap belts will melt and cause all kinds of problems including shudder upon engaging. Like said earlier Do Not Use Grease or Oil, Graphite or Dry Lube Only!
Make sure you are installing the belt correctly also.

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

Hey fellas got the hub slid over how tight should my chain be? Other one I can push an it flex’s pretty good should it be tight enough to stop flex?

 

[Master Hack]

https://www.ibtinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Diamond-Chain-Roller-Chain-Installation.pdf

 

[Master Hack]

If you suffer from insomnia:

What Is Roller Chain Wear & Elongation - Causes & Solutions

www.nitrochain.com

 

[Ryanhodge2715]

We’ll update I had it aligned just sliding the hub an locked it down tight for sure drove 3 laps an it’s pulled itself back looking at the little bit of axel that comes threw the frame does look to be shifted I have inch on the left an about half inch on the right but even in sliding the axel itself I would have issue with my brake caliper the bracket it’s on is welded on place so that mean my rotor should remain where it is to line up with brake caliper makes me wonder if my motor should be shifted to the left is that possible with the mount gonna post pic

 

[Rat]

Hey fellas got the hub slid over how tight should my chain be? Other one I can push an it flex’s pretty good should it be tight enough to stop flex?

No it should NOT

You want it tight enough that when you push the chain by hand you get around 1/4"-1/2" deflection

 

[Rat]

We’ll update I had it aligned just sliding the hub an locked it down tight for sure drove 3 laps an it’s pulled itself back looking at the little bit of axel that comes threw the frame does look to be shifted I have inch on the left an about half inch on the right but even in sliding the axel itself I would have issue with my brake caliper the bracket it’s on is welded on place so that mean my rotor should remain where it is to line up with brake caliper makes me wonder if my motor should be shifted to the left is that possible with the mount gonna post pic

I'd figure out where the carrier needs to sit and drill a shallow (1/8-1/4) divot for the set screw to pocket itself in.

Split collars between the hubs and outside face of the bearings would probably be needed as well if both the carrier and axle are slipping independently.