Oh yes it'll hop...
I can tell that your torque converter does need your attention!
even if the internals are not worn out or stuck by now (I think they are) the rust on the sheaves will eat through your belt very quickly.
(and belts are not cheap...)
Clean it, remove all rust, and polish the sheaves as smooth as possible (no need for a mirror finish, but it wouldn't harm either)
then since you already have it apart..
drylube the internals (after some good cleaning) of the driver unit (the one that's fixed to the engine)
make sure to NOT ever put lube on the sheaves themselves.
And judging by the amount of rust...
the carb will likely be treated similarly.. so it might use some cleaning as well.
Then your forward motion will be much more reliable and pleasant.
Next, take care of your breaks (actually do so, BEFORE you enjoy the newly improved forward momentum
)
remove all the paint that sits on the actual disc (where the caliper clamps down)
personally I'd remove all of it, but if that's decorative paint you like.. no reason to get rid of it.
the brake pads however need a clean surface to grip.
The pads are available nearly everywhere.
but you need to check the number on the calipers to find the exact matching ones (there are three different styles.. circular, D shape or well.. flats on both sides of the circle
which I believe is the one you'll need..
these:
https://cometkartsales.com/Hurst-Airheart-3000-1006-Mechanical-Brake-Caliper-Replacement-Pad.html
or
http://www.mfgsupply.com/4-10191.html
I can't tell for sure, so check the one's installed first and take measurements (diameter) as well to be sure.
Then make sure the caliper itself moves freely in the retainer (that C bracket that's fixed to the frame)
it MUST float in there to provide enough stopping power.
check the return springs so you don't wear the pads down whilst driving, and you should be set.
'sid
Brake Caliper.jpg
Disc.jpg
Frame rear.jpg
Careful, he just got promoted; we don't need to get him anymore excited than he already is!!!!
