how does this sound?

[OzFab]

The shape of the frame should allow for unrestricted air flow to the engine &, to an extent, add to it. If it needs more, a bit of simple sheet metal work to create ducting down the sides (Ferrari style) should do the trick

 

[machinist@large]

but I may have to put in a fan because the air will be blocked by the seat and also I plan to install a fire wall to keep the seat and me from catching fire witch will restrict even more air flow but it may be OK how it is....sugjestions are welcome

I would recommend a pair of side-by-side fans with an emphasis on maximizing air flow around/ thru the top end zone. When the Japanese mfr's started switching over to dual cam/ 4 valve heads, they had real problems with over heating on the exhaust side at anything less than highway speeds; just too much stuff in to small a space. It's really hard to over cool the top end on one of these if you are actually using it in anger.

Get the packaging sorted out, and you are going to have a wild and woolly fun ride!!! I can't wait to see how this turns out!!

 

[ArachnidBrosMN]

I would recommend a pair of side-by-side fans with an emphasis on maximizing air flow around/ thru the top end zone. When the Japanese mfr's started switching over to dual cam/ 4 valve heads, they had real problems with over heating on the exhaust side at anything less than highway speeds; just too much stuff in to small a space. It's really hard to over cool the top end on one of these if you are actually using it in anger.

Get the packaging sorted out, and you are going to have a wild and woolly fun ride!!! I can't wait to see how this turns out!!

YES... can't wait to see it either.
I have a friend that put an even OLDER air-cooled engine on a go kart, and he found that it DID tend to run hot. So, he bought a 12v Recreational Vehicle fan from an auto parts store (like NAPA, or Checker Auto), and wired it right to his key-start so that it ran whenever he had the key turned. He had it mounted right under the front of his engine, blowing up-wards. He said that it helped a lot, and kept HIM cooler too Keep it up!!!!!

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

OK I am back most of my big game seasons are over and due to an MCL injury I am out for the rest of the football season. but that means I can get back to my build. I got my carbs for the engine but i will probably have to rebuild them. think I found a small gas tank still need shifting cable maybe I can finish by end of December...here is my latest progress and a picture of the Giant northern pike I caught this summer. sorry for the pour pictures

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

I don't know if anybody is still fallowing this but I freed up the cylinders in the carbs and I don't think they will have to be rebuilt I obtained some info on weiring and how to work the sprockets into the tight space also trying to work out how the shift lever is going to work but all in all I am getting close....if anybody has a GS750 that they want to part out I need some parts and if anybody knows of a cylendrical gas tank that is about 6-8 inch diameter and 16-20in long let me know

 

[landuse]

This really is going to be bad a$$ when it is done.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Nice Pike! Here's mine-

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

I've heard the pike fishing up there was good that is a great fish!! I happen to have a whole week off of school for thanksgiving so I am making some progress. my throttle and break are now operational. I had to splice two cables together because I used the cables from the bike the motor is from and I didn't want to buy a new one I also ordered intake boots and clamps so I could finally attach the carbs and the engine should be in running condition ....I hope
today I spent looking through the tangle of wires in the pic figuring out what goes where and what I don't need but I guess it is still progress
I cant wait to be done the end is so close I can taste it

 

[landuse]

I really like how you have connected your master cylinder directly to your pedal. Very neat. It makes things a lot easier. Things are coming along nicely

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

thanks!! I have tried to keep everything as simple as possible makes for easy repairs. One thing that is not going to be simple is the shifter lever I can not understand how to make a solid rod or something to go over the joint between the rear swing arm and main body of the kart. I think somebody told me earlier of a type of cable that will both push and pull but a person who has had experience with this engine said it would not be nearly strong enough. any advice welcome and very much wanted

 

[ArachnidBrosMN]

Very nice work on the pedal setup... as you know, a few pictures "look" easy to do, but they represent a ton of work. Nice work on the Northern Pike!!! Holy crap!

As far as your shifter setup... you may have to take the plate off your crank-case and take a look at how accessible the shifter-spring (s) are... maybe you could put a lessor spring in the engine to make it possible to use push-pull cables instead of a rod??

Or, you could always just extend the shifter lever forward to where you can grab it... and see how much it actually moves while your springs are compressing. It may not move that much.... I think most smaller shocks only have a 2 or 3" travel on them, and it might be bearable!

Good Luck!

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

I want to tear into this engine as little as possible so still looking for any bright ideas for shifting set up finally got the boots for the carbs in the picture. that plus some hard where cost over$100!!!! but carbs are mounted so ha, all I need now is a gas tank and I will be good to run the engine and see if it actually runs
my thought process through most of the build: still waiting on the

 

[OzFab]

still looking for any bright ideas for shifting set up

You mean the gear shifter? On an articulated frame, you don't have a lot of choices; it's either a heavy single cable (if you can find one) or a smaller twin setup...

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

thanks anyway I will see what I can rig up for shifting. that giant tangle of wires finally turned into a usable starter switch.
the latest problem I have is the rod for the clutch will not move in or out it has almost a quarter inch of play but i can not get it to move any more than that. it feels like there is no spring so I think the clutch plates have fused together after sitting so long. I don't want to have to take the engine apart but I am afraid I will have to.

 

[Sinbad001]

If you are going to use the electrical system from the engine, then go with an electric shifter. A car power door lock from the junkyard should work and be cheap.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

If you are going to use the electrical system from the engine, then go with an electric shifter. A car power door lock from the junkyard should work and be cheap.

I don't know if that will actually be strong enough, but even if it is- good luck hitting neutral!

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

I realized I hadn't posted any progress in the last 3 months so... update time
I ended up draining the oil and taking off the clutch cover, it is not frozen I just couldn't compress the springs by hand so that is fine but the person who had it befor the person I bought it from took that assembly off too and lost a bearing out of the clutch retaining deal so I have to replace that.

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

I tried to start it today. I have spark and compression but it almost seems like it is not getting gas any ideas? I tried ether and that got it to cough some but no continuous running

 

[Lang]

Clean carby and any fuel line

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

carbs are clean and fuel line is brand new.
I tried again and I am assuming there is some kind of electrical issue because I can now start it but it only runs with the starter button being held down....imediately when the starter button is released it shuts off. also if I give it any gas, it stops