how does this sound?

[TheWingnut]

sorry about the confusion it is a live axle I was just refering to the gear ratio from the tc to the axle I was going to use a 10 tooth on the tc with a 60 tooth sproket on the axle just as the plans show
the more I think about it I believe my weight is way off

Okay. Thats more specific, thank you.

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

like I said befor I can not weigh my frame untill monday but I looked up the weight of the steel and I calculated generously the weight of the frame and it came out to be about 110lbs not 180
I gues my mental weight calculator is measuring a little heavy
hopefully that gives you a better idea but I still have no idea how much the finished kart will weigh

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

I have some pictures of the beginning of my build but I am not sure how to put pictures on here if somebody could help that would be great

 

[Doc Sprocket]

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=735

 

[mysteryboy28]

go advanced, manage attachments. 'nuff said.

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

I think I figured it out this is just a mockup nothing is actually welded yet but it should be soon assuming I have time to work on it I added 10" to the length for leg room. the plans call for an unreasonably small main frame so that young people could only ride in it I hope this does not effect the steering but I don't realy know untill I try it unless somebody says something else on the subject

 

[Doc Sprocket]

IF the steering incorporates the Ackermann principal correctly, the added length will throw the angles off slightly. I do not think it will be significant enough to worry about.

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

well if that is the case it will be easy sailing but we all know that will never happen...frikn' Murfy and his laws
thank you to the people who told me how to post pics

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

update I am almost finished welding and I will post pictures when I am done it is kinda exiting when you get this close to the end of the frame I will also start ordering parts tomarro.... hopefully the parts recomended in the plans are going to work and on a side note has anybody bought BMIs spindle brackets lately because I have heard bad things about them and I would like to see if they have fixed the problem in the last couple of years and if they are still no good is there a better place to get them. if I can get them at a local store that would be best

 

[landuse]

update I am almost finished welding and I will post pictures when I am done it is kinda exiting when you get this close to the end of the frame I will also start ordering parts tomarro.... hopefully the parts recomended in the plans are going to work and on a side note has anybody bought BMIs spindle brackets lately because I have heard bad things about them and I would like to see if they have fixed the problem in the last couple of years and if they are still no good is there a better place to get them. if I can get them at a local store that would be best

What problems are there with the brackets? Too weak?

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

I have heard the holes are not lined up

 

[ArachnidBrosMN]

HEY!!! Back from out of town... Looks great CaptainCaveMan!!!! According to "BillCNC" (An old thread poster form this forum) he made his "steering block" 6" wide instead of 5" wide... I know that it's too late, and you've welded... AND... if you look at this:http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=15089&highlight=jwheels14 ... he used a 5" front end... in the end, Henry and I used a 6" wide steering block. so I'm crossing my fingers that all of our setups work!! (we are going to have TONS of adjusting i.e. ackerman, toe, camber.. etc) Way to go on your cuts... they look really good!! I hope to work on ours this coming weekend. Cheers!

 

[ArachnidBrosMN]

Also... did you cut your own A-arms? If so, how did you do it? They look GREAT.

AND... also (in my opinion) it was easiest to weld the half-moon cut-outs on the A-Arms to the bushings LAST... that way you aren't trying to "hammer" a bolt into the two bushings after you have welded the A-Arms to them (and the metal has warped from welding).

 

[SCK]

This is a great project you got going!

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

thank you Arachnidbros I actually did go with a 6 inch wide block as well as adding 10in to the length and 2 to the width and yes I did cut my own Aarms I used a block of wood and kut the inverse anle into it and ised it for a jig so the angle needed was 68* so I just cut 22* into the bloock of wood and clamped the whole thing to the machine and cut... easy as that did you guys have any problems with the placement of the brackets for the front shocks to get the right arm angle?

here are some pictures... if you don't like my welds sorry I am just learning to weld

 

[ArachnidBrosMN]

Looks great! Your front steering block looks clean and precise!! Yeah... I really should have set my chop saw up for the inverse-angle, but our saw is just not that precise... great work my friend! Sadly, if we were building one kart... I could have been done today, and driven it.. oh well... half the fun is building these things!!

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

thanks I actually started this project just to build it and decided I wanted to ride it and now I am trying to make it very high quality for my pleasure when I first got the idea I also wanted to keep it under $500 but that is not going to happen for this one. your arachnids look great so far good luck!

 

[CAPTAINCAVEMAN]

another double post
does anybody know if this driver ( http://www.bmikarts.com/item/40-Series-Torque-Converter-Driver-1-Bore-454010-7852 ) is compatible with this driven( http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Comet-40-Series-Driven-Unit-34-Bore-209133-6937 )? the only reason I ask is this driven( http://www.bmikarts.com/item/40-Series-Torque-Converter-Driven-78-Bore-464778-7853 ) has a 7/8 bore and I can not find a jackshaft to fit it and the first driven is cheaper so if there is a way to find the right jackshaft I would love to take that rout as long as there is a 9 tooth #40 sprocket to go with it

EDIT: can all #41 sprockets fit #40 chain?

 

[ArachnidBrosMN]

another double post
does anybody know if this driver ( http://www.bmikarts.com/item/40-Series-Torque-Converter-Driver-1-Bore-454010-7852 ) is compatible with this driven( http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Comet-40-Series-Driven-Unit-34-Bore-209133-6937 )? the only reason I ask is this driven( http://www.bmikarts.com/item/40-Series-Torque-Converter-Driven-78-Bore-464778-7853 ) has a 7/8 bore and I can not find a jackshaft to fit it and the first driven is cheaper so if there is a way to find the right jackshaft I would love to take that rout as long as there is a 9 tooth #40 sprocket to go with it

EDIT: can all #41 sprockets fit #40 chain?

Ok, here are a few things we learned about torque converters (unfortunately AFTER we bought everything)
There are true "Comet Torque Converters" and there are "Off-Brand (probably Chinese) Torque Converters" The website we used to buy our two sets of TCs is right here: http://www.gokartsupply.com/4044seri.htm
NOW... as you can see... it LOOKS like they are Comet Drivers and Drivens... but the ones on that page are NOT. They came in a box called "Thrustkit". Later, after looking, we noticed that GoKartSupply DOES sell some actual Comet products, and they are "mixed in" with their other products... somewhat deceiving. You COULD hypothetically buy an off-brand driver (like the ones we have... which seem just fine) and an actual Comet Driven... but I don't think I would be very confident in mingling two different companies products.
In other words: The actual Comet Brand items cost more. So, if you go with a Comet driver, and a less expensive off-brand Driven to save money...it COULD work... but I would go with all-one-brand myself.

If I could "do it all over again"... I would buy a BMI 40 Series Comet Brand Driver for 149.95$ (the same price as the off-brand ones on the other website... ahhhh... got ripped off) AND for the Driven, I would buy this for 139.95 at BMI ( 50 dollars cheaper than the other website!) http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Comet-44D-Series-Driven-Unit-34-Bore-209621-7530
It is a driver that is 1 inch BIGGER O.D. than the ones we bought. It would offer more lower end torque, and still give you the 1:1 ratio on the top end.
Your jack-shaft would have to be 3/4" with that driven, but that's ok... you know you would never snap it!!

NOTE: on the 9-tooth sprocket you want to use... I could NOT find a 9-tooth that would fit on a 3/4" shaft. I had to go with 10 tooth. If you go with a 7/8" driven... that's an EVEN BIGGER jack-shaft, and you might only be able to fit a 12 tooth on that size shaft.
Good luck!!!

Edit: I am not sure about the #41 Chain on the #40 Sprocket. If you can, I would just stick with #40 chain all around, and #40 Sprockets. After looking at our chain... I think anything smaller would probably break!

 

[OzFab]

can all #41 sprockets fit #40 chain?

Chain No. Pitch Roller Diameter Roller Width Sprocket thickness
40 1/2" 5/16" 5/16" 0.284"
41 1/2" 0.306" 1/4" 0.227"

As you can see from the info above, the main difference between the two is the width. As long as you use 40 chain on 41 sprockets & not the other way around, I think you should be ok.

EDIT: Sorry, that didn't work properly. I spaced it all out but it didn't stay like it. Hope you can follow it