HF 6.5 Smoke

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ZnsaneRyder

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The HF Lifans are very clean burning engines. Since it's a BRAND NEW engine, get that one replaced if you are within the return period. When my engine was brand new, it only had light black smoke the very first time, but other than that was practically smokeless.

You should only see smoke on a cold start or choke. My engine now with over 6,000 miles, if it has sat a couple days without running may have bluish-white smoke, but it goes away as soon as it warms up, and burns clean as always.

Get it replaced.
 

timmytim

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Need to make sure that you are running motor oil made for small engines that do not have a oil pump. If you are using motor oil for a car this could let it smoke also.
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ZnsaneRyder

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Assuming he does replace it, what does he do when the replacement exhibits the same thing (as it probably will)?
I suggested a way to determine an oil control problem. Perhaps he has not checked yet.

You make a good point if the replacement 6.5 does the same thing, but I've bought two of the 6.5s, both the old models, and they both burned pretty clean. If he has any problem, he should return it regardless with these mass-produced China engines. They make so many of them so fast, that some come out different than others, (somewhat defective) and you want the best.

I do find adjusting the screw on the carburetor helps if they do smoke some, as a 2.5 I had smoked, but it was just too rich from the factory, and after adjustment it burned clean too.

I know on Motoredbikes.com forum that used new 6.5's on their bike-trailers never reported smoke either. Mine only smokes when cold, because it's had the $hit beat out of it from accidents and crashes, dirty oil sometimes, high RPM with low oil at 50mph, nasty dirt roads, and bumping all the time with no suspension. Abused to the max, but never smokes constantly.

However, I would return one if it continued to have constant white smoke, as I've had two that never did that. Rgvkid here on this forum had a new 6.5HP engine shoot a constant blue flame, and he returned his engine to HF, and the replacement ran fine with no smoke or flame. Ask Rgvkid about his 6.5 clone, as he's reported it's been really good running and clean burning, and he's very pleased with his 6.5HP Lifan engine now.

The only reason I mention returning that engine to the OP, because you want to get the most for your money, and not just deal with whatever they sold you. You want the best, no matter if you spend $1 or $5,000.

I really wish I returned my first engine because it always leaked a bit of oil out of the oil seal, and after damaging and replacing it, the new seals leak too, but I didn't worry about it when I originally bought the engine when I should have returned it, but then when I worked on another 6.5 for a friend, and a 2.5, none of them leaked out the seal or smoked (after some adjustment burned clean), and that further reinforces why I believe if the engine is brand-new, it should run leak-free and smoke-free. I just want to be considerate to the OP by saying he should get the most for his money, and get a decent engine that you don't have to worry about too much for a while, as they are fairly maintenance-free when they are new, other than regular oil changes.

Also these engines are made in China, very mass produced, and even though they are great engines, I'm fully aware the poor Quality Control issues with some of these clones, so you have to make sure you get a good one first, and it will be dependable for a long time.
 

jr dragster T

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I hate crank seals, All my blockzilla's and my Rhino likes to squirt oil out periodically. Seems like we eat seals faster than fuel.
 

ZnsaneRyder

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I hate crank seals, All my blockzilla's and my Rhino likes to squirt oil out periodically. Seems like we eat seals faster than fuel.

Wow, and you only run 1/4 mile at a time and leak!. I wonder how much pressure is in your crankcase, LOL. That and your 9,000RPM probably beats it up! It would be ultra-wicked to see that engine on a kart, LOL.

I remember when I posted replacing the seals and they didn't leak, but they started leaking after a day of hard running :(.

However, one trick that's worked to help the seals a bit was to add ATF to the motor oil. I know that's not conventional wisdom by any means, by it does slow my leak some, I guess by conditioning the seals, and I was really broke and out of motor oil, so I had to use something else until I got more oil, LOL. It makes the oil red too, helps to see it better. :biggrinjester:

I'm convinced if you get a good engine, it will last long for regular go-kart use. I've run 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-50, ATF, Lucas, and even some old used 10W-30 in a pinch, LOL. As long as there's lube of some sort, it runs. Bulletproof engine, I swear.

*I REALLY want to blow up one of these clones, just to see how far you can really push one for the cause. I've run it harder than any other engine I've had, and it just keeps on going.
 

jr dragster T

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Your not supposed to go back and forth with oil brands. I belive faster racing motors has a good discustion about it. You'd be surprised, Not alot of different brands of oils mix. Even high quality assembly lube didnt mix with oil (Doesnt make sence?) And about the pressure in my crank case, Lets just say it requires 2, 3/8 hose's from the valve cover to vent it and it still could use another vent. When you have a 3-5/16" bore and a 3" stroke at 9000 RPM thats alot of air that has to move around quickly!
 
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