Has anyone here tried this or at least seen it?

[ididitlasterday]

Electric start means the engine has a charging coil or alternator for recharging the battery, which makes lights a viable option (just like a riding lawnmower).

The lights will dim at idle and brighten at higher RPM, that's sort of what Panchodog is saying, so that's all you really need to be concerned about. I wouldn't tell you not to ride at night and I'm not going to lecture you on Parenting 101. We really have some Safety Karens on the forum.

Thank you for your help helllion, I ordered the rim and hub with nuts from bmikarts , and two of the tires from Walmart. I'm expecting the battery and clutch to be here tomorrow. I did ground shipping from bmi so I'm not sure when I'll get that but Walmart says the tires will be here on 31st. I plan to order the engine Friday on the condition my VA payment is in the bank. If I add lights to the thing it will be more for people to see us, than for us to see. Plus with LEDs now they take low enough current to be possible for this application.

 

[Hellion]

Woohoo! I'm excited for you and will be keeping my fingers crossed on the engine and the rest of the parts. Expect the engine to take about 30 days+ to get to you.... Thanks for taking one for the team! I might buy one based on your results.

 

[ididitlasterday]

Woohoo! I'm excited for you and will be keeping my fingers crossed on the engine and the rest of the parts. Expect the engine to take about 30 days+ to get to you.... Thanks for taking one for the team! I might buy one based on your results.

It says estimated delivery in 5-9 days

 

[ididitlasterday]

If I make it home before dark today I will snap some more pics. I'm going to have to bust out my welding machine and cutting wheel and make a battery hold down.

 

[ididitlasterday]

So on another note, I'm going to have to make some seat cushions. I have a pretty good idea how to make them with foam and fabric and plywood, but I'm curious what materials would give the best fit and finish while also being durable and weather resistant, while providing some level of cushion over the metal seat. The seat bottom is supposed to slide but the mechanism doesn't work well so I'll probably take it off. The seat back is actually part of the frame and not removable. Any suggestions on materials, and where to acquire them?

 

[Denny]

Use vinyl from JoAnne Fabrics or some place like that. And remember most of that stuff is only made to stretch in one direction. Also a layer of heavy black plastic outdoor garden trash bag or Visqueen between the foam and plywood and over the foam will help the plywood live longer too!

 

[Hellion]

I bought this for my Manco back when it was $49.99 and it's a direct fit for my model 485.
https://www.gopowersports.com/yerf-dog-carter-go-kart-double-seat-cushion/

Not suggesting you buy it but use it as a template so to speak. Most go kart seats, like this one, have a plywood base with foam while the backrest is just vinyl and foam with a sleeve that slips over the backrest. The factory go kart foam was really cheap material but you can do better. There's some really good foam rubbers that are soft but also thick and don't bottom out.

Best thing for weather resistance is to store your kart indoors, that's the best for it, but maybe there's a seam sealer you can use.

I'm glad you're trying to restore it instead of just bolting on a lawnmower seat.

 

[ididitlasterday]

I found this: https://www.bmikarts.com/Double-Sea...7koE1R6ocPneqJIUN1PwzNjPTOPM_d5xoCWdsQAvD_BwE. Looks like it might fit, I haven't measured yet. It's only $32. It's possible I can make a nicer one, but for the time and materials I think it is a bargain.

I took some pictures today, here they are. I'm replacing the front tires already, the rear tires I'll replace soon too. The seat has some crazy bolts I'll have to cut to get off, you can see them in the picture of the bottom. I figure I'll have to take the seat off to get the rails to slide correctly. The brake drum seems to be out of round, I noticed nuts instead of proper spacers between the hub and the drum. Wheel bearings on the three correct hubs seem fine but the right front spindle has a lot of slop where it bolts to the frame. I'm thinking I can fit the proper size washer and weld them to the frame, top and bottom. The bearings could most likely use a repack with grease. The bolts that mount the roll bar to the frame are missing because I had to take it off to get it home in my vehicle. Obviously I plan to replace them. The throttle linkage is kind of weird and has been messed with so I assume I'll have to fabricate something to go from the bar behind the seat to the throttle on the motor using my welding machine. The seat belts work fine but do need to be cleaned. A little bit of paint on the roll bars and a wash and it will look great.

 

[ididitlasterday]

I bought this for my Manco back when it was $49.99 and it's a direct fit for my model 485.
https://www.gopowersports.com/yerf-dog-carter-go-kart-double-seat-cushion/

Not suggesting you buy it but use it as a template so to speak. Most go kart seats, like this one, have a plywood base with foam while the backrest is just vinyl and foam with a sleeve that slips over the backrest. The factory go kart foam was really cheap material but you can do better. There's some really good foam rubbers that are soft but also thick and don't bottom out.

Best thing for weather resistance is to store your kart indoors, that's the best for it, but maybe there's a seam sealer you can use.

I'm glad you're trying to restore it instead of just bolting on a lawnmower seat.

Where we currently live I don't have room or a place to keep it indoors. I'm going to have to get a cover, as crazy as it sounds I think my grill cover might fit and cover it really well.

 

[Denny]

Manco used nuts for a lot of years for spacers. And why not, they work great. You can still get new bands and brake drums. BMI, GoKart Supply, MFG Supply, OMB Warehouse, and a bunch of others are now your new best friends! Congratulations!

 

[Hellion]

Thanks for the photos. Your kart is in really good condition. Seat looks like a bargain but only if it fits.

You know, you can use that non-matching wheel on the front left until it breaks (if it breaks)---it's just that everyone freaks out on the "Harbor Freight" wheels or anything that looks like them. There were multiple people on this forum long ago and a guy on Youtube in particular that used those wheels on his kart and they lasted 10 minutes or less. The greasy vinyl "rubber" and the thin stamped metal construction weren't made for stress. Your wheel looks a bit more substantial or designed to take some abuse.

No worries on the storage issue, it is what it is, but a tarp or cover is a very good idea. You could also remove the roll cage/brush guard (it is only held on by screws) and then your tarp can be smaller. Watch out for rodents making a nest inside your engine, like around the blower shroud/recoil starter and around the cooling fins. That's bad news for the engine because it can overheat.

There's debates on the merits and detriments of roll cages/roll bars on a go kart and if they really protect the riders. This forum says if you have a roll cage, then you need to use the seat belts but the belts on your kart, for example, are just a combination lap and shoulder belt (automotive style) and they won't really hold you in in a roll over. Just be careful out there and be aware of the dangers.

 

[ididitlasterday]

Thanks for the photos. Your kart is in really good condition. Seat looks like a bargain but only if it fits.

You know, you can use that non-matching wheel on the front left until it breaks (if it breaks)---it's just that everyone freaks out on the "Harbor Freight" wheels or anything that looks like them. There were multiple people on this forum long ago and a guy on Youtube in particular that used those wheels on his kart and they lasted 10 minutes or less. The greasy vinyl "rubber" and the thin stamped metal construction weren't made for stress. Your wheel looks a bit more substantial or designed to take some abuse.

No worries on the storage issue, it is what it is, but a tarp or cover is a very good idea. You could also remove the roll cage/brush guard (it is only held on by screws) and then your tarp can be smaller. Watch out for rodents making a nest inside your engine, like around the blower shroud/recoil starter and around the cooling fins. That's bad news for the engine because it can overheat.

There's debates on the merits and detriments of roll cages/roll bars on a go kart and if they really protect the riders. This forum says if you have a roll cage, then you need to use the seat belts but the belts on your kart, for example, are just a combination lap and shoulder belt (automotive style) and they won't really hold you in in a roll over. Just be careful out there and be aware of the dangers.

It keeps losing air and I don't expect it to drive straight with mis matched tires and rims. The other tires are cracked and dried out so I decided to get the front ones and will get the back ones eventually.
The neighbors a few houses down have a nice flat clay area next to their house and I have seen a kart similar to mine sitting over there. I have not met them Yet but plan to ride over there when the I have it running and introduce myself and my kid in hopes of making friends and having a nice place to ride. I never wrecked my kart as a kid but my brother did turn his over and if he didn't have a helmet on it probably would have killed him. He had a single seater with a 3hp Tecumseh and managed to flip it in a curve and the seat back bounced off of his helmet. I witnessed it. So my kid will be wearing his helmet and seat belts. We also won't be doing any "off road" type driving, strictly clay and nice flat trials. Anything with no suspension is horrible over bumps.

 

[Denny]

Anything with no suspension is horrible over bumps.

Not if you add big cushy ATV tires!

 

[Hellion]

I wish the old Honda ATC90 3-wheeler/Amphicat 6x6 ATV tires were available. They were donut-shaped low pressure tires that were bonded to a 3" rim making it a one-piece affair. The tire composition was basically balloon rubber minus the multi-layers of polyester plies and stiffeners used on conventional tires. When they wore out you tossed the whole thing and put a new one on, but they were very expensive at the time and were eventually phased out. The ATC90 or US90 was touted as a rock crawler no doubt on account of the low speed and those tires that molded themselves around rocks and stumps instead of sliding off.

The other tires are cracked and dried out so I decided to get the front ones and will get the back ones eventually.

The beauty of tube tires is that that you can use otherwise crappy tires, even ones with holes in them because it is the inner tube and not the tire itself that provides the inflation and the integrity.

 

[ididitlasterday]

Thanks for the photos. Your kart is in really good condition. Seat looks like a bargain but only if it fits.

You know, you can use that non-matching wheel on the front left until it breaks (if it breaks)---it's just that everyone freaks out on the "Harbor Freight" wheels or anything that looks like them. There were multiple people on this forum long ago and a guy on Youtube in particular that used those wheels on his kart and they lasted 10 minutes or less. The greasy vinyl "rubber" and the thin stamped metal construction weren't made for stress. Your wheel looks a bit more substantial or designed to take some abuse.

No worries on the storage issue, it is what it is, but a tarp or cover is a very good idea. You could also remove the roll cage/brush guard (it is only held on by screws) and then your tarp can be smaller. Watch out for rodents making a nest inside your engine, like around the blower shroud/recoil starter and around the cooling fins. That's bad news for the engine because it can overheat.

There's debates on the merits and detriments of roll cages/roll bars on a go kart and if they really protect the riders. This forum says if you have a roll cage, then you need to use the seat belts but the belts on your kart, for example, are just a combination lap and shoulder belt (automotive style) and they won't really hold you in in a roll over. Just be careful out there and be aware of the dangers.

I paid $80 for it, I assumed it was a good price even with the work I'm putting into it

 

[Denny]

For the money you got a screaming deal!

 

[ididitlasterday]

For the money you got a screaming deal!

Indeed, with all the stuff I've bought, plus the motor and seat , I'll have less than 400 in it. That is a key start kart with new motor, new clutch and new battery and new front tires. Obviously I have to make a battery tray, and wire up the ground/starter. I think it will be a fun, reliable kart.

 

[Rat]

Indeed, with all the stuff I've bought, plus the motor and seat , I'll have less than 400 in it. That is a key start kart with new motor, new clutch and new battery and new front tires. Obviously I have to make a battery tray, and wire up the ground/starter. I think it will be a fun, reliable kart.

I only paid $110 for my Husqvarna 208 on a fleabay sale which only needed the 120vAC starter swapped for a 12vDC one... I'm not a big fan of the Predator engines or any of that "No name" crap from China.

Of course I've put quite a bit of optional work into it to get more grunt out than I really need... but it's fun and it hauls balls

 

[ididitlasterday]

So I ordered the motor today, paid 104 plus tax. Hopefully it will ship faster than bmikarts, who still shows my order as "processing". I will update you as more progress is made. If anyone wants the link to the $104 listing just let me know.

 

[Rat]

So I ordered the motor today, paid 104 plus tax. Hopefully it will ship faster than bmikarts, who still shows my order as "processing". I will update you as more progress is made.

You ordered what engine?