TNThomas
Well-known member
4 ply, and can go up to 20 psi. Ill be riding alot od dirt roads at speed, so these should hhopefully serve ne better than 2 ply at low psi.
Grand Daddyish build
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madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Am I reading that 22x11-8 tire correctly as 22" tall x 11" wide on an 8" rim? That's surely an offroad wet/dry tire to have fun on. That tread looks like it would pull through some serious mud, I'd only be concerned about ground clearance for the rear sprocket. Lost track of the thread, will it even have an axle sprocket, or instead some CV axles from a differential? Big variant in ground clearance there.
TNThomas
Well-known member
Yea, it will be a standard go-kart setup with a CV and sprocket on the rear. You are reading the tire size correctly as well. Sprocket will be a little exposed, but shouldnt be too big of an issue. Nothing a hammer cant fix on the trail if it gets bent.
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Denny
Canned Monster
Or you could make a guard for it from some heavy strap like MANCO used to do.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Ditto that thought, handmade can be much stronger than store-bought sprocket guards. I put a double-sided 4-piece 9" aluminum sprocket guard on my axle sprocket, and the screw lugs themselves popped right out of it.
Now have a 3' piece of 2" flat bar (1/8" thick?) from Home Depot that's getting hammered around a spare rim to curve it, will be welded around sprocket very close, just enough room to slip chain on/off. Reinforcing struts will make it really tough, but little 3/8" slices of flat bar welded around the perimeter will make it nearly bend-proof, will be able to do gnarly-grinds along curbs with it.
Great advice Denny!
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TNThomas
Well-known member
Nice, ill copy your idea, very smart! Thanks for that.
TNThomas
Well-known member
Got my sledge hammers, I mean spindles, built.
TNThomas
Well-known member
Denny
Canned Monster
Now take the bearing cap covers and drill a small hole in the center and thread in a grease zerk. Fill the cap and bearings with waterproof wheel bearing grease. Tap the cap on and instant generic bearing buddies! They work great!
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Denny: Waterproof grease? Bearing Buddies? You just gave it away, Ace, you know about boats and boat trailers. There's another piece of subject matter we have in common. I used to buy (use and abuse) and sell used boats all the time, maybe 30 of them. Seen 3 of them get sunk, none when I was around of course.
TNT: Those sledgehammers have been well named, they do look like an ironworker's beaters. True meat on that whole front end, you've built for the worst-case scenario. Know what those Bearing Buddies from the ship's stores shop are? Just like a bearing cap cover, but with a zerk and a tiny gasket, some have a transparent cap. Buying some or making your own, you still need grease, waterproof marine variety like Denny said is the right stuff. Made for going underwater as boat trailers are backed down the ramp and submerged.
Here's the thing, there's at least 3 different grades of marine grease for that. Some say they want thin grease that will keep a seep into the bearings, but it leaks sooner than later. I recommend using the thickest grade you can find, it's like soft wax. Pack a Bearing Buddy full of it and it will still keep an already-greased bearing safe for, well, forever in my own experience.
TNT: Those sledgehammers have been well named, they do look like an ironworker's beaters. True meat on that whole front end, you've built for the worst-case scenario. Know what those Bearing Buddies from the ship's stores shop are? Just like a bearing cap cover, but with a zerk and a tiny gasket, some have a transparent cap. Buying some or making your own, you still need grease, waterproof marine variety like Denny said is the right stuff. Made for going underwater as boat trailers are backed down the ramp and submerged.
Here's the thing, there's at least 3 different grades of marine grease for that. Some say they want thin grease that will keep a seep into the bearings, but it leaks sooner than later. I recommend using the thickest grade you can find, it's like soft wax. Pack a Bearing Buddy full of it and it will still keep an already-greased bearing safe for, well, forever in my own experience.
Denny
Canned Monster
My last boat was a 1957 14’ Starcraft aluminum ski boat with a 57 Kiekoffer 35hp Mercury.
TNThomas
Well-known member
Smart thinking with the zirk fitting, Ill do that! Thanks.
TNThomas
Well-known member
Is it possible to put too much grease in the hub? There is tons of room in there for it. I put quite a bit in, but they are probably about 50% full. Ill pick up some marine grade bearing/hub grease, thanks for the info. Ive just about polished off my first ever container of grease, had it for about 10 years.
Denny
Canned Monster
On a Gokart not really, on a car or trailer that run at much higher speeds for a long periods of time yes.
TNThomas
Well-known member
Ok, got all four tires on the wheels. Its a workout! Still need to seat the beads. Really impressed with the tires. Only issue is that they are not a true 22". Much closer to 20.5". I found a cool trick to help on the last part of seating the tire: put vice grips on the rim. It acts as a third hand freeing your offhand up. Very helpful.
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Denny
Canned Monster
I have a Harbor Freight tire machine and I have no problem mounting tires on golf kart rims. Let them sit out in the sun on a hot day and they will grow. The ones I had at 20 psi after use in hot weather were almost 23” tall on an 8” wide rim. If the refuse to bead up because they were folded or something, you can wrap a ratcheting tie down around the tire. Then air it up while tightening the strap.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Word of warning: Spraying starting fluid into a tire and lighting it for an explosion to seat the beads does work well on truck tires and such.
On smaller tires like you're working with it's a lot harder, had that experience myself. Popped it off several times to make it happen, and I assure you that even when being cautious your patience will wear down. That leads to using more explosive than you should, more reckless action lighting it off, not drawing back fast or far enough, etc. Just don't blow your face off is what I'm saying, if you try that old school method.
On smaller tires like you're working with it's a lot harder, had that experience myself. Popped it off several times to make it happen, and I assure you that even when being cautious your patience will wear down. That leads to using more explosive than you should, more reckless action lighting it off, not drawing back fast or far enough, etc. Just don't blow your face off is what I'm saying, if you try that old school method.
TNThomas
Well-known member
Good advice. Ill try the safe method first, then move to the more dangerous stuff