Grand Daddyish build

madprofessor

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Trying to see what you have in mind, lost on something in the pics. The bow/aft frame structure for the upper A-arms is gapped several inches in the center, with a pair of 45 degree angle cuts. Undoubtedly very strong as is, but obviously something else planned for it. What am I missing?
 

TNThomas

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Trying to see what you have in mind, lost on something in the pics. The bow/aft frame structure for the upper A-arms is gapped several inches in the center, with a pair of 45 degree angle cuts. Undoubtedly very strong as is, but obviously something else planned for it. What am I missing?
Oh yea, those 45 deg cuts are straight out of the plans for spider carts. I built thatvsection before the front, and went straight off the plans. Its meant to be for clearance for a steering linkage. But since I lengthened the frame 12", brought back the mount for the rack and pinion (small hard to see piece of angle iron), and then widened the whole rectangular structure that the a-arms mount on, now my angles and spacing are such that I didn't even neef that cut. Ill probably just cover the tubes up and leave as is. She is plenty strong up front.

I still have one or two pieces to weld on for shock supports. But the hardest part is done up front however.

When we get stuck offroading, usually the car in the rear will ram the one in front of it to push it over obstacles, hence for the beefyness up front.
 

karl

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Just sticking my foot in the door...

Looking awesome!

Those seats are great, survived rollovers with no cage, just some rash
 

TNThomas

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I realized one shock on each side wint be enough, so ill do two on each side, bottom will be kicked out at an angle on the lower a-arm, but up top will mount fairly close to ehere they are at. These monroe shocks came with some mounting "posts/bolts" that ill chop and weld onto either side of the little angled piece of steel up top. Ill figure the bottom out over the weekend.20220209_220447.jpg20220209_220439.jpg20220209_220455.jpg
 

TNThomas

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Just sticking my foot in the door...

Looking awesome!

Those seats are great, survived rollovers with no cage, just some rash
Good to know! I am surprised how cheap/sturdy they are. Good simple mounting too.
 

madprofessor

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Would be nice if you could mount the pairs of shocks (on a single side) at different angles to ease the spring compression rates, and would look pretty cool too.
 

TNThomas

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Both sides of shocks on. Pretty satisfied with the twin setup, and the shocks. USA made, and welded, not cast like lots of the chinese stuff, good price too. 14.25" eye to eye long, info is on the first page of this build. These came with mounting bolts for the top. I sliced them in half and welded them on the frame. One I welded a little canted, but not big enough of a deal to redo it. Im going to wait on the bottom mounts till my spindles are built, as They will probably slightly change my A-arm angles once everything is bolted up. Im going overnight snowmobiling in Idaho next weekend, so getting what I can get done before then.
20220213_212612.jpg20220213_215309.jpg20220213_215217.jpg
 

TNThomas

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Im seriously considering scrapping the 6 wheel and 3rd seat idea. Ill be done sooner, smaller length, cheaper, better turning, lighter, and faster. In all honesty I wanted the extra axle for snow, but bolt on utv Snow tracks might be a better idea for that. It would probably burn belts up easier with the extra axle as well.
 

madprofessor

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overnight snowmobiling in Idaho
We call y'all snowbunnies down here in the Funshine State, but that trip you've planned sounds more Abominable, snow man!
Im seriously considering scrapping the 6 wheel and 3rd seat idea.
Scrapping the 2nd axle will sho' nuff get it done sooner. I'd reconsider scrapping the 3rd seat thing though, just build a couple of empty mounts for it, you can take your time then and add it on later. Still will give that cool look without any extra axles required, especially if it gets the 50cal. repro mounted with it.
Want me to email you my 50cal. scale plans? Several pages of it, most in color, would give you the website info if it wasn't already evaporated from the gray matter.
 

TNThomas

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We call y'all snowbunnies down here in the Funshine State, but that trip you've planned sounds more Abominable, snow man!

Scrapping the 2nd axle will sho' nuff get it done sooner. I'd reconsider scrapping the 3rd seat thing though, just build a couple of empty mounts for it, you can take your time then and add it on later. Still will give that cool look without any extra axles required, especially if it gets the 50cal. repro mounted with it.
Want me to email you my 50cal. scale plans? Several pages of it, most in color, would give you the website info if it wasn't already evaporated from the gray matter.
I appreciate the thought but ill pass in the 50 cal scaled plans. Thanks though! Back from the mountains. Thats me on the right (hence why im building the buggy beefy).
 

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madprofessor

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Got to think about the extra weight carrying capacity. And vehicle stability.
??????????? Hadn't thought of that, something as beefy as a Jeep was floating in the gray matter. Now I'm picturing a 3rd seat mounted too far rearward, like over the axle. Would do a wheelie every time you floor it. Hard to steer with front wheels off the ground.
THT, what are you using for axles and bearings in the rear? And what's the wheelbase on just 2 axles (front/rear)?
 

TNThomas

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Yea, I posted a drawing of my idea a few months ago on one of the earlier pages. Im scrapping the idea, and going to stick to a standard 4 wheel buggy setup. The whole point of a buggy is to make it handy and get places my truck can't go, so might as well go a little smaller. One axle in the rear. Two seats, and possibly a small bed similar to what UTVs have. I might do some simple folding seats in the bed to haul the kids around in the woods. I got the Spindles cut, for the front wheels, and just got to weld them up. They are "stupid" thick, haha. 1" shaft that the bearings/hub rides on, welded up to a 1.5" DOM steel tubing. I'll wait to weld the arm on for the tie rods so I can get a proper acreman, setup (or whatever the name is). 4 tires are coming in tomorrow. I will probably have to extend my A arms out another inch or two to clear the shocks, they would be rubbing if I mounted them as is. Its going to be a wide stance up front, but that will be nice for hills/stability. I'll post photos soon. Need to get some house remodels going today to keep the wife happy with my time spent on the buggy. What have you guys done for paint on frames? I was told by a buddy to do plasti-dip, but Im not too excited about that for a few reasons. Part of me just wants to do a few clear coats. Not that my welds are perfect, but I like the naked look of steel more than paint over everything.
 

TNThomas

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??????????? Hadn't thought of that, something as beefy as a Jeep was floating in the gray matter. Now I'm picturing a 3rd seat mounted too far rearward, like over the axle. Would do a wheelie every time you floor it. Hard to steer with front wheels off the ground.
THT, what are you using for axles and bearings in the rear? And what's the wheelbase on just 2 axles (front/rear)?
I am going to put the rear axle as far forward as possible, to keep it as short as possible (I already extended the frame a foot for my height). I found a thread on here from a few years ago where a guy put a 1.25" solid steel axle keyed axle in the rear, thats what I plan on doing. I'll do bearings as close to the wheel as possible to reduce torque/bend on the axle. I'll still likely stray from the rear frame plans a bit to accommodate for some sort of small bed, as the Spider cart plans have nothing to account for storage in the rear. It will probably be 90ish inches long from the front bumper to the very rear part of the frame.
 
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