Go Kart With Snowmobile Engine Build

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fourtogo

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Frame limits

Great!
Congrats to you! Now you have all the options that everyone has given you and hopefully you can prove to all of us that you mean what you say by making this thing work but I can tell you after 40 years of being a mechanic and many years of racing different machines it is not all about just bolting the biggest engine on a frame that is not strong enough to begin with to handle the added weight and power that this engine will make and in turn make the whole set up handle and turn without oversteer or understeer and the be able to stop the entire mass safely and then also have the guts to drive it safely without getting hurt or worse be careful of what you are doing and heed these warnings from these men with much more insight than you have.
Being a life long Karter/Motorcycle/Car racer<< not that bring any weight to the conversation. The kind frame that Rushking is going to use . Have back in the day had twins triples and motorcycle engines. I am sure when a frame is being built you never know what it will do till you have a seat and see. The frame I built wayyyyyyyyyyy back work great in the dirt.
 

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rushking19

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Being a life long Karter/Motorcycle/Car racer<< not that bring any weight to the conversation. The kind frame that Rushking is going to use . Have back in the day had twins triples and motorcycle engines. I am sure when a frame is being built you never know what it will do till you have a seat and see. The frame I built wayyyyyyyyyyy back work great in the dirt.

I plan on reinforceing the frame
 

Desertduler

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Being a life long Karter/Motorcycle/Car racer<< not that bring any weight to the conversation. The kind frame that Rushking is going to use . Have back in the day had twins triples and motorcycle engines. I am sure when a frame is being built you never know what it will do till you have a seat and see. The frame I built wayyyyyyyyyyy back work great in the dirt.
With all due respect to you I can see by your old photo pitching it sideways that you know what you are talking about :thumbsup:
 

rushking19

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Assuming you have tried and stripped the appropriate hex key, try hammering a torx BIT that is only slightly bigger than the hex key that stripped. Slowly try to loosen it. Heat and or penetrating oil always help. Failing that, drill out and use an extractor.:cheers2:

Thanks so much I got it out, I'm going to get a new bolt from home depot soon
 

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mckutzy

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With all this talk about this new motor your getting, please tell me those aren't the brakes your going to use......
 

firemanjim

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RushKing, I just read through this whole thread..... Man, I think you bought a headache..... Not to be Debbie-Downer, but I don't think the engine you bought is in your realm of fabrication skills. Not a bad thing, a good thing to aspire to though.... With that engine, you are going to have do do a lot of engineering to get it fit and functional, in a safe and reliable manner. Since you keep mentioning the $58 it set you back, you should have considered that an appropriate clutch/drive line was going to set you back $200-300 EASY..... There is a reason you don't see 40hp karts,..... It cost TOO much on the drive train to be reliable..... And atv auto clutch is much more robust than a same hp kart clutch, and costs more.....
I tell ya, you would have been better off buying a used atv engine, around 70-80cc with gears, and be cheaper in the long run. It's easy to mount one, and they are a $#!£ load of fun on a kart. My little 70cc Honda atc engine has enough torque, that if on a kart geared right, you can spin the tires in first and hit 45-50 in third...... What more do you want/need.... You saw how easy it was to mount that 125cc in my thread. Easy peasy.....
I tell ya what, I might be interested in the rotax. Let me see if I can find you a more suitable engine, and maybe work something out.....
To take that crank to a shop for machine work, man, $70 won't get you too far.... I've been a machinist for 20 years straight. Speaking from experience, it would probably be more like $100 to cut a keyway in that crank. And $150 ish to turn it down in diameter, or more.... You got to pay for set up too. That thing has to be machined using a steady rest and/or live center. Meaning, it is cut outside the machine, not inside. More difficulties (lol inside joke.... M@L) cost more..... And it's a 1 piece job at that..... $$$$$
I don't know.... This is just my 2cents...... :huh:
 

rushking19

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:popcorn:
RushKing, I just read through this whole thread..... Man, I think you bought a headache..... Not to be Debbie-Downer, but I don't think the engine you bought is in your realm of fabrication skills. Not a bad thing, a good thing to aspire to though.... With that engine, you are going to have do do a lot of engineering to get it fit and functional, in a safe and reliable manner. Since you keep mentioning the $58 it set you back, you should have considered that an appropriate clutch/drive line was going to set you back $200-300 EASY..... There is a reason you don't see 40hp karts,..... It cost TOO much on the drive train to be reliable..... And atv auto clutch is much more robust than a same hp kart clutch, and costs more.....
I tell ya, you would have been better off buying a used atv engine, around 70-80cc with gears, and be cheaper in the long run. It's easy to mount one, and they are a $#!£ load of fun on a kart. My little 70cc Honda atc engine has enough torque, that if on a kart geared right, you can spin the tires in first and hit 45-50 in third...... What more do you want/need.... You saw how easy it was to mount that 125cc in my thread. Easy peasy.....
I tell ya what, I might be interested in the rotax. Let me see if I can find you a more suitable engine, and maybe work something out.....
To take that crank to a shop for machine work, man, $70 won't get you too far.... I've been a machinist for 20 years straight. Speaking from experience, it would probably be more like $100 to cut a keyway in that crank. And $150 ish to turn it down in diameter, or more.... You got to pay for set up too. That thing has to be machined using a steady rest and/or live center. Meaning, it is cut outside the machine, not inside. More difficulties (lol inside joke.... M@L) cost more..... And it's a 1 piece job at that..... $$$$$
I don't know.... This is just my 2cents...... :huh:

I get what you are saying, but one I'm not cutting a keyway in my engine crankshaft because it will be too much work,and a honda atc engine is to expensive for me, even though I have a honda atc I'm rebuilding, I really want a snowmobile engine just because I always one on my go kart, and I'm ready to take on the challenge no matter what
 

firemanjim

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I find 110cc bikes on craigslist all the time for $50-150...... These are great kart engines....... Just saying......
 

firemanjim

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I think you are missing the point..... YOU can buy one from here, while still being there..... Like I said, let ME see if I can find/get you a better suited engine (and running) FOR you.....
See I have the means/ability to use that rotax to power a small car transmission, and put in a mini buggy. And tomorrow I'm supposed to be buying a complete, running,110cc mini chopper. 4speed..... $50..... Needs carb work cause it won't stay running...... Now do you see what I'm getting at?..... Trying to help you out.... Not derail you.......
 

landuse

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I think you are missing the point..... YOU can buy one from here, while still being there..... Like I said, let ME see if I can find/get you a better suited engine (and running) FOR you.....
See I have the means/ability to use that rotax to power a small car transmission, and put in a mini buggy. And tomorrow I'm supposed to be buying a complete, running,110cc mini chopper. 4speed..... $50..... Needs carb work cause it won't stay running...... Now do you see what I'm getting at?..... Trying to help you out.... Not derail you.......

Thats a nice offer Jim
 

machinist@large

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RushKing, I think another thing you've missed is that to turn down the end of the crank and machine a key way in it, you're going to have to tear down the engine. And while I don't know about this particular engine, many two stroke's run ball bearing crankshafts. And many of those require some serious factory training and tooling to tear down and reassemble.

You aren't going to do this for $5.00, on a beat up folding table in your basement. You're also going to need the gaskets and seals for the engine,to replace the old ones when you go to reassemble the thing.

You have to remember; THIS IS A TWO STROKE ENGINE!!!!!! It operates as an air pump. Two strokes are ten times more sensitive than a four stroke for having the proper and complete sealing of the crankcase. Smearing every thing with tub & tile adhesive to try and reseal the thing won't get you anywhere.

And do you have the nessesery precision measuring tools to properly do all this? If not, you need to budget at least another couple of hundred bucks for just the tool's, provided you actually have the training to utilize them....

EDIT; You aren't even planning on what it might take to let you adapt this engine to use all the parts you've been asking about, because it would be" TO MUCH WORK!?!?!" So just why have you been waisting our time!?!?!
 
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rushking19

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I think you are missing the point..... YOU can buy one from here, while still being there..... Like I said, let ME see if I can find/get you a better suited engine (and running) FOR you.....
See I have the means/ability to use that rotax to power a small car transmission, and put in a mini buggy. And tomorrow I'm supposed to be buying a complete, running,110cc mini chopper. 4speed..... $50..... Needs carb work cause it won't stay running...... Now do you see what I'm getting at?..... Trying to help you out.... Not derail you.......

The engine is running, just needs some carb cleaning
 

firemanjim

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:funnypost: He means , no, of course no brakes..... :lolgoku:
If there is no plan for that either, then I'm seriously doubting this thing ever comes alive..... :oops:
 
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