I was told the exact opposite by my dad who used to run stock cars. He told me horror stories of guys who ran shoulder mounts lower than their shoulders and how in an impact the straps would compress their spines down rather than just hold them back. He was the one who told me to run them in line or at the very least higher than my shoulders. Granted, it may be a little overkill but I'm going to drop them down anyway. They'll probably get mounted somewhere else.You want your harness mounts lower than your shoulders to keep you in the seat. Might want to rethink the mounts for that.
You know what I think you might be right. I'll probably just do it at a happy medium then. I'll have it set in line with the back of the seat which is actually a little shorter than my shoulders (about 2" or so). This isn't a stock car after all. If I hit something at 50+ mph I'm going to have much bigger problems to worry about...Just ran the orthopedic scenario in my head. Isn't it the lap belts' job to keep your back cheeks planted in the seat (nothing pulling down on your clavicles), and the shoulder belts' job to keep you from spilling out sideways, much less snapping forward? The upper cervicals (neck) should catch lateral side movement, not your dumbo flaps (ears). Level or lowered, the shoulder belts would do that if spaced close enough together.
Disclaimer: Not an orthopedist, just a meatsack around a perpetually damaged spine. Glowing a little from all the cobalt rays over the years.
The high center console helped a little (those lower ribs are permanently caved in), but when I totaled the 280ZX it was the lap belt part of the factory shoulder harness setup that kept me from shooting out of the exploded passenger side window. Just in front of where I folded the car in half.lap belts' job to keep your back cheeks planted in the seat
Looking good! I like your shock setup, pretty easy to change your angles if needed in the future. Im at the same stage right now. Keep it coming, looking good!Now that I'm happy with the harness (finished it last week), I'm moving on to doing some supports for the axle. I'll be adding two more axle hangers closer to the tires.
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I was originally going to just do pieces of flat bar to connect the flanges to the rest of the swingarm, but I think I'm just going to use some square tubing instead. I'm going to have it set up something like this:
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From there it's just a matter of mounting the brake caliper and then the swingarm will be done.
Thank you. The bearings ride a little under 3" from the hubs for the tires, so there's very little leverage to bend the axle. Any closer and I may start to experience tire rub.perfecto
Da redflash
Pretty dang cool!Got some pictures for you today. I built the pedals and a new steering "yoke" (similar to the steering yoke of the old Honda FL250/FL350. All that's left is to create the center hub for connecting it to the steering shaft and wrap the handles with handlebar tape. This new yoke is obviously heavier than the old wheel as its larger and entirely made of metal. The old wheel was 2.5 pounds and this yoke is 5 pounds. However I'm willing to be just 2.5 pounds heavier for improved steering leverage.
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I think I nailed the FL250/FL350 inspiration though. What do you think?
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As for the pedals, they have holes drilled into them so I can use the extra pieces above to extend them out so my girlfriend can reach the pedals (can adjust the distance with bolts).