FL250 With Yamaha 540 Sled Build

[bighead]

I am kind of thinking about your swing arm setup. Having those peaces and then the rear frame section does not seem right. I cannot put a finger on it but it really has me thinking. It's like your adding a section of frame then the swingarm.

Something does not seem right. Why not make the swingarm longer or main frame? Then cut the bushing out and weld them derect to the frame. I think it would be much cleaner....Instead of having 10 plus welds to break at the swingarm point. You would cut that down to 4 welds.

I am not a frame guy but it just seems like a magor stress gap in your frame setup. Why are you making it longer? You do not want to mod the pipe?

 

[bighead]

I also have this pipe set up on a sled engine. Not sure how it works but I thought it was pretty slick.

The pipe is facing the wrong way. I have both pipes. This was in a Ody already when I got it.

 

[fl250540]

Ive came up with a better set up. will have some pics up today.

 

[fl250540]

Made some progress today, starting to shape up.

 

[bighead]

much better my friend. You can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

Not to be a downer, but with atv tires on the back, that stock sled chaincase wont give you enough reduction. you'll either need to use REALLY small tires, or do a double jackshaft setup. I've never seen a sled chaincase with greater than 2.5:1 reduction.

 

[r97]

Not to be a downer, but with atv tires on the back, that stock sled chaincase wont give you enough reduction. you'll either need to use REALLY small tires, or do a double jackshaft setup. I've never seen a sled chaincase with greater than 2.5:1 reduction.

I think he is using the chaincase from the stock ody. If that is the case then I presume it would have an adequate reduction for similar sized tires to those that were originally equipped. That is of course assuming the new CVT has a similar reduction as the original.

 

[fl250540]

Stock Oddy

 

[bighead]

Yah he using the stock reduction unit which is 10.1 reduction.He just needs to make the driven wider to take the larger sled belt.

 

[fl250540]

Anyone know how long the stock tack cables are for these? from the pics on ebay they all seem to only be a few feet long, any idea on what cables would interchange? looking to mount a tach in front of my steering whee. heres the link to one i think would work. going to order the stock tack and build a box for it.http://www.ebay.com/itm/330690617174?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[fl250540]

Got one bracket made for the reduction box, and an idea of how im going to build the motor mount.

 

[fl250540]

Going to run the exhaust strait down and under the engine then up and to the stock sled muffler.

 

[fl250540]

Once i get everything fabed up, ill be able to see what kind of clearance issues ill have with the engine hitting the roll cage and seat when the shocks are compressed. May end up wideing the main tower of the roll cage.

 

[bighead]

Are you sure those bike frames are strong enough? What's the wall thickness on them? Build you mount like I did with a large square bar with slotted holes.

Is you pipe going to get crushed being under the engine?

Are you using bike headset bearings for the bushings?

Reduction unit bracket looks good. Do you have the upper bracket? It needs that bracket or it will twist and flex.

 

[fl250540]

I think they will be strong enough thier the same thickness as the oddy roll cage and thicker in the pivot area where the bolts go through. I got 5/8 copper bushings, welded washers on eash side of the neck and pressed the bushings into those. turned out good imo. Im still going to run a brace down from the roll cage for added strength.

 

[fl250540]

Going to build an upper brace for the reduction box.

 

[fl250540]

regretting buying cheap wire from ace, its causing allot of splatter. would of got more done tonight, didn't like welding in the garage with hot splatters flying everywhere.

 

[bighead]

Ody roll bars ar really thin. I can ping one with a slight hammer blow. I think that will be a week point and a bad one. Bike frame is light friend. Why not do the traditional swingarm setup that's been proven over time?

You life is riding on thin wall swing arm frame extension made from BMX bike frames? This needs to be the strongest part on your frame!!!!! You have force on the bushing. And then force again on the extensions. It's a bad design friend. If you need your frame longer then box off another 2"or 3". Then make traditional swing arm mounts.

IDK see what others say. If you ask me you will rip that thin wall tubbing bike frame out of the weld the first ride out.

 

[bighead]

Do you got enough room to mount the caliper for the brakes before you welded that reduction unit bracket?

Also grind the paint and rust off before you weld. You will get better welds.

 

[fl250540]

I agree with you, the more i think about it Im going to spend some cash and get more steel to build it stronger, I still want to use the bushings and 5/8 bolts. Steel is expensive here in hawaii.