FL250 With Yamaha 540 Sled Build

[fl250540]

The buggy is still in the rough draft stage of getting it done. The end product will be solid and clean. Goint to grind and go over allot of the welds, and bust all the rust, box stuff in. May take some time, but it will be slick when its done.

 

[fl250540]

To keep the engine low, i had to stretch the fram about a foot. It will be wider with the 400ex hubs on the rear and wheels.

 

[bighead]

To keep the engine low, i had to stretch the fram about a foot. It will be wider with the 400ex hubs on the rear and wheels.

Have fun turning around!

You can grind down the steering stops to get better turning angle.

 

[fl250540]

Yeah Im gonna have to. Once I get the basics done, I will focuse on making look good. Wonder if it would be possible to mount the engine behind the axle....

 

[fl250540]

Might be to much weight on the rear, would move the wheels closer though. Whay do yall think?

 

[fl250540]

I would like for it to work this way, just unsure of how it would perform. Most buggies engines are mounted behind there rear axle, but most buggies have independent suspension. the turning radious will be better. I might try to build it like this, any suggestions or opinions are welcome.

 

[bighead]

This is what I did.

Grab a six pack and a chair. You will figure it out.

I strongly sugest you keep it close to stock lenth. You buggy is going to be a mile long friend. I would go taller before I go longer....

 

[fl250540]

I can get the engine mounted lower than this, just seeing what it would look like.

 

[bighead]

I can get the engine mounted lower than this, just seeing what it would look like.

Where is your sled belt? I do not see that in your mock up? Are you having exhuast fitment problems? Is this why your thinking longer?

 

[bighead]

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/pilo...ssey-fl250-polaris-440-rear-suspension-2.html

 

[bighead]

Sorry friend, I just do not like the long look. Not bashing you just trying to help you get it right. It's your build though. So do what you like.

 

[fl250540]

If i make it longer then i can mount the engine low, the drive and driven clutch will be parrelel with the ground. I have the stock belt from the sled. Just brain storming befor I continue. Thanks for the advice, worked out good for other projects.

 

[bighead]

If i make it longer then i can mount the engine low, the drive and driven clutch will be parrelel with the ground. I have the stock belt from the sled. Just brain storming befor I continue. Thanks for the advice, worked out good for other projects.

Then go up right above the frame rail? This puts your clutch right in front and slightly above the driven clutch. Your pipe is going to be the hard part.

Like I said a few beers and a chair and stare at it for an hour. LOL

 

[fl250540]

LOL, Overall, I had to extend the frame 10 inchs, i think it looks dumb too, but if i put the axle in front of the engine, and the engine to the rear all the way, it dosn't seem like it would look to bad....I'll get a better idea with a cold one and better mock up next weekend.

 

[bighead]

Interesting...

 

[fl250540]

I agree...Going to go shorter with the hinge area, will still have room to run my exhaust between and under the rear end. all in all it will be about 4 inchs longer, bigger rims and tires should balance it out.

 

[fl250540]

Going to cut out the part where the tape measure starts. Got the 400ex hubs in splines match perfect. Add around 2 inches of width. Need 4/110 and 4/145 rims for the front...

 

[fl250540]

Also figured out how im going to mount the front brake master cylinder below the floor pan. both front and rear will be on the same lever like you suggested. should have some pics up soon.

 

[fl250540]

how tight should the belt be when its stopped, im going to use the lathe at work to hook up the driven clutch, taking 6mm out of it. Just wondering, cause im aiming to have the engine and rear end put together this weekend.

 

[bighead]

how tight should the belt be when its stopped, im going to use the lathe at work to hook up the driven clutch, taking 6mm out of it. Just wondering, cause im aiming to have the engine and rear end put together this weekend.

You using both sled clutches and the sled belt right? Then find out the center to center distance from the original sled. Then set it up that way. This takes the quess work out.

When I did my sled swap I made for way slotted holes so I can adjust as needed. If I was to do it again I would just measure the original center to center and set it up that way. BUT I was not using the sleds driven clutch. So I did the slotted holes to adjust as needed and when she ran best. As far as how the belt should fit you need to ask others. I am not to schooled on belt set up. But here is a good link to get you started.

http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=1034&location_id=3850

If you want to get anal you can make a bar to set your engine and clutch up. If you make the bar and when it slides freely on both shafts you know you have them in perfect line and the center to center is spot on.

Some pics to show you what I am talking about. In this pic the engine is hangin from straps. Once the bar slides freely on both shafts then make the motor mounts. You have to know the sleds center to center distance though. If you do not get this right you will blow thru belts and it will not shift right. You can use wood as well. This is the best way I know how to set them up.

You may have to join a sled forum looking for a member with the same sled to get the center to center.

Edit: I got you mixed up with another sled convesrion. Your using the ody driven clutch I see now. Yah just read that link above and go from there. I would make slots so you can adjust later on. Maybe not four way slots but slots so you can adjust the belt tension later on. If you were using both sled clutches then no slots would be needed.