DIY Frame or Ready Built

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anderkart

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I found some info stating that pump was sold in 2 versions:
One made to fit engines with a 3/4 output shaft,(although it didnt say if they were tapered or keyed PTO's)
And another version sold to fit engines with 5/8" output shafts with a threads at the end of the PTO.

You could try unscrewing it with a pair of channel lock pliers or vice grips. You'd just need to feed some clean rope down into your spark plug hole to stop the engine from turning over...


Or you could try calling that phone number on your pumps tag, I'd just tell them your pumps model number, and that your replacing your engine, and ask for advice on how to remove your pumps shaft adaptor from your old engines crankshaft.
 

fresh101

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I found some info stating that pump was sold in 2 versions:
One made to fit engines with a 3/4 output shaft,(although it didnt say if they were tapered or keyed PTO's)
And another version sold to fit engines with 5/8" output shafts with a threads at the end of the PTO.

You could try unscrewing it with a pair of channel lock pliers or vice grips. You'd just need to feed some clean rope down into your spark plug hole to stop the engine from turning over...


Or you could try calling that phone number on your pumps tag, I'd just tell them your pumps model number, and that your replacing your engine, and ask for advice on how to remove your pumps shaft adaptor from your old engines crankshaft.


Hello Ander, I called them and the technician said it that because of heat created do to the use, it must have bonded together, that I need to pry it. Now my question is where and how can I pry it, without making a hole to the casing?
 

fresh101

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Casing removed, but not the adapter!!!

Hello Guys, I got to remove the casing and the bearing but can't remove the gear/tooth adapter. I tried prying it but no luck:rolleyes3:, I was also affraid to make a hole on the housing. Anyone has any other idea now that is more visual with what i am dealing with?
 

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anderkart

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I'd try using 2 pry bars positioned directly across from each other, with a with some 1/4" steel plate between the bar and side cover. Nail bars or prybars with curved ends would help, and to minimise stress to the side cover I'd try to position them so the fulcrum point was as close to the shaft as posible.

Probably be a good idea to position the engine on its side with the shaft pointing down, so you could use some penetrating oil and gravity would help it soak down in-between overnight before prying.
 

fresh101

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Hello Ander, I tried what you have suggested but no luck, that thing is really stuck. I have removed alot of the parts from the engine and now I am stuck in this portion. I want this removed to start cleaning it and remove the governor and possibly add some internal performance parts. Please help
 

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fresh101

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got it, will try that tomorrow. Ander quick question, if I buy a performance cam would it be as easy as reinstalling the stock one after i brake the engine apart? I am asking as I am going to have engine open and working on it little by little, can I be the one doing the upgrade/exchange in parts. Thanks in advance
 

anderkart

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Yeah it kinda looks like a pickle fork with 3/4" spacing between the forks might just fit in the gap between your adaptor and crankshaft lip. If it fits in there you wouldnt be stressing the side cover like using a pickle fork with wider fork spacing. I was thinking If you have to use a wider fork, you could wedge some thick sheet metal between the fork and engine to help protect the sidecover from damage.

There's a pretty good cam installation guide here: http://www.affordablegokarts.com/Cam Installation.php
 

fresh101

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Yeah it kinda looks like a pickle fork with 3/4" spacing between the forks might just fit in the gap between your adaptor and crankshaft lip. If it fits in there you wouldnt be stressing the side cover like using a pickle fork with wider fork spacing. I was thinking If you have to use a wider fork, you could wedge some thick sheet metal between the fork and engine to help protect the sidecover from damage.

There's a pretty good cam installation guide here: http://www.affordablegokarts.com/Cam Installation.php

Thanks for the info. I have tried the fork and nothing, I am affraid of bending the shaft. I used a puller kit with bolts and after putting alot of torgue with a wrench, I got scared to pull the whole shaft out of the casing. That stuff is really stuck. I guess my boss is going to try using heat to see if it comes out.
 

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Honda GX160 prep for Performance Upgrade

Hello Ander, after 4 days of trying to remove this stupid adapter, it finally got off. It was not threaded, it was just hold by a key. I have to use some type of clamp that hug the shaft, cut of the front part of the adapter, use a claw type tool that hold to the clamp and with a long bolt in the middle to push the shaft while at the same time pull the clamp, on top of that I needed to use a compressor and impact gun to screw the bolt as it was extremely hard. I did cut off about 1/2" of the main shaft when cutting the front of the adapter. I hope the remainder of the shaft is long enough for the clutch or I will need to order a new shaft for it.

Pictures of the engine inside and out after sand blasting and deep cleaning. I greased the parts and housing a little, as I will be working on it little by little and don't want corrosion.
 

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fresh101

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When removing the shaft adapter for the sprayer portion, I accidentally cut off about 1/2" of the engine shaft. Will I need to buy a new shaft or is this one enought to put a clutch?
 

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anderkart

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When removing the shaft adapter for the sprayer portion, I accidentally cut off about 1/2" of the engine shaft. Will I need to buy a new shaft or is this one enought to put a clutch?

Is your clutch made to be installed inboard or outboard?
(that means with its drive gear facing towards or away from the engine)

Try sliding your clutch on both ways and post a couple side view pics showing how far the crank fits through your clutch.

Also, do you still have that 1/2" section of the crank you cut off?
 

fresh101

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Is your clutch made to be installed inboard or outboard?
(that means with its drive gear facing towards or away from the engine)

Try sliding your clutch on both ways and post a couple side view pics showing how far the crank fits through your clutch.

Also, do you still have that 1/2" section of the crank you cut off?

I will try the clutch later and post pictures.

the 1/2" section was into many pieces and put in the garbage.

Ander can you please see my other post after the shaft issue maybe you have answers.
 

brandongeiger2

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Is this cylinder considered flat top?

First off that's a piston not a cylinder and its not a flattop it's dished also there is no way of knowing displacement from pictures...Are you wondering the size of the cylinder head or the displacement of the entire stroke? I promise you the displacement is far higher than 18cc if its the engine displacement your looking for.
 

fresh101

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Sorry but I dont know the answers to your other questions.

I appologize Ander, thanks for the help.

First off that's a piston not a cylinder and its not a flattop it's dished also there is no way of knowing displacement from pictures...Are you wondering the size of the cylinder head or the displacement of the entire stroke? I promise you the displacement is far higher than 18cc if its the engine displacement your looking for.

Hello Brandon, sorry for saying cylinder instead of piston, yes thats what I meant. I am talking about the cylinder head size?

NOTE: I am asking because I am going to re-build this engine with performance parts and wanted to know what size to see if I am going to work with this same head or order one from here --> LINK

Thanks in advance
 

brandongeiger2

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Alright well the compression varies depending on the head size a smaller head will increase compression while a smaller one will decrease compression higher compression engines do perform better and have a higher power output, however they require 93 octane and dont even consider upgrading the head until you buy a billet connecting rod and flywheel some people even get a billet case cover too you need to make sure everything is upgraded and stronger when dealing with all the stress a higher compression engine creates.
I couldnt tell you what size head to go with i dont know all that much about head sizes i do know a gx 160 head will increase compression like the one here
But for more compression i would go with the 14cc head its the same price
 
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