anderkart
Moderator
Cool, they looked like they'd fit.
You'll need to put those 2 caliper bolt spacers back in your frame.
You'll need to put those 2 caliper bolt spacers back in your frame.
DIY Frame or Ready Built
- Thread starter fresh101
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fresh101
New member
Do you actually think it needs the spacer back in the right hand side, as I will be placing the caliper in the left hand side?
anderkart
Moderator
Your right, probably just on the left side.
fresh101
New member
Hello Ander, do you know the size of bolts I need to attach caliper to the frame? Is it bolts that goes stray through the frame and also passes through the caliper? Or does the caliper have threads on them?
anderkart
Moderator
I'm pretty sure that caliper has internal threads, so you'll probably need to bring it along to the hardware store. You'll want to set the caliper in place and take your length measurements through your frame including an extra 1/4" for lock and flat washers.
I've found the larger Ace hardware store locations usually stock a good selection of high quality Metric hardware. I always ask for the hardest/highest quality, bolts, washers and lock-nuts they have for my karts. I prefer stainless steel or Anodized when available.
I've found the larger Ace hardware store locations usually stock a good selection of high quality Metric hardware. I always ask for the hardest/highest quality, bolts, washers and lock-nuts they have for my karts. I prefer stainless steel or Anodized when available.
fresh101
New member
thanks buddy, I am waiting for the weekend to come to hopefully complete the kart.
fresh101
New member
Hello Guys, can someone tell me where can I find some 40mm cassettes with 72.80mm bolt spacing? I need it ASAP. Thanks
anderkart
Moderator
What happened? I thought that outlaw-to-win guy told you those cassettes he had would fit...
Nobody gives the mounting dimensions of cassettes, there usually just sold to fit specific brands/models.
If the only problem with your old cassettes are they're too thick, you could just take them to a machine shop and have them milled a little thinner for a fairly reasonable price.
I'll probably cost more, but you could just call the Birel/Freeline parts department, tell them your frames model # and order the correct ones: http://www.nexternal.com/mrp/birel--freeline-c12.aspx You might even ask them to measure their cassettes, so you'll be absolutely sure they'll fit...
Nobody gives the mounting dimensions of cassettes, there usually just sold to fit specific brands/models.
If the only problem with your old cassettes are they're too thick, you could just take them to a machine shop and have them milled a little thinner for a fairly reasonable price.
I'll probably cost more, but you could just call the Birel/Freeline parts department, tell them your frames model # and order the correct ones: http://www.nexternal.com/mrp/birel--freeline-c12.aspx You might even ask them to measure their cassettes, so you'll be absolutely sure they'll fit...
fresh101
New member
After 3 days they tell me they don't have it in stock and that they will receive them on Monday. I am trying to get everything before the weekend to finish the kart built.
anderkart
Moderator
If you can hold your old cassettes up to outside of the frame and see all the holes lining up perfectly, you could probably just get them milled thinner tomorrow.
Or being that your frame has spacers for the caliper mounting bolts, you could just cut that part off both your old cassettes yourself. All you need is a Jigsaw or sawzall with course metal blades. You could probably even use a hacksaw. If you wrapped masking tape all over the cassette it wouldnt scratch it up, then you could use files/sand paper to smooth the cut edge and make it look good. I'd take the bearings out first and it'd probably be a good idea to clamp the cassettes in a bench vice while cutting.
Or being that your frame has spacers for the caliper mounting bolts, you could just cut that part off both your old cassettes yourself. All you need is a Jigsaw or sawzall with course metal blades. You could probably even use a hacksaw. If you wrapped masking tape all over the cassette it wouldnt scratch it up, then you could use files/sand paper to smooth the cut edge and make it look good. I'd take the bearings out first and it'd probably be a good idea to clamp the cassettes in a bench vice while cutting.
fresh101
New member
I have sold the other cassettes as they did not fit.
I was trying to find them in maybe another website and I would have contacted them and request a faster shipping to receive before Saturday. Do you know any other website I can give a try?
I was trying to find them in maybe another website and I would have contacted them and request a faster shipping to receive before Saturday. Do you know any other website I can give a try?
anderkart
Moderator
I think Comet lists the same ones: http://www.cometkartsales.com/store/bearings/cassette.htm
anderkart
Moderator
fresh101
New member
I got the cassettes in and already installed.
Having problem with the rotor, hub, and/or caliper. The caliper cannot go all the way in because of brake pads touching the hub and in the other side touching the nuts. I was thinking of cutting just a little bit of the brake pads just so it clears the hub and the nuts. Please view the images
Pictures 4 & 5 is tie rods connections.
Is this the right way of connecting it? When I turn it doesn't seem to turn much. Another thing is when I turn to the right completely, the left tire lift up. When I try doing the same thing to the left completely the right hand side does not lift up. I was thinking of connecting both tie rods to the center hole but I am not sure if thats right.
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BRAKE-PADS1.jpg -
BRAKE-PADS2.jpg -
BRAKE-PADS3.jpg -
TIE-RODS1.jpg -
TIE-RODS2.jpg
fresh101
New member
Kart picture, how is coming along.
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WHOLE-KART.jpg
anderkart
Moderator
My Biesse kart has the same caliper as you. You cant see them in my pics, but my kart has flat washers installed between the rotor and hub
(at each of the 6 bolts) used as shims to center the rotor to the hub. I think maybe you just need to shim your rotor until its flush to
the left side of your hub like mine.
(at each of the 6 bolts) used as shims to center the rotor to the hub. I think maybe you just need to shim your rotor until its flush to
the left side of your hub like mine.
anderkart
Moderator
Check out this pic: http://www.kartforce.com.au/birel02.htm
I'm not sure, but I think you might have your spindles on the wrong sides...
You've got your tie rods connected to the pitman arm the way most all sprint karts normally do.
You can stack them both in the middle hole if you want to try, but It'll reduce the Ackerman effect: http://www.compgoparts.com/TechnicalResources/AckermanSteering.asp
You'll need to check your toe-in settings too.
I'm not sure, but I think you might have your spindles on the wrong sides...
You've got your tie rods connected to the pitman arm the way most all sprint karts normally do.
You can stack them both in the middle hole if you want to try, but It'll reduce the Ackerman effect: http://www.compgoparts.com/TechnicalResources/AckermanSteering.asp
You'll need to check your toe-in settings too.
fresh101
New member
what is toe-in setting? I think I got the ackerman effect. Is that good or bad? One tire turm to turn more than the other.
About the brake caliper and etc. when I placed the caliper with the rotor, it seemed it was aligned and didn't seem it need shims. I would not even be able to do that as the caliper cannot go far in to be able to mount as it touches the hub and nuts. Should I just shave the pads?
About spindles installed incorrectly. I have installed the spindle with the middle grove down, meaning the bulge on the spindle arms is up. Maybe like you said, it might have been installed incorrect.
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anderkart
Moderator
Yeah I realise you have the rotor aligned to the caliper now. What I'm suggestion is shimming between the rotor and hub just so the left side of the hub wont stick out further, then re-adjusting your hub over to the right of the axle further so the rotor is centered to the caliper. If you've got the wrong rotor and/or hub this might not solve your problem, and you'd need the correct parts or maybe your idea of cutting the pads will work fine.
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To set your toe-in, you'll need to first center your steering wheel, and then take measurements between your 2 front tires.
I block the front of the kart up off the ground and hold tire chalk up against the tire, and spin the wheel to scribe a reference line all the way around each tire. (it helps to brace your hand against something so your chalk line is accurate and doesn't wander back and fourth)
Then you accurately measure the distance across, between the 2 front tires, with measurements taken between the front and rear of the tires. Then you compare your 2 measurements to see if the front of the tires are pointing away from each other, (toed-out) or pointing towards each other, (that's toed-in)
I'd start with an adjustment of your front tires toed-in 1/8" and see how it works.
Adjusting more toe-in will usually reduce steering grip, but make the kart more stable going straight at high speeds.
Adjusting more toe-out will usually increase steering grip, but can make the kart wander or cause it to become twitchy/unpredictable while going fast on the straightaways.
Some racekarts work great with neutral toe-settings, (both tires aligned straight) you just have to experiment to see what you like best.
If you want to get real accurate with checking your toe-settings, do it with the wheels on the ground and somebody of your equal weight sitting in the kart, the weight will flex everything a bit and slightly change the test readings.
_____________
To set your toe-in, you'll need to first center your steering wheel, and then take measurements between your 2 front tires.
I block the front of the kart up off the ground and hold tire chalk up against the tire, and spin the wheel to scribe a reference line all the way around each tire. (it helps to brace your hand against something so your chalk line is accurate and doesn't wander back and fourth)
Then you accurately measure the distance across, between the 2 front tires, with measurements taken between the front and rear of the tires. Then you compare your 2 measurements to see if the front of the tires are pointing away from each other, (toed-out) or pointing towards each other, (that's toed-in)
I'd start with an adjustment of your front tires toed-in 1/8" and see how it works.
Adjusting more toe-in will usually reduce steering grip, but make the kart more stable going straight at high speeds.
Adjusting more toe-out will usually increase steering grip, but can make the kart wander or cause it to become twitchy/unpredictable while going fast on the straightaways.
Some racekarts work great with neutral toe-settings, (both tires aligned straight) you just have to experiment to see what you like best.
If you want to get real accurate with checking your toe-settings, do it with the wheels on the ground and somebody of your equal weight sitting in the kart, the weight will flex everything a bit and slightly change the test readings.
fresh101
New member
Ok I understand where to put the shims (like washers), but putting shims will make it stick out more than now. If I put any type of spacers like wasers in between rotor and hub makes it come out more.
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