DIY Frame or Ready Built

[anderkart]

Your correct, but after shimming a 1/4", you'd loosen the hub clamp bolts and slide the whole rotor/hub assembly over to the right a 1/4" to compensate...

You didnt post any pics of the right side of your rotor, do you have any clearance problems over there now?

 

[fresh101]

Your correct, but after shimming a 1/4", you'd loosen the hub clamp bolts and slide the whole rotor/hub assembly over to the right a 1/4" to compensate...

You didnt post any pics of the right side of your rotor, do you have any clearance problems over there now?

I got no clearance in either place, looking at it from the rear, the right side pad touches with hub and left side touches the nuts, not the bolts. In the pictures I did show both sides just that the right side I removed the brake pad thinking that it was in just one side but it wasn't, it turned out it was on both sides.

 

[anderkart]

Then it sounds like you have to make the choice of either getting the correct hub/rotor or to cut your pads.

 

[fresh101]

Check this engine out and tell me your opinion about using this for my kart. Thanks in advance

EDIT: Missing carburetor and maybe linkage and obvious gas tank.

1" Shaft = My clutch wont fit...

 

[anderkart]

I've never owned one like that, but the clutch and motor mount you have may not fit. You'd need to take some measurements to be sure but i'd expect it to have a 1" diamiter output shaft and a motor mounting pattern that's larger than the 5 or 6.5hp engines your motor mount is made to fit. I found a new carb sold online for $90 that you could use with a racekart fuel tank and pulse fuel pump. There's not very many race parts sold to fit that engine. But besides those issues an 8hp briggs would work fine on your kart.

 

[fresh101]

What should I do to start this engine? It has been sitting for a while without running.

ANSWERED: Perhaps put a crab, change oil, and new spark plug.

How can I clean it and etc., to a running/working codition? Thanks in advance

ANSWERED: Use brake cleaner, wire brush and wire wheel for drill.

This engine was given to me, so I might use it for my other kart. For the mount and clutch I bought, I might use a GX160 that I am getting for $50.

 

[anderkart]

Never know, might start right up with just a carb, but you might as well change the oil and get a new spark plug. I'd probably clean it by spraying brake cleaner and scrubbing with wire brushes and those little wire wheels sold to fit on a hand drill.

 

[fresh101]

Never know, might start right up with just a carb, but you might as well change the oil and get a new spark plug. I'd probably clean it by spraying brake cleaner and scrubbing with wire brushes and those little wire wheels sold to fit on a hand drill.

Should rust be also treated like mentioned above? brake cleaner, wire brush and wheels.

ANSWERED: Yes

How to remove this shaft adapter?

 

[souperman000]

the actual shaft you would attach something to doesnt look tapered to me. Are you asking about that little cone near the snap ring? Cant you tell by looking at it?

 

[landuse]

I can't really tell what I am looking at from those close-ups. Maybe take a pic zoomed out a bit so we can see whole engine and the crank

 

[fresh101]

Thanks for helping. This pictures are away from it not close-up like the others. Thanks again for the help

 

[landuse]

I am still not too sure. Is that a reduction case on your engine where you have just taken the cover off? I am not too sure what I am seeing. Is the toothed crank the engines, or is it something that slips over the engines crank?

I am going to have to assume that it is a straight keyed output shaft, but until you get all of that off your engine crank, I cannot be too sure.

 

[fresh101]

I am still not too sure. Is that a reduction case on your engine where you have just taken the cover off? I am not too sure what I am seeing. Is the toothed crank the engines, or is it something that slips over the engines crank?

I am going to have to assume that it is a straight keyed output shaft, but until you get all of that off your engine crank, I cannot be too sure.

Yes the tooth crank the engine.

Remember this engine wwas attached to sprayer and the box you see what the sprayer attachment. I have been trying to remove it completely but I am unsuccessful. I removed the bolts on the housing of the box and just finished removing the snap ring on the tooth shaft and can't still remove the casing or the tooth. Any idea how is this thing attached or how to remove?

 

[landuse]

Are there any set screws in the toothe crank that you are not taking off?

 

[fresh101]

havent checked or noticed any. let me go and see, hold.

EDIT: No set in screws. I spin it around checked it and nothing at all, neither in the cone area nor tooth.

 

[landuse]

You might have to use some penetrating oil to get that thing off. Put a 2X4 on the end of the crank and give it a whack. The jarring might break it loose

 

[fresh101]

You might have to use some penetrating oil to get that thing off. Put a 2X4 on the end of the crank and give it a whack. The jarring might break it loose

You mean the end, as the tip (the front part) of the tooth section?

 

[anderkart]

Hey Fresh, what brand/model is that spray pump unit?

 

[landuse]

You mean the end, as the tip (the front part) of the tooth section?

Yup. Just don't hit it directly with the hammer

 

[fresh101]

Thanks for the help Landuse, I will try it later when I get a piece of 2x4.

Hey Fresh, what brand/model is that spray pump unit?

the unit is:
Hypro Corporation
Model#: D30GRGI (or something like that, hard to tell)