Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
How's the appliance paint working for you?
How about a nickle review?
How about a nickle review?
Diamonite Electrathon America Racer
- Thread starter Functional Artist
- Start date
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey WTR,
I'ma likin' it more-n-more
...both the spray on version
...& the brush on
I can get a better "flow out" (uniform glossy/smooth surface) with the spray kind
...but, with the brush on kind, usin' a roller, I can cover a whole lot of "real estate" real quick like
...& get really good coverage
...& still get a reasonably smooth finish
&
It seems to "really" create a good-n-hard finish (as advertised) too
* I tried the "scratch" test in a few different places
...on both the regular black Rustoleum spray paint & this Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy paint
&
The Appliance Epoxy seems ta create a way harder scratch resistant surface/finish
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Workin' on/comin' up with a plan for the FG
OK so, we have a mold (on a solid base)
...with a "multi-planed" cockpit "hump"
...a "nose" w/ bottom "wrap-around" (on top)
...a "tail" w/ bottom "wrap-around" (on top)
...& (~2") flangette sides
The fiberglass will "lay" on all of the mold surfaces (this blue line)
For the first layer, I'ma gonna cover the entire thing in FG (fiberglass) CSM (chopped strand mat)
...the second layer in 1708 (bi-axial cloth) in a right leanin' orientation
...& the third layer in 1708 (bi-axial cloth) in a left leanin' orientation
Havin' the FG strands "criss-cross"
...should help make 'er good-n-strong
I'ma thinkin' them (3) layers should B good, for most of the structure
...but, I'ma also, gonna add some of the 1708 bi-axial cloth
...in a few strategic locations
...in an up & down orientation
...for additional re-enforcement
* Like in the rear wall of the cockpit area
...& on the front wall, of cockpit (up to the "nose")
OK so, we have a mold (on a solid base)
...with a "multi-planed" cockpit "hump"
...a "nose" w/ bottom "wrap-around" (on top)
...a "tail" w/ bottom "wrap-around" (on top)
...& (~2") flangette sides
The fiberglass will "lay" on all of the mold surfaces (this blue line)
For the first layer, I'ma gonna cover the entire thing in FG (fiberglass) CSM (chopped strand mat)
...the second layer in 1708 (bi-axial cloth) in a right leanin' orientation
...& the third layer in 1708 (bi-axial cloth) in a left leanin' orientation
Havin' the FG strands "criss-cross"
...should help make 'er good-n-strong
I'ma thinkin' them (3) layers should B good, for most of the structure
...but, I'ma also, gonna add some of the 1708 bi-axial cloth
...in a few strategic locations
...in an up & down orientation
...for additional re-enforcement
* Like in the rear wall of the cockpit area
...& on the front wall, of cockpit (up to the "nose")
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Before getting any cloth out, gotta get some measurements
&
Because of the big transition differences in the surfaces (side to side & front to back)
...we can't just lay a big piece (like a blanket)
...& just "work it in"
So, probably best
...& much easier to work
...ta just "piece 'er together"
Side flangettes down into the "trough"
...& probably ~1/2 way up the sides (~12")
I got out a roll of 1oz. CSM
...& after some mearurin' & markin'
...I went ta rippin'
* The (2) smaller pieces are ~14" ta easily cover the 12" we needed on the sides
...& the larger piece is ta cover the majority of the "hump"
** The (2) smaller pieces have straight/cut edges on (1) side, ta go along the edges
...but, they are torn, on the inner sides ta help blend/melt together, with the piece goin' over the "hump"
...& the edges of the "hump" piece are torn too
Tearin' method (table, guide board & gloves)
Pretty sure I tore enough ta cover...everything
&
Because of the big transition differences in the surfaces (side to side & front to back)
...we can't just lay a big piece (like a blanket)
...& just "work it in"
So, probably best
...& much easier to work
...ta just "piece 'er together"
Side flangettes down into the "trough"
...& probably ~1/2 way up the sides (~12")
I got out a roll of 1oz. CSM
...& after some mearurin' & markin'
...I went ta rippin'
* The (2) smaller pieces are ~14" ta easily cover the 12" we needed on the sides
...& the larger piece is ta cover the majority of the "hump"
** The (2) smaller pieces have straight/cut edges on (1) side, ta go along the edges
...but, they are torn, on the inner sides ta help blend/melt together, with the piece goin' over the "hump"
...& the edges of the "hump" piece are torn too
Tearin' method (table, guide board & gloves)
Pretty sure I tore enough ta cover...everything
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Seems like we gettin' close ta "doin' the thing"
I set the mold
...up on sawhorses
...& up under a shelter thing
But
I/we needed a bigger
...more flatter
...& even a bit lower, work table
So
I made (1)
...outta some scraps
...& a skid/pallet (I came across that had a nearly whole sheet of "Waferboard" type plywood stuff on it)
...that was wider
...longer
...& a few inches lower (as seen in the pic)
* Notice the scrap wood, left over from the skid/pallet (mainly wanted the big 'ol piece of "free" plywood stuff
...& the (3) long "free" 2 x 4's
Yup, that's...better
Did a quick "once over" with a piece of fine Scotch Brite (ta get rid of any "nibs" & kinda like a "cleaning")
Made sure ta get the edges in between, where the removable sections "mate up"
Did the "nose" & the "tail" & "lids" & the Screw Jack "plugs" too
I set the mold
...up on sawhorses
...& up under a shelter thing
But
I/we needed a bigger
...more flatter
...& even a bit lower, work table
So
I made (1)
...outta some scraps
...& a skid/pallet (I came across that had a nearly whole sheet of "Waferboard" type plywood stuff on it)
...that was wider
...longer
...& a few inches lower (as seen in the pic)
* Notice the scrap wood, left over from the skid/pallet (mainly wanted the big 'ol piece of "free" plywood stuff
...& the (3) long "free" 2 x 4's
Yup, that's...better
Did a quick "once over" with a piece of fine Scotch Brite (ta get rid of any "nibs" & kinda like a "cleaning")
Made sure ta get the edges in between, where the removable sections "mate up"
Did the "nose" & the "tail" & "lids" & the Screw Jack "plugs" too
Functional Artist
Well-known member
After blowin' off the dust
I gave the "nose" a good coat of FG mold parting wax
...& then, "buffed it off"
Up closer view
I gave main section & the "tail" a good coat of FG mold parting wax too
...& then, "buffed it off" again/too
Up closer view (of the aforementioned corner)
I gave the "nose" a good coat of FG mold parting wax
...& then, "buffed it off"
Up closer view
I gave main section & the "tail" a good coat of FG mold parting wax too
...& then, "buffed it off" again/too
Up closer view (of the aforementioned corner)
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Up next was/were the Screw Jacks
So shinny
* "Gooped up" the sides pretty goodly too
Polished/waxed the pennies/slugs too
After "goopin' up the Screw Jack "socket"
...I installed the penny/slug
Looks like this, after installin' the Screw Jack "plugs"
Another view
Another/overall view
So shinny
* "Gooped up" the sides pretty goodly too
Polished/waxed the pennies/slugs too
After "goopin' up the Screw Jack "socket"
...I installed the penny/slug
Looks like this, after installin' the Screw Jack "plugs"
Another view
Another/overall view
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Tomorrows forecast 
...& I gots the day off (mostly...ya know)
...so, I'ma thinkin' "tomorrows" the day
So, we best get this "show on the road"
I got the "tail" section installed
...onto the main section
Pretty tight "fit"
Installation method
...which secures the "tail' to the main section
...& aligns the (2) sections...literally, laterally, vertically & horizontally
* Hangin' off the edge of the table for illustration purposes (only)
...as both "ends of the mold will sit squarely & securely on the table
...durin' all FG work
Got the "nose installed too (same method)
&
Overall..."it" looks like this
Then, we needs the "lids" (or/actually the bottoms) on each "end"
Looks like this, up inside the "nose" with the "lid" on
Looks like this, up inside the "tail" with the "lid" on
** Also, seems ta be pretty tight "fits"
...& I gots the day off (mostly...ya know)
...so, I'ma thinkin' "tomorrows" the day
So, we best get this "show on the road"
I got the "tail" section installed
...onto the main section
Pretty tight "fit"
Installation method
...which secures the "tail' to the main section
...& aligns the (2) sections...literally, laterally, vertically & horizontally
* Hangin' off the edge of the table for illustration purposes (only)
...as both "ends of the mold will sit squarely & securely on the table
...durin' all FG work
Got the "nose installed too (same method)
&
Overall..."it" looks like this
Then, we needs the "lids" (or/actually the bottoms) on each "end"
Looks like this, up inside the "nose" with the "lid" on
Looks like this, up inside the "tail" with the "lid" on
** Also, seems ta be pretty tight "fits"
Functional Artist
Well-known member
Hey Grizz,
I'ma lovin the nice weather
Even got my "fairweather friend" (ElMoto) out
...& took 'er for a "spin"
...up ta Harbor Freight ta gets me a new tarp
* Hi Ducky
Functional Artist
Well-known member
First thing ta do, the next morning, after a quick "blow off" (ta make sure nuthin' settled on our nice-n-waxed surface)
...was to apply a coat of PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol)
This is some really thick stuff
...but, runs really, really easy
Ta-Da
But, if ya take a closer look
...there are runs on the "nose"
Runs on the "tail"
...& more runs on the sides
All of this is after lots & lots of "run mitigation"
OMG
It'll B fine
...it'll B fine
...it'll...B...fine
...was to apply a coat of PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol)
This is some really thick stuff
...but, runs really, really easy
Ta-Da
But, if ya take a closer look
...there are runs on the "nose"
Runs on the "tail"
...& more runs on the sides
All of this is after lots & lots of "run mitigation"
OMG
It'll B fine
...it'll B fine
...it'll...B...fine