Diamonite Electrathon America Racer

[Functional Artist]

This "backwards/inside out" sculpture is just about done
...so, about time ta, get 'er sealed up

Nose section (inverted)

Another view of the nose section (facing down)

Another view of the nose section (inverted again)

Another view of the nose section (facing down, again)

 

[Functional Artist]

Added some strategically placed holes

Well...since no one else asked...what's up wit this?

I gots/am tryin' an idea
...that may be beneficial
...or could be a total "flop"

* We gonna find out...together

I'ma thinkin' they B beneficial
...so, let's call 'em "screw jacks"
&
If they don't "end up" workin' too good
...we'll call 'em "screw ups"

A technical issue was
...them holes are 1 3/4"
...but, when I cut 'em out, there is a "big gap"
...between the "plugs" & the holes, in the mold (due to the thickness of the hole saw blade)

So, I cut some bigger "plugs" outta some scrap material

Usin' a 2" hole saw

But, NOW we have 2" "plugs"
...& 1 3/4" holes??

DIY wood lathe "Chuck parts"

Let's "do" (2) "plugs" at a time
...whilest bringin' 'em "down to" the 1 3/4" spec/goal

A view of the other side

Mounted in the DIY Wooden Lathe "Motorizer"
...& "functions" about/as pictured

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

...something about gripping your wood....?

 

[Functional Artist]

...something about gripping your wood....?

Kinda
...but, NOT like that

Like this

Thess "plugs" started off ~1 7/8"
...& are now ~1 3/4"
Lathe debris

The (2) piece "unit" looked like this
...after "turning" (technical term...it really is)

 

[Functional Artist]

Next step was to bevel the edges, of the "plugs"

* Used the same DIY lathe technique
...just did 'em individually

** We want the "top" of the "plugs" to "fit" snuggly (technical term)
...in the holes, of the mold

Like this
...but, we don't want them to "bind" in the holes, when "jacking"/whilst "in motion"

The "plugs" on the left have already been beveled

 

[Functional Artist]

Now we can use the center/pilot hole in the "plug"
...ta make a centered hole, in the base of the mold holes

Like this

Then, we can use a 3/4" Spade bit (wood drill bit)
...along with them holes
...ta make a "lowered" area
...in the bottom of the mold hole

This is where the "lifting mechanism" will be installed

Yup, it's just a T-Nut
...& after installation, looks like this

* Nice-n-flush, with the bottom of the mold hole

 

[Functional Artist]

Ain't the end
...of the 1/4" bolt
...gonna "poke" thru
...the 1/4" hole
...in the "plug"?

Yes...yes, it would
...but, not if we install a "blocker" of some kind

Blocker?

Basically, we need (6) ~3/4" "washers"
...but, without any holes in 'em

So, "slugs"
...like them "knock-outs" from electrical boxes?

Yup, exactly
...but, where do ya find/get (6) ~3/4" "slugs" when ya need 'em?

 

[Denny]

Your breaker box when wifey ain’t looking?

 

[Functional Artist]

Your breaker box when wifey ain’t looking?

Hey Denny,

Seems like she is always lookin'

I was thinkin' along the same "lines"
...& found an old switch box, that has some knock-outs (slugs) in it
...but, only (4) are ~3/4"
...& this "project" requires (6)

* See how the 1/4" bolt will "go thru" the 1/4" hole in the "plugs"?
...the need for a "blocker"
...& the cheap "slug" solution (I found)

Total cost only ~6 cents ($0.06)

Created some 3/4" "slug seats"

 

[Functional Artist]

Set (1) of the "plugs" in the receptacle (hole)
...& it seems ta set pretty level

* See how the fiberglass piece (represented by the level) will "set/lay" over the "screw jack"?

The FG piece shouldn't even know it's up/under there

This is how it looks after ~10 "turns" on/of the bolt (~1/4")

* See how the fiberglass piece (represented by the level) will "lift/raise" up with the "screw jack"?

* Screw jack at (~1/2") of lift

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Holey moldy!

 

[Functional Artist]

First tried some "fine" Scotch Brite ta sand/smooth off the Sanding Sealer

The Scotch Brite seemed a bit too "fine"
...so, I tried some 240 sandpaper
...& then, used the Scotch Brite for the "final" smoothin'

Used some Satin Black spray paint ta seal up the bottom & back sides of the "raw" bare MDF (wood)

Did the back side of the tops/"lids" too

* Notice how the Sanding Sealer (around the edge) created a better surface
...for the paint to "lay" on

Upper closer view

 

[Functional Artist]

Painted the inside surfaces, of the nose & tail mold sections
...& worked on the center section (background) whilst the paint dried

Used/tried "this stuff"
...it's supposed ta produce an ultra-hard finish

Nose after a few coats

Tail after a few coats

* Seems like there are some "dry areas" on some of the sides (end grains)
...but, I'ma thinkin a couple of coats of wax
...& a good coat of the PVA
...& we "should be good"

** Learn as ya go
...&/so, I'll try ta "seal up" the "end grains" the center section...more better

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

I dont know about that appliance paint, but the rustolium I've used, be careful with your coat application times. It says on the can. Either with in 15 minutes or wait 24 hours or something like that.
Ive waited too long after the 15 and it will orange peel. Seems to take forever to dry.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Sealing up "end grain" on MDF is not a task for liquids of any kind, they will continue to soak in and cause some degree of swelling of the edges. I recommend using a caulk (a paintable caulk). I have used that appliance paint on plywood bathroom cabinet doors; primer, spray, sand, spray, sand, spray. Should be an excellent result.

 

[Master Hack]

This is so far beyond my skill level it aint funny.
woodworking is not in my toolbox.
even if its not real wood.

 

[Functional Artist]

I dont know about that appliance paint, but the rustolium I've used, be careful with your coat application times. It says on the can. Either with in 15 minutes or wait 24 hours or something like that.
Ive waited too long after the 15 and it will orange peel. Seems to take forever to dry.

Hey WTR,

I have found that this is why reading the directions is so important
...'cause stuff "changes" sometimes/after a while

Here is a pic of the directions on a can of regular Rustoleum spray paint

Says ta apply a second coat or Clear coat within 1 hour or after 48 hrs

Here is a pic of the directions on a can of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy spray paint
Says ta apply a second coat within 1/2 hour or after 1 week

* Quite different

 

[Functional Artist]

Sealing up "end grain" on MDF is not a task for liquids of any kind, they will continue to soak in and cause some degree of swelling of the edges. I recommend using a caulk (a paintable caulk). I have used that appliance paint on plywood bathroom cabinet doors; primer, spray, sand, spray, sand, spray. Should be an excellent result.

Hey Ez,

Seems like this "is" what the Sanding Sealer stuff was/is for
...ta kinda "soak into, dry/harden & clog up" the end grain/pores

After some evaluation, it seems like some of the areas I was tryin ta "seal up' were really/extra rough
...& I was "expectin' too much"

On the main section of mold, I'll try-n-smooth things out more better before sealing

Seemed ta smooth-out pretty well after some sandin'

Yup, I agree about painting, sanding & re-painting
...wood like this
...makes for a much better result

 

[Functional Artist]

This is so far beyond my skill level it aint funny.
woodworking is not in my toolbox.
even if its not real wood.

Hey T,

Workin' with different kinds of materials (wood, metal, composites etc.)
...is just like workin' with different kinds of tools (wrenches, plyers, vise grips, welder, grinder etc.)
...&/or/even different kinds of fasteners (screws, nuts & bolts, welding, glue etc.)

Ain't NUTHIN' to it
...but, to do it

After aquirin' some experience
...it basically adds "arrows" to your "quiver"

 

[Master Hack]

Ain't NUTHIN' to it
...but, to do

Nope! Ain't that easy. Steel/ aluminum is consistant. Every piece is purdy much the same.
No two pieces of wood are the same.