Diamonite Electrathon America Racer

[Whitetrashrocker]

Actually the new term is "Sigma".


Wife's a teacher.

 

[Master Hack]

Actually the new term is "Sigma".

Just doesn't have that ring toit.

so yer always on the cutting edge of cool.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Nothing new under the sun. We had Pauly Shore.

 

[Master Hack]

A pic is worth a thousand words.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Thank you for not posting a thousand words.

 

[Master Hack]

Due to the poor ratings we recieved on our first demo video, we are posting the real deal. WE are of the opinion that the DIY film inspectors/censors are responsible for the poor ratings. So before further misrepresentation is done we are posting the real deal. In order to do so our Ace machinists have to stop making an actual high quality part to allow the film crew in. This is counter to our policy, which is "do not feed the machinists" Wait! thats not it. maybe it is "do not disturb"? We're plenty disturbed already.

IMG 4764

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[Master Hack]

There is a little gapiosis here. Due to the plastic was cast there is a gap where the bolts come through. The wheel could be machined flat, but I thing some shims (washers) would be mo bedder. IF the brake rotor should run out upon final assembly then a few shims would be a easy fix.
Making the wheel flat, is gonna cause some clearance problems. Oh and yer gonna need longer bolts.
Yer the boss here, speak yer mind!

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Beautiful work there Hack.

 

[Master Hack]

Thanks!

 

[Denny]

Looks good.

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey T,

Yup, that my friend, is a World-Class High-Performance part

Functional Art...I must say

Yup, I noticed the "lip"

Close up

My original thought was to just "grind it off"...um...I mean "machine it flat"
...seems like it would "fit" better or be more secure or firmly mounted (without the "lip)
...but, I'm "open" to discussing different options

 

[Master Hack]

I'll investigate further. standby for a full report.

 

[Master Hack]

So heres yer report.
Turning that surface flat could be a good solution, although turning things like that can be scary.
I always fear removing material (plastic) from parts like that weakens the part. Probably of no concern in this instance.
Ya never know when ya miht encounter a plastic feature that is hollow. Probably no worry here. Not removing that much.
The surface in question is going to have to be turned out to where the through bolt holes are. Cuz it ain't flat.
The wheel halves should be identical, so if l turn these two halves you should be set.
Either way is good. It will only take a few minutes to turn. Remember, ya can take it off but ya can't put it back on.

 

[Denny]

You can with a plastic welder!

 

[Master Hack]

I had the grandbrat show mw how to do the high tech arrows and text!

 

[Functional Artist]

The surface in question is going to have to be turned out to where the through bolt holes are. Cuz it ain't flat.
The wheel halves should be identical, so if l turn these two halves you should be set.
Either way is good. It will only take a few minutes to turn. Remember, ya can take it off but ya can't put it back on.

Hey T,

Good eye! I didn't even notice the bolting surfaces were "off" a bit

Yea, I agree the rim halves seem identical
...so, if ya if ya can "true em' up"/turn 'em down a bit (whilst removing the "lip") that would be great

Then I'd have (2) "machined" inside rim 1/2's (for mounting the rotor's)
...that I can then, put together, with (2) of the unmachined rim 1/2's, that I still have

* Love them "high tech" arrows
...learnin' somethin' new, everyday

 

[Functional Artist]

Alzo/FYI
...the beforementioned creation with the "curved bottom & sides"
...is NOW to be used as a mold
...to make a bottom 1/2 of our monocoque out of fiberglass

Now, how ta make the beforementioned creation
...but, full size
...& outta what???

Well, it'sa still WINTER here in Toledo
...but, Ima gettin'a a bit antsy (technical term) ta make some REAL progress on this monocoque project

So, after a bit of contemplation (thinkin')
...I'ma thinkin'...maybe...WOOD

MDF (medium density fiber) board ta be more specifico

I figured some 1/2" MDF for the main structure
...& maybe some 1/8" MDF, ta help make them curves
but
The 1/8" MDF didn't co-operate, too good (makin' them curves)
...& was quickly BANNED from the project (your FIRED...get outta here)

So, I just continued working on the main structure (sides, nose & back panel)
...whilst thinkin' about plan B (a "liner")

 

[Functional Artist]

From my research, there seems to be (2) main ways of making "shaped" stuff outta fiberglass
1.) Direct construction: Make the shape you want outta Styrofoam or wood or???
...& then, cover it with a few layers of fiberglass
* Sometimes the "inner" material is removed
...& sometimes the inner material is left in place, to help with strength/stiffness

2.) Molded construction: Make the shape you want out of...whatever
...then, coat it with a releasing agent
...& then, cover that shape with a few layers of fiberglass

Then, after the fiberglass cures, "pop" it off the inner form
...& now, you have a "mold"

A "mold" like this can/should be usable to make several identical "body parts"


Like I mentioned, most "molds" for making something out of fiberglass, is made outta fiberglass
...with a smooth interior
...& nice-n-radiused seams, edges & corners
But,
Since it's still kinda WINTER here
...& I'ma gettin "antsy"
...I'ma tryin' something different

OK...now...back to the MDF monocoque mold

We need a kinda solid (not porous)
...but, also kinda flexible, material to line the mold
...& it's gotta be conformable to the "diamond" concept I'ma using

Hmmm...maybe...some Formica (countertop covering) material
...& as I mentioned previously, all of the required "pieces" can be harvested from a 4' x 8' sheet of material
...& I even found a slightly damaged piece in the "scratch-n-dent" area, of a local plywood supplier for ~1/2 price ($25.00)

Slight damage (~2" long crack)

I contact coated both the "base" MDF & the back side of the piece of formica with contact cement

* Notice, I didn't coat the rear ~20% of the piece of formica
...& also, the "back panel" (far right)
...so, they wouldn't "stick" down/together (yet)

** FYI back panel is "set" on a ~60* angle

Also, did a front panel or "nose"

After the cement dried (~1/2 hour)
...I just aligned 'em (the formica with the MDF)
...& "stuck" or bonded (technical term)'em together

 

[Denny]

I thought stuck was the technical term.

 

[Master Hack]

I thought stuck was the technical term

Thats "suck" not stuck!





I'm feeling the pressure.....
Better get off my azz!