Karttekk
Well-known member
The dangling wire is for the low oil cutoff which is disconnected. I switched from the worn stock engine to a Predator I had put together from a box. At least it was free.
Top job of going through this.Much better pictures. You're missing a fuse holder. Part of it is A and it looks like the other part is D. The fat positive battery wire connects to the solenoid post where that socket wire B is connected or behind it. It looks like it was connected to C at one point. That is a power feed from the key switch. The starter on my kart doesn't have a solenoid, it has a relay with one positive post. The fat black wire running on top of the engine looks like a main starter wire. There should be a fat red wire from the battery to one solenoid post and the other fat red wire runs from the other solenoid post into the starter. The solenoid is basically a relay. The fat battery ground wire bolts to the fan shroud where the green wire is. Pull the boot back where that socket is & see if there's a post behind it. Get a fuse holder before you connect any hot wires. If something goes sideways with no fuse things will start burning. Here's a fuse holder: https://www.bmikarts.com/In-line-Fuse-Holder--Includes-20-Amp_p_25124.html. I'll include a picture of one that's open. I wouldn't worry about the key switch just yet. Connect a fuse holder, attach the battery wires then jump the solenoid posts to see if the engine cranks. Put a fuse holder between A and D. Put a fat red positive wire with an eyelet on it from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid post where D is. Put a butt connector from B to C.
www.gokartmasters.com
www.gokartmasters.com
I usually go with what the factory suggests. This is what Hammerhead Performance offers.Karttekk .... what's your thought on a 5ah vs 14ah battery. I know what ah is and what it does but I figured since the charging system on the kart keeps the battery charged and lights and horn run off the charging system as well why spend more on a 14ah battery.