Damien

[Functional Artist]

Now that we have a steering support, lets get to work on the steering column.

We'll need some 5/8" steel rod (steering shaft), a couple of pieces of pipe (bushing holders) & a couple of plastic bushings (greasable bushings).

Over/under seemed to give us the best angle.
(over top of the axle & under the steering support)

Made sure it was nice-n-centered & tacked 'em down.

Had to sacrifice a bushing (welding heat) for alignment purposes. ("took" one for the team)

Double checked everything & then welded 'em on good

* & just look at all of that room! (could probably fit a recliner in there)

 

[Tpdingo]

Get the pitchforks and torches, and lets to go the Functional Artist's house until he gives us Rack and Pinion steering!!

Haha....its still going to rock without it

 

[Functional Artist]

Get the pitchforks and torches, and lets to go the Functional Artist's house until he gives us Rack and Pinion steering!!

Haha....its still going to rock without it

Keepin' it simple

Sometimes, less = more

Less moving parts = less to go wrong
Less parts = less weight
Mostly DIY = less cost

Never had/drove a kart with rack-n-pinion steering.

Is there some sort of benefit?
...or just a more complicated way of doing the same thing.

like a Rube Goldberg device type thing?

 

[Tpdingo]

I've driven one with kind of rack and pinion steering. It was some older bumper cars that had the motor in the front and a gear ratio to spin the entire motor. Those karts are just so much fun to spin the wheel around to go into reverse and the wheel is just so light to fling around!

But for a proper go kart unless it weighs like 600lbs I don't see a need for R&P steering.

 

[Functional Artist]

Now, that we have a steering shaft next, we need to make a "foot" to connect the tie rod ends to.

I'ma gonna make one with (3) holes ~3/4" apart.

This way when we get 'er going, I can try a few tests (in the different holes) to see how different length levers affect the steering.

These tests should give us some necessary info to help figure the ideal "length of foot".

I used a 1/8" x 1" x 4" piece of steel.
Measured, marked & drilled (3) 5/16" holes & (1) 5/8" hole.
Slid the 5/8" hole over the end of the steering shaft, leaving ~1/8" of the shaft stickin' out, for welding.
Held 'er square & welded 'er on.

I also made up a couple of tie rods. (~10" of 5/16" rod with ~3/4" of each end threaded)

* The red 5/16" rod came from an old Frito Lay potato chip wire rack display.

 

[Functional Artist]

Oh ya, I double checked the clearance, nope, no rubbin'

Between the tires & the frame, in the front or back, on the left or right (not even close)

The tie rods themselves, where they go thru the frame, clear nicely & the front "hoops' help protect the steering components too

 

[Functional Artist]

Oh yea thanks pal, you had to mention the Ariel Atom

My left brain is already workin' on "how to" construct a (kart size) chassis
...totally against my will

While doin' research on the Ariel Atom, I came across the Ariel Nomad.
Its an "off road" version of the Atom.

I wasn't sure about the "design" at first, but it grew on me "real quick like".

Now, my left brain is workin' on a "mini" Nomad.

Hope your happy now.

 

[Functional Artist]

Winter has arrived here in Toledo.
High temp today is supposed to be ~35* with snow flurries.

So, progress has slowed dramatically.

But, there is other stuff that needs to be done.

I have been looking for better brakes.
Now, that were able go over 20MPH being able to stop is becoming more & more important.
A rotor & caliper seem to provide the best braking "action" for a manual set up.

But, they seem to be kind of expensive (IMO) just for a simple go kart.

Ex:
at BMI they want ~20.00 for a simple steel rotor
https://www.bmikarts.com/Brake-Rotor-with-1-Hub-_p_612.html

...or a fancier one (on sale ~$10.00) https://www.bmikarts.com/8-Brake-Rotor--Gold-or-Black_p_609.html

...but, then we'll need a hub (~$17.95 on sale) https://www.bmikarts.com/Sprocket-Brake-Hub-with-3-18-Bolt-Pattern-_p_1383.html

...& then, ~$25.00 for a simple caliper
https://www.bmikarts.com/Mechanical-Disc-Caliper-Assembly_p_4922.html

So, we're talkin' ~$50.00 (with shipping) just to add a disc brake to a kart.


Lookin around, I found a rotor & caliper combo for ~15.00 shipped.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Its for an electric scooter or pocket bike but, looks like it will work on a kart too.

So, I went ahead & ordered a couple. (for test purposes)
...that's (2) for less than the price of (1)

 

[Tpdingo]

Go with this one: https://www.gopowersports.com/go-ka...vg_oKBvs1dz54hImG3W8nlVFz4F-wsoBoCxVcQAvD_BwE

Stops very very quickly. I have a kart with that scooter craptastic brake and well.....it works better as a break than a brake. It stops like crap.

Also...snow? SNOW?!? DAMIEN SNOWDONUTS!!!

 

[Functional Artist]

Go with this one: https://www.gopowersports.com/go-ka...vg_oKBvs1dz54hImG3W8nlVFz4F-wsoBoCxVcQAvD_BwE

Stops very very quickly. I have a kart with that scooter craptastic brake and well.....it works better as a break than a brake. It stops like crap.

The set I referred to (on eBay) looks like the same set up, that is on our Serengetti Badger E450 mini bike & it has very good stopping action.

I couldn't pass 'em up for the price & I already have them.

I'll let ya'all know how well they work. (or not)

 

[Functional Artist]

Looking for a hub to mount the brake rotor on to Damien's axle.

I looked at many of the standard hubs, for sprockets & rotors
...but it looks like a lot of work to ream out the center hole, of the rotor (to ~ 1 1/2")
...& then, to center & drill the bolt holes.

Plus, the hubs cost ~$15.00 - $20.00, adds more mass for the axle to motivate & is also more overall weight on the kart.

Then, I thought maybe I can just mount the rotor to the side of a small sprocket
...& use that as a hub. (~$5.00) https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...ckets/15T-1-Bore-35P-Sprocket-1-2413-15-E.axd

Thinkin' it thru, the 60t sprocket we got from Surplus Center ($26.00) https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brand...ional/60T-1-Bore-35P-Sprocket-1-2413-60-E.axd has a nice big & flat area on it.

Hmmmm

It looks like, if I mount the brake rotor directly to the "driven" sprocket, it will not interfere with the chain & there also seems to be plenty of room for the caliper.

I'ma gonna give it a try.

So, I used a step drill bit, the 1" "step" fit in the 1" axle hole nicely & the next step (1 1/8") fit the center hole of the rotor pretty close.

* I added a piece of vinyl tape to the step bit, to add some "snugness" (technical term)

Then, marked the spots for the bolt holes, center punched 'em, drilled 'em & tapped 'em (with some 1/4" x 24 fine threads).

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

That's nice work. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Tpdingo]

Make sure when hooking it up to use a brake cable and not a standard throttle cable.

Looking good...

 

[J.S.@SMS]

I suggest that (for safety reasons) you use some good locktite on those bolts. It doesn't need to be the permanent thread-lock, it just needs to be strong enough to keep those bolts from backing out while riding.

 

[Tpdingo]

I suggest that (for safety reasons) you use some good locktite on those bolts. It doesn't need to be the permanent thread-lock, it just needs to be strong enough to keep those bolts from backing out while riding.

Not like I haven't had that happen to me...twice.

 

[Functional Artist]

I suggest that (for safety reasons) you use some good locktite on those bolts. It doesn't need to be the permanent thread-lock, it just needs to be strong enough to keep those bolts from backing out while riding.

Good idea!

 

[Functional Artist]

Got the sprocket bolted on good-n-tight
...& the caliper looks like it will clear nicely.

Then, I noticed that the rotor blocked the keyway just a little bit.

A little "bodywork" (5 minutes with a file) & Boom! no more problem.

But, now the bolt heads seem to be just a bit too big.

 

[Functional Artist]

Allen head bolts.

Even looks better.

 

[Functional Artist]

I'm kinda bouncin' around here but, I found a kool HD foot pedal at Surplus Center (~$30.00)

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Elect...lt-DC-Hall-Effect-Position-Sensor-11-3493.axd

They are originally made for use in RAVEN brand electric mowers.

It has a Hall effect pedal position sensor that outputs a 0-5 VDC signal based on pedal position
(5 VDC output when pedal fully depressed)

The Hall effect sensor can be removed revealing a 0.10" thick x 0.32" wide male tang that rotates up to 55 degrees as the pedal moves & it has a plastic pedal with an 8 gauge steel lower bracket.

We can't use the plug, but we can solder one on easy enough & the wires are even similarly colored:

Red = +5VDC input
Green = 0-5VDC Output Signal
Black = Ground

https://www.surpluscenter.com/_MoreSpecs/W11-3493.pdf

 

[landuse]

I love the pedal