Custom manual clutch

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ddowns46

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In case anyone is curious, the total weight of the assembled clutch will be 4.05 pounds. However, the rotating mass is only 2.9 pounds and is the figure that should be used when comparing this clutch to centrifugal clutches on the market. I believe 2.9 pounds is very close to the weight of a standard cent clutch.

Also, the diameter is 4.125" and the length is 2.65".
 

jimmymc2286

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Just found this thread. Wow, I have been waiting a long time for someone to make one of these. As soon as you get your web page up and running I'll order one of the first runs. I have been thinking about adapting a cushman clutch but this will make my life a lot easier. I hope this works out. I can see it being used in everything from karts to boats. I hope you make a fortune.
 

mckutzy

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Over all I think that this is a cool product. I have a few thoughts though.

When this is installed(on a honda clone) is supposed to act kinda like how a throttle works, You can throttle it on and off. I ask this, it seems to me if one applied the clutch, it would stall the engine almost out right if not at a high rev. and if set up to be in engaged all the time, to start the motor it would have have the peddle or lever in to allow it to start.

Is this meant to be used in a particular manner or a multitude of styles?

For me, I see using this device on my bike once available for sale. I am going to use this in a kinda transmission role, keep my cent clutch and mount it on a jackshaft, use the "manual" with a kinda jocky shift lever to engage the JS from the motor.
Am I nuts or is this not the whole Idea.
 

B man

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Over all I think that this is a cool product. I have a few thoughts though.

When this is installed(on a honda clone) is supposed to act kinda like how a throttle works, You can throttle it on and off. I ask this, it seems to me if one applied the clutch, it would stall the engine almost out right if not at a high rev. and if set up to be in engaged all the time, to start the motor it would have have the peddle or lever in to allow it to start.

Is this meant to be used in a particular manner or a multitude of styles?

For me, I see using this device on my bike once available for sale. I am going to use this in a kinda transmission role, keep my cent clutch and mount it on a jackshaft, use the "manual" with a kinda jocky shift lever to engage the JS from the motor.
Am I nuts or is this not the whole Idea.

you would feather the clutch to get going. not jusy on off so to speak.
 

machinist@large

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Over all I think that this is a cool product. I have a few thoughts though.

When this is installed(on a honda clone) is supposed to act kinda like how a throttle works, You can throttle it on and off. I ask this, it seems to me if one applied the clutch, it would stall the engine almost out right if not at a high rev. and if set up to be in engaged all the time, to start the motor it would have have the peddle or lever in to allow it to start.

Is this meant to be used in a particular manner or a multitude of styles?

For me, I see using this device on my bike once available for sale. I am going to use this in a kinda transmission role, keep my cent clutch and mount it on a jackshaft, use the "manual" with a kinda jocky shift lever to engage the JS from the motor.
Am I nuts or is this not the whole Idea.

I may be wrong (the OP can correct me), but the way it's been described this unit acts exactly like a manual clutch in a car or truck. If you know how to drive a stick shift, you should know how to use the unit. I, for one, am looking forward to the launch; I have to many bills to pay to be part of the test group, but I have at least 3 potential projects in the dream stage which would be soooo much easier if I could incorporate one into the plans.

I really hope this project fly's....... :popcorn::thumbsup:
 

Doc Sprocket

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I may be wrong (the OP can correct me), but the way it's been described this unit acts exactly like a manual clutch in a car or truck. If you know how to drive a stick shift, you should know how to use the unit. I, for one, am looking forward to the launch; I have to many bills to pay to be part of the test group, but I have at least 3 potential projects in the dream stage which would be soooo much easier if I could incorporate one into the plans.

I really hope this project fly's....... :popcorn::thumbsup:

Yes, yes, and... Yes. Operation will be identical to any other manual clutch. If one does not "get it", one clearly has never driven anything with a manual transmission. From a stansdstill, you'd feed it a little throttle, and gently engage the clutch- allowing it to slip a bit to get you moving. When you reach a certain point, you'd allow the clutch to engage completely.
 

mckutzy

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I guess there is my misunderstanding, I havent driven a manual(in anything, car, truck,motorcycle) much to say I could successfully.
I guess my most misunderstanding is, I was under the impression that a cone style clutch wasnt really able to have slip, as opposed to a plate type where the is some centrifugal forces helping making contact and grabbing, like what is described above.
 

devino246

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I guess there is my misunderstanding, I havent driven a manual(in anything, car, truck,motorcycle) much to say I could successfully.
I guess my most misunderstanding is, I was under the impression that a cone style clutch wasnt really able to have slip, as opposed to a plate type where the is some centrifugal forces helping making contact and grabbing, like what is described above.

Springs are used in place of centrifugal force.

Check out how an automotive clutch works. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch1.htm

If you still don't get it, I've got an old clutch sitting in the shed, I can explain how it works.
 

mckutzy

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I understand how a clutch(s) works. It is truly hard sometimes to express on the net.

My questioning was on how a cone's geometry is with engagement. Would there be any contact at all if the inner and outer cones weren't fully engaged. I see this only if the two inner surfaces weren't at the same angle, Ie if the inner cone were to have a more(slight) tapered surface than the driven(outer) cone. It makes contact somewhat but not fully (at the most leading surface at the tip). Then with more released pressure (the clutch peddle or lever is released) the full surfaces of contact are touching and transmitting force from the motor.

With the plate type I see there is a bit of slip. The plates touch each other and there is some or very little grab and transmission of force. With the peddle released the clutch has full pressure onto the driving end and the car moves.

See what I mean, or do I completely need to go out and drive some standard vehicles?

I guess Im getting into the more complex issues of this type of clutch. I by all means do not doubt this(the op's product) works. Im just a little confused on some of the tech details.
 

devino246

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I understand how a clutch(s) works. It is truly hard sometimes to express on the net.

My questioning was on how a cone's geometry is with engagement. Would there be any contact at all if the inner and outer cones weren't fully engaged. I see this only if the two inner surfaces weren't at the same angle, Ie if the inner cone were to have a more(slight) tapered surface than the driven(outer) cone. It makes contact somewhat but not fully (at the most leading surface at the tip). Then with more released pressure (the clutch peddle or lever is released) the full surfaces of contact are touching and transmitting force from the motor.

With the plate type I see there is a bit of slip. The plates touch each other and there is some or very little grab and transmission of force. With the peddle released the clutch has full pressure onto the driving end and the car moves.

See what I mean, or do I completely need to go out and drive some standard vehicles?

I guess Im getting into the more complex issues of this type of clutch. I by all means do not doubt this(the op's product) works. Im just a little confused on some of the tech details.

I assume it's either an expanding inner cone, or something more like this:


The slip happens when the friction material first contacts the friction surface of the outer drum. As more pressure is allowed to be applied, the friction between the friction material and friction surface increases. It seems like you're over thinking it.
 

Doc Sprocket

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A standard automotive clutch has both the friction disc and the flywheel at the same angle, both dead flat. Having the cones at the same angles will work in exactly the same manner. We're not talking about velcro here- less than full pressure will result in some (desired) slip.
 

chain

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I'm stoked that this is going to be available for my motorized bikes, and I've wanted to do a ratty t bucket kart this would be perfect for it. Guys on the MB forum are pretty excited as well.. Can't wait. Two Please.
 

ddowns46

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As many people have pointed out here, the clutch operates just like any normal motorcycle or automobile clutch. Our clutch is a cone clutch, but it uses the same basic mechanisms that are used within a disc clutch or any other type of clutch. 'Slip' occurs when the friction material is allowed to rotate relative to it's mating surface. This happens because engagement/disengagement is a gradual effect, and can be controlled by the user with the clutch lever. If the user wants limited slip, they will effectively 'dump' the clutch and engage the motor almost instantly. For a smoother start, some amount of slip is desired, and this can be easily modulated by releasing the clutch lever at the right speed and using the throttle to control engine RPM. Sometimes, slipping the clutch heavily can be advantageous such as 'feathering' the clutch up a steep hill to get a burst of power.
 

Relicmoto

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This is exactly the reason I have been procrastinating on my kart building endeavors, because sub $200 cen clutches don't last long, and a comit unit costs as much as 3 clone engines. I'll need 2 of these bad boys!
 
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