I finally got back to the Kart and I was able to move the axle sprocket over *just* enough to get it to line up pretty closely, but I thought the same thing. Considering putting a washer or washers behind the sprocket to slide it over the final 1/8”.
Coleman T-196. jack shaft junk
- Thread starter Powersrp
- Start date
Ok, this looks like a pretty good idea. Is it still working out?
Unfortunately the chain continues to come off no matter what I do. I have replaced the sprockets and chains on both sides and the chain still pops off within a couple of minutes of riding. At a loss as to what to do. I am not much of a fabricator and don't have the equipment to cut and replace the jackshaft assembly. Maybe new bearings are needed?
Kartorbust
Inmate #627
Your sprocket alignment is probably off just enough, to kick the chain off. You'll need to get a straight edge and check the alignments.
I know it was almost 3 years ago that you posted this, but I am having the issue and trying to come up with a solution. If I get the kit that Kartorbust suggested on comment 2, I'm assuming you get a longer chain then to get down to the axle but how do you get the chain to line up with the axle sprocket.
Kartorbust
Inmate #627
Can you post pictures of what you're working with?
It is so hard to get good pictures, I hope this helps with what I am dealing with. I had the motor taken off of it so I put it back on there for the pictures. In the first picture, a chain goes to that from the torque converter and on the right side a chain goes from that to the axle. Just trying to figure out how to fix that fail point since it is just welded to that one cross bar and must twist every time they hit the gas.
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It is so hard to get good pictures, I hope this helps with what I am dealing with. I had the motor taken off of it so I put it back on there for the pictures. In the first picture, a chain goes to that from the torque converter and on the right side a chain goes from that to the axle. Just trying to figure out how to fix that fail point since it is just welded to that one cross bar and must twist every time they hit the gas.
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panchothedog
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You will have to move the axle sprocket over to the left several inches. If the sprocket on there now is not moveable, then measure the diameter of the axle and purchase a hub and corresponding 60 tooth sprocket. The hub bolts onto the axle and can be slid from side to side. The sprocket bolts to the hub. You do away completely with the jack shaft assembly, and the chain goes from the T C to the axle.
Ok thank you! The axle sprocket now cannot move, it has a key right in the axle at that location to hold the sprocket. Do you have a recommended place to purchase a new axle, hub, and sprocket from.
panchothedog
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If it has a key and is not welded to the axle look for a set screw on the hub. It might very well be moveable. To purchase a new hub and sprocket, any of the major kart supply shops will have them. Go Power Sports, OMB Warehouse,
BMI Karts, Go Karts USA. There are more, but those are the ones that come to mind at the moment.
BMI Karts, Go Karts USA. There are more, but those are the ones that come to mind at the moment.
Oh it does have a bolt on the bottom side I see now that holds the hub in place. So it does actually look like I can move it and just wouldn't use the key on the axle. Will the one bolt be enough to hold it in place. The other side of the hub is the brake . It just won't be protected by the skid plate if I move it. Don't know if that would be an issue depending on what the kids go through.
panchothedog
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You still need the key to lock the hub to the axle. Otherwise the hub ( and sprocket ) will just freewheel. FWIW, I run all of my karts ( 4, driven by my Grandkids ) off road, and I think one of them has a skid plate.
The current slot for the key is only a short area right where the hub is now so There would be no slot for the key in the axle. How do I make that happen? Sorry for all the questions. I’ve never tried doing anything like this before.
panchothedog
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I thought that the key ran the whole length of the axle. ( most do ). Your next best option is once you find the exact place you want the hub to sit, mark it and then drill a shallow hole a little bit bigger in diameter than the bolt in the hub. This will allow you to lock the hub in place on the axle. Most axles are made of pretty hard steel and being round you have to get a deep center punch to keep the drill bit from wandering. Second scenario. Measure the diameter of your axle ( use dial calipers, not a ruler ) and after removing the axle, purchase a keyed axle the same diameter and length. You also could take your current axle to a machine shop and have them cut a key way into the axle. All 3 of these are going to take a bit of work on your part, and the second and third ones are going to cost a little bit of money. Hope you are up to it.