Clark Cyclops 440 / Rupp Dart A-Bone project

[Ted Hamilton]

I found a vintage-appearing kart on Craigslist locally last week. Description called it an "A Bones". The only A-Bone I know of is a Rupp, and potentially valuable, so I called the number. Gentlemen responded with more pics and offer to bring it by. I looked it over and purchased for $140 believing it to be a Rupp. Here's what I got on the day I brought it home:

 

[Ted Hamilton]

I posted on a couple boards that specialize in vintage karts or karts in general and was told is was indeed a Rupp A-Bone, and also told it was a Clark Cyclops 440. In either case, the previous owner had modified it a bit, and it was quite dirty/rusty. It had Carlisles on the front and Goodyear Blue Streaks in the rear, consistent with the claimed race date of 1970's. (Prev. owner also had mid 80's Margays).

I decided I'd clean it up, rehab the bad metal, and convert it to a live axle with swing mount. After doing more research, I concluded I had a Clark Cyclops 440 like Orange Krate's "The General" minus the flag...

If you looks at these pics of a true Rupp A-Bone, you'll see some differences -- lack of a big tail, one less rear crossmember, but 2 gussetts between the seat hoop and rear support rails, and the aforementioned swing mount.

(PS - The keen eye will note that "Cyclops" tag is on a minibike, but I assume they used it for karts too... who knows, info is sparse)

 

[Ted Hamilton]

So, I decided to convert this Clark to become a Clark A-Bone.
Here's the progress so far:

 

[Ted Hamilton]

The hardware up front is going to be replaced with Azusa(tm) brand pedals, steering shaft with splined hub, steering wheel (10"), individual tie-rods with corrected Ackermann, and then lugs for brake cable and throttle cable added. After that, I'm putting in a new swing mount system for the rear (2, so I can make a dual someday), and putting an outboard drum brake on the left side. Perhaps I'll do dual drum brakes with a common rod actuator, but we'll see. I'll keep posting as I make progress. The weld material is HARD and I'm cutting out the square gussets in the rear and removing the crossbar closest to the seat back next... Then it's grinding everything back level and added tabs for a front floorpan, lugs for control cables, and brake actuator assembly. Check back soon! ~Ted

 

[Ted Hamilton]

BTW, sourced 5" Cheng Shins at my local hardware store for $17 (3.5" x 5" rims). I can get more if people need 'em and will ship 'em at cost.

 

[landuse]

I just love these old vintage karts. They look so simple with clean lines.

 

[Orange Krate]

Yup, there's a lot of similarities between a Rupp and a Clark. I think you can pull it off. Just, hate to see a good yard kart go to waste to apease the stuffy vintage only crowd

 

[landuse]

Yup, there's a lot of similarities between a Rupp and a Clark. I think you can pull it off. Just, hate to see a good yard kart go to waste to apease the stuffy vintage only crowd

It is amazing how the vintage crowd goes bananas if you want to do anything "unscriptural" to a vintage kart

 

[Ted Hamilton]

I have to laugh because half of what was racing back then was a cobbed together plumbing pipe garage creation with a lawn mower 4 cycle, not their factory produced american 2 cycles...there was a lot more going on than asphalt road course -- the dirt ovals in backyards probably outnumbered them 10:1, and probably still does. Maybe we'll have to start our own club.

 

[Ted Hamilton]

Oh, and had this not required some work anyhow, I may not have modded it, but since the floorpan had to come out anyway, I figured I'd use it to brush up on my metalwork. I have a nice Hobart mig welder here, am a certified machinist (alas, no machines), and have local access to most of the parts I need. Like I said, I'll post updates. May make a parts run today or tomorrow or may make it easy on myself and just order from American Poiwer Sports...

 

[Ted Hamilton]

Ok, got some more work done.
First, I was able to remove the extra rear crossbar at the cost of 2 sawzall blades and near-cursing.
Then, I used a good drill and a brass wire wheel to polish one of the rim halves. Brass is soft enough that it burnishes the Aluminum nicely and removes corrosion without adding lots of scratches. Recommended highly. You can get them for bench grinders, but they tend to suck the rim halves in and spit them across the garage or into your gut....don't ask.

 

[RadioFlyerrr]

Man the things I would do for a cart like that !

If i may i suggest using mothers aluminum mag polish on those wheels . It will shine them up like you wouldnt believe . Ill be watching this one for sure.

 

[Ted Hamilton]

^^ I may sell it to you once it's done.... Thanks for the suggestion on polish.

 

[Ted Hamilton]

Getting closer...

 

[gixxer kart]

I have one exactly like that. Didnt know what it was so I kinda.. Uh.. Cut it up for parts.. Wish I would have known it had some value

 

[Ted Hamilton]

Well, don't feel too bad -- technically id doesn't have a lot of value as it's a "yard kart". I'm just converting mine so the purists won't know the difference! Will be fun, though.

 

[Ted Hamilton]

Grinding away, cleaning up the rear in prep for the proper A-Bone gussets and rear chassis support rail. A lot of dust inhalation and hassle, but it'll be nice to see it done. Then it's off to the sandblaster to reveal any hidden cracks and get it clean for repair welding...then off to the powdercoater while I sew the new seat cover (denim needles for the sewing machine in order to sew vinyl from Jo-Ann's....proper "Dart" piping is on its' way for the edges)

Then it's time for final assembly...but let's not jump too far ahead.

 

[Ted Hamilton]

Grinding's done...

 

[Ted Hamilton]

Grinding's done, and the next step is....

 

[landuse]

You are chugging along nicely.