Chain Questions

[Squiddy202]

So my sister’s friend who is a mechanic for the big karts otherwise known as cars told me two things:
1. My oil shouldn’t really be black. When I changed it after the old owner I probably just washed crap down into the clean oil.
I can change my oil, especially with the hose the previous owner added to the engine.
It is visible in the corner of that picture, I’m too lazy to go out to my boiling hot shed and get a better picture for a side tangent. Either way, I can and will change the oil. The real question is the chain.
They said it was too loose (it is) and I need a new one. I measured it and it seems to be 428 but it isn’t even 1/16” over a half. I noticed these bolts on my jackshaft:
They go into slits on the underside. I am wondering if I slide that back while also sliding the engine back to keep the belt good if I will have fixed my problems.

P.S. My tape measure had markings smaller than 1/16” for like 3” at the beginning. I don’t know what they were but the chain was still at 1/2”.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Look carefully at the chain links, maybe even clean then a bit. Every other or so link should have a chain size number on it.

If your JS can slide back to tention the chain thats how you tighten it. BUT your engine must slide with it. The spacing for the CVT belt must stay the same.

 

[Squiddy202]

Look carefully at the chain links, maybe even clean then a bit. Every other or so link should have a chain size number on it.

If your JS can slide back to tention the chain thats how you tighten it. BUT your engine must slide with it. The spacing for the CVT belt must stay the same.

So at what point do I buy a new chain? I have what seems to be borderline perfect pitch, but how do I know when it isn’t ok?

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Perfect pitch is rare.
You'll know you dont have it when people wince when you sing.

 

[Squiddy202]

Perfect pitch is rare.
You'll know you dont have it when people wince when you sing.

My singing is horrible, what about the chain?

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

To check chain wear i like to pull the chain at the rear most point. Away from where the chain starts to engage and leave the sprocket.
It should be rather tight. If you can pull the chain up off the teeth its wore out.

Take the chain off and lay it on the ground. If it bends sideways like the one on the left, its wore out.

 

[Squiddy202]

To check chain wear i like to pull the chain at the rear most point. Away from where the chain starts to engage and leave the sprocket.
It should be rather tight. If you can pull the chain up off the teeth its wore out.

Take the chain off and lay it on the ground. If it bends sideways like the one on the left, its wore out.

View attachment 162509

Thanks, will do. I’ve never seen that before!

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

And oil is rather cheap. Change it.
These engines dont have any filter so it can use any help they can get.

 

[Denny]

And yes the oil will get black. This is normal as the junk is suspended in it (carbon and bearing, block, piston and ring material). Your sister’s friend is a moron.

 

[Squiddy202]

And yes the oil will get black. This is normal as the junk is suspended in it (carbon and bearing, block, piston and ring material). Your sister’s friend is a moron.

I mean to be fair it is dark black, pitch black and I haven’t changed it since I got it last fall. I think the time is the bigger thing.

 

[Squiddy202]

Quick question, I see no master link on my chain. People talk about breaking chains, but everyone seems to out a master link back in. Is there any way to put a pin back in with a chain breaker? Do chains just not have master links from the factory?

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

You can get one piece chains as a special order.
A master link is the way most everything else works.
Did you check both sides for the clip on the master?

No you can't put a pin back in after you break the chain.

 

[Squiddy202]

Did you check both sides for the clip on the master?

I think I did, I’ll check again but I’m pretty positive it had no clip.

 

[Hellion]

Most every new consumer-grade vehicle; motorcycle, 4-wheeler, kart, mini-bike, etc. comes with a master link. It permits easy chain disassembly/reassembly for servicing and that’s good for the consumer---back when they used to do their own maintenance.

When you buy chain for a motorcycle for example, it’s usually bought by the precise link count per the original specification. That way the owner doesn’t have to break chain or fiddle around with it but just install it, add a master link and go.

Otherwise, you can buy chain in bulk, like 20 feet of chain or whatever. This is what a lot of us do for multiple karts and minibikes. Cheaper in bulk and learning to break your own chain is one of those man skills for your man card.

I mean to be fair it is dark black, pitch black and I haven’t changed it since I got it last fall. I think the time is the bigger thing.

Use a good air filter. There’s comparatively low amounts of ring material, cylinder/piston/bearing particles suspended in the oil compared to outright dirt (in most cases). However, motor oil gets darkened quickly due to the combustion process. It is what it is and should not be used to gauge the oil condition.

It comes out dark brown to black for most oil changes across the board. If it comes out in chunks, like spoiled milk or thick like yogurt, that’s sludge and that’s a problem. Change your oil when it’s hot.