Brake Troubles.....HELP!!!!

[thgrahamjr]

Well I bled it how you all told me (Loosen bleeder valve then push brake pedal in and hold it, tighten bleeder valve and release brake pedal) I did that until I had a steady stream of brake fluid coming out when pedal is pushed which took about six or seven times but the brakes still don't tighten on the disc. Also I don't know if this is a problem but when I have the caliper un-hooked before I bought one you could push the brake pedal and the return spring would pull it back, now I have to pull the pedal back with my foot. Probaly just need a stronger spring.

 

[Raywelder]

Thats weird, If its bled good, It should build up pressure, and the pedal should get hard.
Sounds like your master may have air in it still, or its bad.

 

[Raywelder]

So the resevoir is still full, and you didn't accidentally bleed enough fluid out to run air back into the system maybe?

 

[thgrahamjr]

No I had to refill the res., I'll have to take the master apart and check the seals like kibble mentioned and go from there.

 

[Raywelder]

No I had to refill the res., I'll have to take the master apart and check the seals like kibble mentioned and go from there.

Ok, Well as long as you didn't let the res run empty.

Sounds like you have check the seals then, but I'm not sure how you go about that.

It may be just that there's air trapped in there at a weird angle.

I know that the master on my trucks clutch is at a weird angle, so We had to unbolt it and tip it up while pushing on the rod.

I dont see why yours would hold air in it however, But you could try it.

 

[theo]

Sometimes they are a real bastard to bleed.

theo

 

[thgrahamjr]

Well the only thing I know to do is disassemble the master cylinder and check the seals, mayby when it starts to build up pressure it is pushing passed the seals. I'm just not to sure it still has air in it because every time I push the pedal with the bleeder open it pushes a steady stream out.....IDK.

 

[theo]

Remove the brake line from the master cyl. fill the master cyl and hold your finger over the hole and press the pedal see if you have any pressure there.

 

[thgrahamjr]

How much pressure should be there? Should I be able to hold my finger over the hole?

 

[kibble]

How much pressure should be there? Should I be able to hold my finger over the hole?

No, it should leak through with quite a bit of force. If you can hold it back with you finger something's up or you're just a hulk like that. :arf:

 

[jr dragster T]

Arnt you supposed to push the pedel THEN crack the bleeder then before the stroke of the MC bottoms out close the bleeder then release the pedel? Thats how I've always been taught and works. If you cracked the bleeder then pushed the pedel wouldnt that suck in air because theres no pressure when you cracked the bleeder?

 

[Raywelder]

Arnt you supposed to push the pedel THEN crack the bleeder then before the stroke of the MC bottoms out close the bleeder then release the pedel? Thats how I've always been taught and works. If you cracked the bleeder then pushed the pedel wouldnt that suck in air because theres no pressure when you cracked the bleeder?

Possibly, Now that I think about it, Your probably right.

 

[jr dragster T]

Yeah I'm pretty sure thats right. Or else you would just suck in alot of air. Always have pressure on the system whether your opening or closing a bleeder. Thats the method we've always used on cars in the shop at school and the Wilwood brakes on my dragster.

 

[thgrahamjr]

So explain that process to me as if you were writting the book "Brake Repair for Dummies" that way I can understand it.

 

[vinco]

All bleeders closed, pump the pedal 3 or 4 times. On the last pump, just hold the pedal to the floor and don't let it up. While the pedal is on the floor, open the bleeder on the caliper and let it run out until all pressure is gone. Then close the bleeder on the caliper. Now - and not before now - let the brake pedal off the floor and pump it 3 or 4 times again, holding it down to the floor on the last pump, then open bleeder, close bleeder, let up pedal, etc.

About every 3rd cycle, while the pedal is UP, check and top off the fluid in the master cylinder as needed.

Do this several times. Just remember - NEVER let the pedal up while the bleeder screw is open.

 

[thgrahamjr]

Well I bled the brakes again how Vinco described but it wasn't much better, so I decided to adjust the master cylinder rod to give it more stroke and it slows it down and stops the kart. I'm not sure how good one disc brake on an off road buggie should work because I have never had a kart with disc brakes. Should it lock up the rear tires or just slow them to a stop?

 

[Kaptain Krunch]

They should be able to lock your tires.

 

[Raywelder]

Hydraulic brakes should lock your tires easily on your cart.

 

[thgrahamjr]

Well I have old pads on it that came on the caliper when I bought it maybe they are to worn, I also bought a new set of pads when I bought the caliper so i'll put them on and see if it helps it stop better.

 

[jr dragster T]

Over time and if oil is spilt on the rotor/pads the pads will become glazed over and this has happened to my kart. Get some 100 grit sand paper and the pad on a flat surface and move the pad in a figure "8" pattern. You will see the pad change colour from a glazed/glossy grey to a nice flat grey colour. The pads will most likely work great after that.