Boma 60V 2,000W brushless motor

[Functional Artist]

This is very cool...I may try this as a first attempt at our conversion kart.

Now to find 5 suitable batteries. We've easily got room for 2 on each side and 1 behind the seat. Are you folks somehow using 60v chargers or charging all your 12v batteries separately?

Then I just need to find a thread on converting throttle to marry with the existing pedal assembly. I'm getting nervously excited...

I usually use 12V 12AH SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries & get ~30 - 45 min. run time.

Their size is ~4" x 6", only weigh ~8lbs. ea. & you can find them for ~$25.00 ea.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pack-12V...=item1a19824b7f:g:BqwAAOSwUxhbR9eB:rk:13:pf:0

You can charge them individually with a standard 12V charger or I have seen 60V (e-Bike) battery chargers on eBay for ~$20.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/60V-20AH-E...h=item286855e63f:g:DXQAAOSwJ3RaqJY1:rk:7:pf:0

As far as the connections & throttle integration ideas, check out this thread, it may be helpful

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=37442

 

[Functional Artist]

Here is a link to the 10% off deal until they get our DIYGK discount set up.
https://www.ebay.com/sme/alfa_wheel...ml?_soffid=5160194908&_soffType=TargetedOffer

&

Here is a link to the 60V 2,000W Boma motor controller combo
$229.00 - 10% = ~$200.00 shipped

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2000W-Watt...Go-kart-/163370758805?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

 

[Functional Artist]

I took a quick peek inside (for my buddy Sid)

Has a nice little gasket under the end cover

But, ya can't see a whole lot

 

[p0440]

So i saw a video on youtube (the one linked below to be specific), where this guy claims some if not all of the wires output 48v.
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APRoSdOSf0c&t=218s

As i have mentioned before, electrical isn't really my thing, so please excuse me if this is a dumb question.

which toggle switches will work if i want to add toggle switches for my forward/reverse, ignition, 3 stage speed...etc.

all the ones i found on amazon are rated in VAC and not VDC, and the amp seems to be low? 15a or 20a, while our controller goes up to 35a?

Thanks in advanced again, my motor, and all connectors, sprockets, chain had all arrived, just waiting on batteries to arrive tomorrow.

very excited, yet hoping i don't blow up anything

 

[Functional Artist]

So i saw a video on youtube, where this guy claims some if not all of the wires output 48v.

As i have mentioned before, electrical isn't really my thing, so please excuse me if this is a dumb question.

which toggle switches will work if i want to add toggle switches for my forward/reverse, ignition, 3 stage speed...etc.

all the ones i found on amazon are rated in VAC and not VDC, and the amp seems to be low? 15a or 20a, while our controller goes up to 35a?

Thanks in advanced again, my motor, and all connectors, sprockets, chain had all arrived, just waiting on batteries to arrive tomorrow.

very excited, yet hoping i don't blow up anything

Very good questions
...& ones I've been looking in to as well.

The "lock" (ignition), forward/reverse & 3-speed are all considered "small power" signal circuits.

Yes, they are "pack voltage" (48VDC for the guy in the video & 60VDC for the controller this thread is about) but, they should not carry much "actual" current.

This speed controller should only draw maybe ~500mA & there should not be much of an amp draw from the reverse & 3-speed circuits at all.

Only the "big power" wires: thick red (+) & thick black (-) "Power" / "Battery" wires
...& the thick blue, thick yellow & thick green "Motor" / "Power" wires, will ever carry the high amperage. (up to 35A)

On all of the 24VDC, 36VDC & 48VDC motors & controllers I have been working with so far, I have just used standard 12VDC automotive type fuses & switches, without any problems.
...but, I was thinking that using them for a 60VDC system was pushing it just a bit.
...so, I have been doing some research.

According to my research, the fuses & switches should be rated for the highest voltage that the system will ever encounter (come across/deal with) plus ~10% safety margin.

For a 60VDC system the top charge voltage of (5) SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries would be ~66.5VDC
(5 x 13.3VDC = 66.5VDC) plus a 10% (6.5VDC) = 73VDC

So, "technically" we should be using fuses & switches rated for 72VDC.

I have found a few 72VDC rated switches so far like this:

An on-off switch (72VDC 16A) for the (power lock) ~$10.00
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/633-JWL21RA1A
or
an on-off-on switch (250VDC 15A) for the (3-speed function) ~$13.00 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/611-PT103SSQ

Still looking for a compatible off-(momentarily) on switch for the (reverse function)

* A kool thing about the on-off switch I linked above, is that it is a DPST switch (dual pole single throw) style switch.

Which means that it's (2) totally separate switches in (1) unit.

So it can turn on/off (control) the speed controller
...& an indicator light (to tell you the system is switched on)
...or a volt/amp gauge
...or a headlight etc.
both at the same time.

 

[Functional Artist]

I forgot to cover system protection.
I have used both fuses & circuit breakers on my electric karts, with great success

For this situation, I have found a few that seem to meet the requirements.

For a simple fuse:

Here is a "Littlefuse" (80VDC 50A) fuse (~$7.00)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...EpiMZZMsh2y49K8ANrZd5E%2bEJS1ai%2btOJlTsRD9I=
(more info)
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/240/littelfuse_boltdown_fusestrips_housing_bp_80v-523197.pdf

or for a circuit breaker:

Here is a MNEPV50 (up tp 150VDC 50A) circuit breaker (~$15.00)
http://www.midnitesolar.com/product...=Breakers&productCat_ID=16&sortOrder=18&act=p

* A circuit breaker can perform "dual duty" by providing circuit protection & also as a power disconnect switch, for maintenance & storage purposes.

 

[p0440]

Thanks Functional Artist!

 

[p0440]

wooohooo, got the go kart running today after many scary attempt when i hook up the final wire to the battery, it would always spark like crazy the first try.

Question, how do i swap forward and reverse? I swear i saw it somewhere "changing forward speed to have the correct speed rather than reverse mode speed" but i can't find that article right now.

Also, how do i prevent the spark everytime i connect the battery?

Thank you so much for all the help, you guys made it happened!

 

[p0440]

wooohooo, got the go kart running today after many scary attempt when i hook up the final wire to the battery, it would always spark like crazy the first try.

Question, how do i swap forward and reverse? I swear i saw it somewhere "changing forward speed to have the correct speed rather than reverse mode speed" but i can't find that article right now.

Also, how do i prevent the spark everytime i connect the battery?

Thank you so much for all the help, you guys made it happened!

Found it

 

[sikbrik]

wooohooo, got the go kart running today after many scary attempt when i hook up the final wire to the battery, it would always spark like crazy the first try.

Also, how do i prevent the spark everytime i connect the battery?

I'm not an expert but I think you want to be using a battery disconnect switch or heavy duty relay for safety. It will be open when you connect the battery and then closed once you activate the switch for driving mode.

 

[Functional Artist]

I'm not an expert but I think you want to be using a battery disconnect switch or heavy duty relay for safety. It will be open when you connect the battery and then closed once you activate the switch for driving mode.

Yes, I agree a battery pack disconnect is a good idea.

Looking around, most higher voltage EV (electric vehicle) stuff is pricy.

So, I kept looking (sometimes you have to "think outside of the box")
...& found these:

MidNite's MNEPV 1A thru 63A circuit breakers rated for up to 150VDC. (~$15.00)

http://www.midnitesolar.com/product...atName=Breakers&productCat_ID=16&sortOrder=18

Here is more info
http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/MNEPV_Series_Circuit_Breakers_DataSheet.pdf

They are "actually" designed for industrial use

Applications
• DC branch circuit protection (UL 489A, IEC / EN 60947-2)
• Telecom / datacom equipment
• UPS equipment
• Alternative energy equipment
• Battery protection & switching
• Telecommunication DC power distribution
• Railway signalling equipment

...but, should work great for our situation too.

 

[p0440]

Its done! and it does donuts and burn outs!
Worked all day with a friend cleaning up all the wiring.

Thank you all!

 

[Functional Artist]

Its done! and it does donuts and burn outs!
Worked all day with a friend cleaning up all the wiring.

Thank you all!

Wow! Super Kool!

How about a video?

 

[p0440]

Haha I’ll post video later, my wife and kids are it of the country for 2 weeks, I don’t have anyone to record video for me.

Meanwhile, I have yet again another question. On a thumb throttle. The one I bought has 5 wires, since it’s got a battery indicator.
Red, Black, Green, Yellow, Brown, White.

Anyone know how I should wire them into the controller?

The foot peddal only have 3 wires, Red,Black and Green, I tried hooking just those matching 3 colors, nothing.

 

[sikbrik]

That is super cool p0440! Nice job...I think I'm totally convinced to put the 2 stroke on the shelf and do this. Mind sharing what gear ratio you're running or the rear sprocket tooth count?

Also, where did I miss the 5th battery? I like the situation of the 4 where a fuel tank used to be. Maybe you have a separate build thread with these details so I apologize if I'm cluttering FunctionalArtist's thread.

Thanks again to FunctionalArtist for the research and info sharing!

---------- Post added at 08:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:25 PM ----------

AlphaWheels just got my money!

 

[p0440]

Also forgot to mention, in forward, especially fast/high speed mode. If I try to go very slowly and just roll forward, the kart chokes and shakes as if the chain is skipping on my sprocket, but my chain has good tension and if I try going same speed in reverse or in low speed mode, it’s fine and smooth, so I know it probably has to do with the speed controller.

Do I have a bad speed controller or is this normal?
Kinda bothers me

---------- Post added at 08:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:22 PM ----------

Thanks sikbrik, I have the 48v setup with 1800w brushless motor, so I only have 4 batteries.
I have 10 tooth on motor and 62 on axle. Yet to test top speed, someone I feel skeptical about going too fast, I feel like something mechanical or electrical is going to break, so far everything seems nice and cool temperature wise, even after countless of donuts lol.

I too am cluttering functionalartist’s thread, but I guess I’m somewhat on topic still ?

---------- Post added at 08:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:38 PM ----------

Here is a quick video of me doing donuts in my garage with just a little more than half of the garage space

https://youtu.be/Xgw0PLQuuJc

 

[sikbrik]

Getting ahead of myself but a few questions:

- looking at the tab/nut & bolt style battery terminals rather than the slip-on style...just seems more resilient for vibration. Interested in thoughts on that.

- this 60v controller...will it handle 72v? What kind of maths do I need to figure that out or is it more of an internal circuitry thing? Obviously we'll get it going on 60 but the greed for more will be there

Thanks! Trying to keep my questions relevant to the BOMA 60v 2kw and will start a build thread with more specific questions related to my specific build.

 

[Quinc]

When does the 60v 2800w version come out?

 

[Functional Artist]

Getting ahead of myself but a few questions:

- looking at the tab/nut & bolt style battery terminals rather than the slip-on style...just seems more resilient for vibration. Interested in thoughts on that.

- this 60v controller...will it handle 72v? What kind of maths do I need to figure that out or is it more of an internal circuitry thing? Obviously we'll get it going on 60 but the greed for more will be there

Thanks! Trying to keep my questions relevant to the BOMA 60v 2kw and will start a build thread with more specific questions related to my specific build.

I have used both styles (ring terminal & spade terminal) many times with no problems.

First you need to think about, how long you want/intend to ride at a time?

The answer to that question will influence/indicate what batteries (kind & size) you'll need.


Will it handle 72V? ...maybe? ...who knows how long?
...but, if used as designed & intended it should have a nice long life.

 

[p0440]

Have you guys looked into this?

i was doing a lot of research on how to wire up my 6 wire thumb throttle with battery indicator (which by the way still haven't figure it out)

i found that since there is no self learning feature (i think there isn't?)
for our controller, we have to manually calibrate it by going through the practice in the attached photo until you get the smoothest/best result.