Boma 60V 2,000W brushless motor

[Quinc]

Got my light bar, brake light, and main battery disconnect switch all installed this past weekend.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KLOMvr6NbI&feature=youtu.be

How are you liking the torque on this? if you give full throttle from a stand still does it launch you?

I am thinking about either this motor or the 1800w for my Razor MX650 build.

 

[p0440]

its my first and only go kart experience, so i can't really compare with anything else. i did had a guy telling me how his gas powered go kart will never have that kind of torque taking off from a complete stop though. I feel like it takes off OKAY fast but reaches max speed too soon (15mph, 10t/62t 1800w 4500rpm 10" tires. But then i daily drive a tesla so instant torque is nothing new to me, i would love to have the same kind of acceleration from my go kart but its far from it. i would definitely upgrade to 3000w or maybe even much higher later downthe road.

 

[Functional Artist]

While looking for "proper" switches & stuff to use with this 60VDC system, I contacted Alfa Wheels for some additional specs/info.

They told me: " they have many styles of throttles with switches & they are all safe to use because the high amperages never go through them, all the switches and voltage indicators come from the controllers."

I let them know: "I have done some testing on this Boma motor/controller. The lock, brake lever, brake light, indicator light & the battery indicator (of course) circuits are all full pack voltage, only the throttle, reverse & 3-speed control circuits function at the reduced ~5VDC."

They replied: "OK we will send you a couple for you to test, will ship in a couple of days several different ones"


Wow!, (I can't believe it) they sent me (5) throttles with different switches & power indicators & also a simple key switch, to test. (for them)

These are soo kool!

 

[Functional Artist]

To do some simple bench (kitchen table) testing, I rigged up a 5VDC power supply out of (3) AA batteries (1.5V) Alkaline batteries.

I used a battery holder out of one of them "free" HF flashlights. (1.5V x 3 = 4.5V) close enough
…& added (2) leads with clips
(I staggered the leads on purpose so, they can't easily touch & short-out my little bat pack)
I also have a few 12V 12AH SLA's, on hand, to test the voltage meters.

So, the first throttle is a:

Wuxing 25DX 48V 1/2 twist throttle (~$15.00)
...with a 3-light meter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/48v-Half-T...h-indicator-for-electric-scooter/152388377938

Having the meter makes it voltage specific so, this one is only for 48VDC systems.

It has (5) wires:

Throttle
red = positive (+) 5VDC
black= GND (-)
white = (speed) signal

Power Indicator
green = pack voltage positive (+)
yellow = battery pack negative (-)

 

[Functional Artist]

Next, is a Wuxing 30X/2 (up to 60V) full twist throttle (~$15.00)
...with a F-R (forward/reverse) switch
...& a cruise control button
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-T...m=153046570265&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982

It's just a simple throttle & switches (no voltage meter)
...so, it looks like it can be used on most systems (of up to 60VDC)

This one has (7) wires

Throttle
red = positive (+) 5V
black = GND (-)
white = (speed) signal

F-R switch is a (NO-normally off) rocker type switch
yellow = (F) forward gear
(when switch is in the (F) position the switch is off (not making contact)
brown = (R) reverse gear
(when switch is in the (R) position the switch is on (making contact)

Cruise control is a (NO-normally off (momentarily) on) push button type switch)
green = cruise control - off
(when not pressed the switch is in the off position (not making contact)
gray = cruise control - on
(when pressed (actuated) the switch is on (making contact)

* Alternate uses

The F-R switch could instead be used as an On/Off switch (to control the speed controller on vehicles without a reverse function) When in the (F) position the speed controller would be off & when (switched) to the (R) position the speed controller would be On. (energized)

…& the Cruise control button could be used for a horn.

 

[Functional Artist]

The third one is a:
Wuxing 67X/2 full twist throttle with a F-R switch (forward /reverse)
...& a 3-way switch (high, med & low) (~$15.00)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-T...eed-Switches-for-GoKart-eATV-DIY/163077800523

It's also a simple throttle & switches (no voltage meter)
...so it should be compatible with most ELV's (Extra-low voltage) systems.

This one has (8) wires

Throttle
-tells the speed controller how fast you want it, to make the motor to go (rotate)
wires
red = positive (+) 5V
black = GND (-)
white = (speed) signal

F-R switch
-is a standard On/Off rocker type switch (maintained On or maintained off) (maintained = holds in position)
wires
yellow = (F) forward gear
(when switch is in the (F) position the switch is off (not making contact)
brown = (R) reverse gear
(when switch is in the (R) position the switch is on (making contact)

3- Speed switch
-is an On-Off-On rocker type switch (maintained On-maintained Off-maintained On)
wires
blue = H (high speed) On
(when the switch is in the (H) position, the blue wire & the grey wires are contacting & completing the circuit, which tells the speed controller that you want it to operate at it's "highest RPM's")
grey = M (medium speed) Off
(when the switch is in the (M) position, no contacts are being made & the speed controller should operate in it's "default mode" which would be in the middle of the available RPM range)
brown = L (low speed) On
(when the switch is in the (L) position, the grey & brown wires are contacting & completing the "low speed" circuit, which tells the speed controller that you want it to operate at lower RPM's.

*Alternate uses
For vehicles, without a reverse function, like an electric mini-bike, the F-R switch could instead be used as an On/Off switch.
(when in the (F) position the speed controller would be off & when (switched) to the (R) position the speed controller would be On-energized)
…& the 3-speed switch could maybe used as a turn signal switch.

NOTE:
There aren't/I haven't seen any "actual" ratings listed for the switches used in/on these throttles, but my research seems to show that most of the switches used in many of these Wuxing products are rated for ELV use. (I remember seeing up to 60VDC ~1A listed in ads, many times)

 

[Functional Artist]

The fourth one is a:
Wuxing 67X-DS-S Full twist throttle (~$18.00)
...with a (48V) 5-light power indicator (meter)
...& a keyed On/Off switch.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/eBike-Elec...=item25cce02ee8:g:vM4AAOSw5cNYcmwm:rk:19:pf:0

Having the meter makes this one voltage specific too. (48VDC)

It has (5) wires

Throttle
-tells the speed controller how fast you want it, to make the motor to go (rotate)
wires
red = positive (+) 5V
black = GND (-)
white = (speed) signal

Key switch
- turns the speed controller On or Off.
wires
red= positive (+) power lock
yellow= RTN (signal) power lock

* On this one, it seems like the meter gets its positive (+) "voltage signal" from the red "Key switch/power lock" wire & its negative (-), to complete the circuit, from the black wire (GND) of the throttle.

NOTE: There aren't/I haven't seen any "actual" ratings listed for the switches used in/on these throttles, but my research seems to show that most of the switches used in many of these Wuxing products are rated for ELV use. (I remember seeing up to 60VDC ~1A listed in ads, many times)

 

[Functional Artist]

The fifth one is a: (I saved the koolest one for last)
Qimonda Electric Scooter Throttle Grip (~$14.00)
...with a LED voltage meter
...& a key switch
https://www.ebay.com/itm/60V-48V-36...Grip-Handlebar-LED-Digital-Meter/163327549937

Having a LED meter makes this one compatible with many different voltages (24V, 36V, 48V, 60V & up to 72VDC) according to the ad

It has (5) wires

Throttle
-tells the speed controller how fast you want it, to make the motor to go (rotate)
wires
red = positive (+) 5V
black = GND (-)
green = (speed) signal

Key switch
- turns the speed controller On or Off.
wires
yellow= positive (+) power lock
blue= RTN (signal) power lock

* On this one it also seems like the meter gets its positive (+) "voltage signal" from the yellow "Key switch/power lock" wire & its negative (-), to complete the circuit, from the black wire (GND) of the throttle.

NOTE: There aren't/I haven't seen any "actual" ratings listed for the switches used in/on these throttles, but my research seems to show that most of the switches used in many of these throttles are rated for ELV use. (I remember seeing up to 60VDC ~1A listed in ads, many times)

* Maybe the switch in this one is "good/adequate" to use on systems of up to 72V
(like the meter is capable of)...who knows?

 

[Quinc]

Have you had any luck seeing what rpm the motor is spinning when you are riding?

 

[sikbrik]

Have you had any luck seeing what rpm the motor is spinning when you are riding?

I don't think FA has this particular motor running yet, as it's going in his current build, but is running the previous 48v version of it, so these are all bench tests.

 

[Functional Artist]

I don't think FA has this particular motor running yet, as it's going in his current build, but is running the previous 48v version of it, so these are all bench tests.

Nope not runnin' 'er yet
...Winter has a grip on us in here Toledo, at the moment

RPM tests (loaded & unloaded) are on this summers agenda

 

[Functional Artist]

Key switch

The last thing in the box of throttles & switches from Alfa Wheels was a nice little key switch.

It's just a simple NO (normally open) SPST (single pole single throw) "on/off" switch in a ~1" diameter plastic housing.

It has with (2) ~6" of pieces of ~18g. wire attached (1) red & (1) black.
Each wire has a ~1/8" (copper or brass) terminal crimped on
…& then, both terminals are mounted in a standard plastic (2) pin connector.

It has "OFF ON" spelled out above the key slot
…& IGNITION spelled out down below plus a star symbol.

But, it doesn't have any markings on the switch housing, wires or connector.
No switch ratings, No connector ratings, No wire gauges, No nothing.


So, while doin' research, I found the many of the same "looking" switches
...but, as Sid says "you can't just go by looks"

For research purposes, this one on Alibaba looks the same:
Its branded "Kun ray" & has Wuxing listed as "type".
It has a 12V - 72V voltage rating, the "application" is listed as universal & it has a IP54 waterproof lever rating.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...pm=a2700.7724857.normalList.32.4d883e8f5clvmd

...or this one on Amazon, looks the same too:
It's branded Wingsmoto & is listed as a 2 Wire Electrical Scooter Ignition Key Switch Lock 2 Position

This one doesn't have a voltage rating in the description
...but, in the questions & comments someone asked "how many amps is it rated for?"
The seller replied: "Maximum current is around 3 amps for the key switch. Please add a relay to control big current devices."

https://www.amazon.com/Wingsmoto-Ig...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589102323634&psc=1

I've found many many more with similar details.
...but, if it's not "actually" labeled, who knows for sure?

Again, we don't know for sure, but from this info, it looks like most of these ignition switches are/should be kinda "universal" & should be "OK" to use in the ELV range (up to 75VDC)
...but, only if the circuit carries very low amperage (up to ~3A)

*Would this be safe to assume?
**Why would manufacturers produce switches without any ratings or labels?
*** Does this "omission" tell us anything?

 

[sikbrik]

Thoughts on a littelfuse 32v 60a fuse on this setup? The mega70 fuses for 70v are impossible to find. 32v rated fuses are everywhere...is there math to make sure my amperage is sufficient or is 60a the same to a fuse, 32 or 66v?

 

[Functional Artist]

Thoughts on a littelfuse 32v 60a fuse on this setup? The mega70 fuses for 70v are impossible to find. 32v rated fuses are everywhere...is there math to make sure my amperage is sufficient or is 60a the same to a fuse, 32 or 66v?

Still researchin' on using stuff "out of spec"

For now I would stick with "proper" rated components.
(especially important for use on the battery pack to protect the "main/big" power line)

Here is a "fast blow" bolt down type fuse (~$7.00)
...it's rated 80VDC & 250A

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...oct%2buaxTTGHcL2Hafz8nhP%2bv%2b5jpXNifZ3GGQ==

Take a look around, they have many different ones if you want a specific amp rating.
(most ~$7.00 ea.)

 

[Quinc]

I have had good luck with these. I run a 200a on my kids little 36v 500w atv and it trips when needed.(usually when he is stuck)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Circuit-Br...XjT2g:sc:USPSFirstClass!95926!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0

 

[sikbrik]

Found some bussman "type H" industrial fuses rated for 125vdc in both current-limiting (slow blow for motor loads) and one-time quick fuses for not too much money. ($10 fuse holder, $5 fuse). Also some 69v Marine stuff designed for battery terminals for not much more ($20ish.). Those aren't slow-blow, though.

Functional... your pinout description is specifying a fuse on many of the connections to the controller. I was originally planning on only a main fuse on the motor load between the battery. Thoughts on this?

 

[sikbrik]

i think I might try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7NTR2Y

 

[Functional Artist]

Functional... your pinout description is specifying a fuse on many of the connections to the controller. I was originally planning on only a main fuse on the motor load between the battery. Thoughts on this?

pinout description?

"This speed controller has (12) sets of wires that we can probably break down into (5) categories.
(as per their voltage &/or amperage requirements)

1.) Battery/Power - 60VDC 50A - 100A yes (this circuit MUST be protected with a HD fuse)
2.) Motor/Traction - 60VDC 50A - 100A no (a fuse is not needed)
3.) Charging - 60VDC 5A - 10A yes (use a fuse)
4.) Lighting - 60VDC 5A - 10A yes (use a fuse)
5.) Controls - (see below)
a.) lock, brake lever & battery indicator 60VDC no (fuse needed)
b.) throttle, reverse & 3-speed 5VDC no (fuse needed)
c.) motor (hall) 5VDC no (fuse needed)"

Yup, you should have/use a main fuse (or circuit breaker) to protect the total system. (#1.)

IMO A small (appropriate sized) fuse should be used to protect any "power" circuits that carry a load
...like on the charge port circuit (#3)
...& also on any light circuits (#4)

 

[Quinc]

i think I might try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7NTR2Y

In my experience these are underrated. I would go with at least a 100a.

 

[sikbrik]

The 1 thin red wire for "battery meter"...any tips on how that's wires and to what?

I don't really plan on using it in the long term but I stupidly wired the shunt on the positive side of the load rather than the negative and it won't function until I reverse that. It might be nice to have a backup voltage tap if this wire can work but I don't see how it can function as just a single wire.

---------- Post added at 09:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:18 PM ----------

Oh, the 50A breaker is working well.