AMMFAB
New member
some more recent ones.....
Best welds thread :D
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mwillika
New member
#weldporn
KartFab
Active member
This looks a little better than my last one.
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AMMFAB
New member
Thank u sir...... As for #weldporn...... they only put pics of certain things I've noticed....... pipe welders welding at work, weave welds, people who are showing off weldporn products or welds done bty preferred followees of #Welporn. Since I don't do or am not any of those my work doesn't get showcased on there..... again thank u and end rant.
Mike
AMMFAB
New member
Not bad..... I don't know ure skill level but my advice....... nothing makes for a good weld like perfect fit up. Get it as tight as u can and the wending should be cake. .... and a little less heat next time.
Mike
KartFab
Active member
I'm a newbie wannabe welder. I need all the help I can get. I think I should have been welding at 110-120 but I was doing 150 amps to make sure I got proper penetration as it is part of a roll cage. None of this thin exhaust stuff.
Does lots of heat have any sort of negative effects like not being as strong/brittle? I've only welded when someone's pre-set the settings for me.. so I really don't know.
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KartFab
Active member
it looks good.
Here is a 3/8th weld using 7018. I got 49/50 on it. My instructor says he doesn't give 50s, so I have taken that as a personal challenge, and I am going to get one out of him by the time I graduate.
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builder bob
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the bottom one is my best. are the welds gray because there's not enough shielding gas?
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KartFab
Active member
Are you using flux core wire? If not, you want your gas flow to be about (13-17 CFH?) keeping the mig gun close to the workpiece as you weld. The way the bead is build up suggests your amperage is too low, and when i mean low, I mean WAY too low. The build up should be a small hump rather than globs.
This vid will help you much more than I could help/explain. Polarity, wire speed, flow rate, amperage etc...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3Qb9I03FCk
This vid will help you much more than I could help/explain. Polarity, wire speed, flow rate, amperage etc...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3Qb9I03FCk
builder bob
New member
My regulator maxes out at 12 CFH and sometimes won't go above 10. i've been using strait CO2. I'll try turning up the amperage when i fix my welder, it keeps jamming. the reason why i've been keeping the amperage low is because of both the gauge thing that's on my welder and because if i turn it up too high i trip the breaker.
KartFab
Active member
Jamming? I had wire feeding issues (besides the easy fix to increase the tension/pressure on the wire), the USUAL problem is the liner. The liner is kind of like a bicycle cable housing, it is what lets the wire travel through the hose. If it has a kink in it (eg you wrapped the hose too tightly, stepped on it, ran the hose over with something) you may not even notice it just looking at the hose. Your wire speed will be irratic or not feed at all sometimes, no matter how much tension you crank that dial to. The liner costs between $15-$30 and i would suggest just buying a new one. It is super simple to replace (consult your users manual). All you really need is a wrench or two, and maybe a dremel tool or abrasive disc to cut the liner to length.
Hmm, is your tank low on pressure? You should have either a flow meter, or a pressure regulator. (most people have a pressure regulator). There should be two dials on the regulator, one for the pressure inside the tank (0-2200 psi is the usual range) and one for the flow. My welds start getting porosity whenever the tank for my welder dips below 500 psi, and I have to turn up the flow on the regulator.
When you pull the trigger on the MIG gun, the flow should steady out to a certain figure, that is the actual figure that should fall between 13-17 CFH.
Also, please get a 75/25 mix wherever you get your gas. 75% CO2, 25% Argon. The welds will look much cleaner, and that is the stuff that pretty much everyone with a MIG welder uses for steel. 100% CO2 is good for refilling paintball tanks, and carbonating your soda, not so much for welding (that i know of).
Trip the breaker? What kind of welder is it? It could be one of two things:
1) your duty cycle is really low at higher amperages, not much you can do about that other than weld/rest for the recommended times 20% duty cycle at X amerage means weld 2 minutes, then leave your welder on for 8 minutes while not welding. The welder will automatically trip the breaker when the duty cycle is reached (e.g. its overheating). If you have air conditioning wherever you are welding, that may help. I have noticed I can weld a lot longer in the evenings or in Air Conditioning. When its 100 degrees, sometimes i can only weld for 30 seconds before I trip the breaker.
2) You have a lower amperage breaker and/or multiple appliances/items running on the same breaker you are running your welder on. See if you can find a different breaker with a plug, or turn off the appliances, or put in a breaker that will handle the higher amperages (consult an electrician). Lots of homes have 15 amp breakers, and you can get away with a 20 amp most of the time (again if your not an electrician, have one come out and do this). Hope this helps
Hmm, is your tank low on pressure? You should have either a flow meter, or a pressure regulator. (most people have a pressure regulator). There should be two dials on the regulator, one for the pressure inside the tank (0-2200 psi is the usual range) and one for the flow. My welds start getting porosity whenever the tank for my welder dips below 500 psi, and I have to turn up the flow on the regulator.
When you pull the trigger on the MIG gun, the flow should steady out to a certain figure, that is the actual figure that should fall between 13-17 CFH.
Also, please get a 75/25 mix wherever you get your gas. 75% CO2, 25% Argon. The welds will look much cleaner, and that is the stuff that pretty much everyone with a MIG welder uses for steel. 100% CO2 is good for refilling paintball tanks, and carbonating your soda, not so much for welding (that i know of).
Trip the breaker? What kind of welder is it? It could be one of two things:
1) your duty cycle is really low at higher amperages, not much you can do about that other than weld/rest for the recommended times 20% duty cycle at X amerage means weld 2 minutes, then leave your welder on for 8 minutes while not welding. The welder will automatically trip the breaker when the duty cycle is reached (e.g. its overheating). If you have air conditioning wherever you are welding, that may help. I have noticed I can weld a lot longer in the evenings or in Air Conditioning. When its 100 degrees, sometimes i can only weld for 30 seconds before I trip the breaker.
2) You have a lower amperage breaker and/or multiple appliances/items running on the same breaker you are running your welder on. See if you can find a different breaker with a plug, or turn off the appliances, or put in a breaker that will handle the higher amperages (consult an electrician). Lots of homes have 15 amp breakers, and you can get away with a 20 amp most of the time (again if your not an electrician, have one come out and do this). Hope this helps
machinist@large
Active member
gran_pann is pretty much on target: Welding Tricks an Tips is one of the best site's I've found for "why am I having this 
".
The only quibbles I might raise are pretty much spelled out in the video; #1 is the straight CO2 for your shielding gas. Various countries around the world do use it, but it's strictly for cost; here in the US, I can get 75/25 at my local Farm/Home & Garden center.
I made a point to get it there; my little 115V Lincoln mig box was bought to bail out a neighbor after a really bad RUD (Rapid Unplanned Disassembly) of his Haybine. I would have liked to buy a Miller; all my welding suppliers had the Lincoln 135 on sale for over $150.00 less. All industrial suppliers that I have are closed on the weekends: guess when I had the time to help my neighbor?
For welding gasses, look as close to home as you can; if you have to go to "the ends of the Earth", then you want to look as close to home as possible......
". The only quibbles I might raise are pretty much spelled out in the video; #1 is the straight CO2 for your shielding gas. Various countries around the world do use it, but it's strictly for cost; here in the US, I can get 75/25 at my local Farm/Home & Garden center.
I made a point to get it there; my little 115V Lincoln mig box was bought to bail out a neighbor after a really bad RUD (Rapid Unplanned Disassembly) of his Haybine. I would have liked to buy a Miller; all my welding suppliers had the Lincoln 135 on sale for over $150.00 less. All industrial suppliers that I have are closed on the weekends: guess when I had the time to help my neighbor?
For welding gasses, look as close to home as you can; if you have to go to "the ends of the Earth", then you want to look as close to home as possible......
builder bob
New member
LOL i just realized that i did those welds with no sheilding gas because i had run out and wanted to practice. My other welds are a little cleaner.
DaiSan76, I'm preaty shore that it's just steel with a plastic coating on it because it came with a motorized bike engine kit. I doubt that there'd be any stainless parts in the kit. the wire does jam exactly how you said.
gran_pann, the guy i bought my welder from said he replaced the liner (probly because it was jamming) with something that the store he went to would work. i know that it was never used after he replace it because it was so long that it was stuck in the drive weel.
The tank is full but the regulator physically can't go higher than 12 CFH because that's how far the gauge goes and the nob won't go any farther. It is a cheap regulator that i guess came with the welder and doesn't have two gages.
The flow usaly steadies out at 10CFH but sometimes it'll stay at 12.
I've been using a paintball canister for shielding gas because the the regulator i have fits on one and i saw on amazon that there harbor freight made a regulator for putting on paintball canisters. I'll try and get my shop teacher at school to let me use their tank of shielding gas now that their MIG welder is broken.
This is my welder: http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=6028
It tripps the breaker because it draws 30 amps max and the outlets in my shop are all 20 amp exept for the 220v outlets. It wouldn't be hard to add a new outlet but i haven't wanted to spend the money.
DaiSan76, I'm preaty shore that it's just steel with a plastic coating on it because it came with a motorized bike engine kit. I doubt that there'd be any stainless parts in the kit. the wire does jam exactly how you said.
gran_pann, the guy i bought my welder from said he replaced the liner (probly because it was jamming) with something that the store he went to would work. i know that it was never used after he replace it because it was so long that it was stuck in the drive weel.
The tank is full but the regulator physically can't go higher than 12 CFH because that's how far the gauge goes and the nob won't go any farther. It is a cheap regulator that i guess came with the welder and doesn't have two gages.
The flow usaly steadies out at 10CFH but sometimes it'll stay at 12.
I've been using a paintball canister for shielding gas because the the regulator i have fits on one and i saw on amazon that there harbor freight made a regulator for putting on paintball canisters. I'll try and get my shop teacher at school to let me use their tank of shielding gas now that their MIG welder is broken.
This is my welder: http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=6028
It tripps the breaker because it draws 30 amps max and the outlets in my shop are all 20 amp exept for the 220v outlets. It wouldn't be hard to add a new outlet but i haven't wanted to spend the money.
builder bob
New member
gran_pann is pretty much on target: Welding Tricks an Tips is one of the best site's I've found for "why am I having this
The only quibbles I might raise are pretty much spelled out in the video; #1 is the straight CO2 for your shielding gas. Various countries around the world do use it, but it's strictly for cost; here in the US, I can get 75/25 at my local Farm/Home & Garden center.
I made a point to get it there; my little 115V Lincoln mig box was bought to bail out a neighbor after a really bad RUD (Rapid Unplanned Disassembly) of his Haybine. I would have liked to buy a Miller; all my welding suppliers had the Lincoln 135 on sale for over $150.00 less. All industrial suppliers that I have are closed on the weekends: guess when I had the time to help my neighbor?
For welding gasses, look as close to home as you can; if you have to go to "the ends of the Earth", then you want to look as close to home as possible......
I used CO2 because i don't know where i can get anything else and it's cheap. I'll try and get some other sheilding gas
CO2 is fine, just understand that your welds will not look as nice. They will have more spatter, and won't be as smooth.
builder bob
New member
The welds will still be strong though right?
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