Another single seater streaker

[Thepartsguy]

Small update for today. spray bombed it black. I’ll need another can to finish the seat and fog the underside. Took the front tires off the home made kart and stuck them on now I can start adjusting the steering. The paint of course isn’t nice it wasn’t on the first kart either. The first kart is now covered in chain oil and rock chipped it doesn’t matter they get run hard. It painted up just as well as the other one. Now for a quick break and on to the steering. once that is done I’m gonna put the axle in it. Maybe tonight probably not.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Super weird I usually don’t gain any motivation till around 3pm and don’t post any updates till around or after 6pm.. Hit me like a rock. Pull the first k181 off the original bird kart and put it on my streaker. Red k181 with a 15amp alternator and electric start. Then pop the blue kohler onto this kart. the bird kart is pretty trick but the steering and short chassis make for a hard ride. So I don’t mind snagging the engine for the better kart. Also got the seat bolted onto the pan. hmmm what’s next? Go get the original k181? Work on the axle? It’s early yet.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Yupp next is the axle. There is nothing else left I don’t think? once the axle is in I line the engine and torque converter up to the axle sprocket and make the engine permanent. last is always the brakes.

 

[Denny]

You need to get that front axle straightened out soon.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Easy enough to completely strip the axle. run over it with a wire brush so everything slides nice and easy. a 60t sprocket and a brake hub/band. onrc the axle is hung in loosely with the brake band and sprocket roughly were I need it I can make sure everything is gonna line up and lock it down. I never did get around to getting the kohler off the bird kart. That’s last along with the brakes I guess.

 

[Thepartsguy]

You need to get that front axle straightened out soon.

the front axle won’t get straightened until I can ride it. As it’s about a 6 mile trip to the shop all backroads. and I’m not loading it in the truck. It’s all painted and gonna get torched to straighten that out. it is what it is.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I’ll call that a roller even though it’s missing a tire. Axle is in and the sprocket/brake hub are where I need it. today i have to cut the kohler mount off the bird kart and also get the kohler engine from the bird kart. bolt The 1” Torque converter to the kohler and bolt the kohler to it’s engine mount. drill four new holes and boom. engine installed.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Went and cut the kohler 8hp mount off the bird kart. now to get the torque converter off the 8hp Tecumseh and get it bolted to the kohler engine.

 

[madprofessor]

Post #18: I won't tell you your welds are bad until you post from the hospital how they broke.
Post #27: Pretty work, it's good to see matching slicks all the way around.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Post #18: I won't tell you your welds are bad until you post from the hospital how they broke.
Post #27: Pretty work, it's good to see matching slicks all the way around.

matching slicks no worries it’s getting two new tires and the rims/hubs for 5” tires on the back with two new tubes. 5” tires are $22 for two with the tubes on sale. so I‘m gonna pick up 3 sets soon.

 

[Thepartsguy]

got the torque converter mounted to the k181 needed to hog out the four mounting holes. other then that simple install. Should be pretty cool once it’s on the kart. Then I grab the red k181s off the bird kart put a torque converter on it. And it’s a direct bolt on back on my kart.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I had a problem and I fixed it. k181 engines have a long crank. I needed a spacer behind the driver pulley. I tried to use 1” washers but they hit the jackshaft plate. And once you cranked down the crank bolt it locked up the engine. I used a welded together 1” split locking collar as a spacer. worked amazing. problem Solved.

 

[madprofessor]

Washers are a great way to make spacers incrementally, but a single measured ready-made spacer simplifies everything. You don't have to guess and order what won't work, I haven't because Home Depot sells pipe. 1" pipe slides right onto 1" shafts, same with 3/4" pipe. Even the seam inside of the pipes isn't a problem. Measure once, let your kids cut 5 times, then cut exactly the spacer you need for about $1.00

 

[Thepartsguy]

Washers are a great way to make spacers incrementally, but a single measured ready-made spacer simplifies everything. You don't have to guess and order what won't work, I haven't because Home Depot sells pipe. 1" pipe slides right onto 1" shafts, same with 3/4" pipe. Even the seam inside of the pipes isn't a problem. Measure once, let your kids cut 5 times, then cut exactly the spacer you need for about $1.00

It wasn’t a guess at all. The welded together locking collar was the exact spacer needed. no cutting at all. Just a few tacs and I pushed it on the crank against the taper. then bolted up the torque converter. it was around 11pm there were no stores open.

 

[FlyFrog]

Hasn’t stopped me from staying out and working. I got the brake Pedal linkage flipped also the hardware and spring to mount it and make it work. with the heavy duty springs it springs the pedals back so nice. Now tell me my welds are bad and we will move on.
View attachment 135274View attachment 135275View attachment 135276

dont have to be a good welder just a good grinder

 

[Thepartsguy]

Today was relaxing. I didn’t do much other then get both front wheels straight although the one side will still get bent back. And cleaned up the 30 series followed a picture I found online for the oil/grease points and ran some fine wire wool to clear any belt residue from the cheapo belt. it has a genuine comet belt so no trouble there. very heavy plate mount bolts and an extra beefy crank bolt. Cleaned/oiled with a genuine belt and aligned very well should be hassle free for a long time. I also bolted the engine to the wheel horse engine mount.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I‘m loosing steam and I bet I could sleep for two days. Tomorrow’s task is getting the spindle bolts tight as there only hand threaded on. then bolt the seat down permanently. and get the chain length correct on the torque converter and axle sprocket. pull the engine backwards to tension the chain drill four holes and tighten four bolts. I have ordered four tires/tubes and two chrome 5” steel wheels for the 1” live axle. That’s chrome rims and new tire’s/tubes all the way around both red streakers.

 

[Kryanl2986]

Gotta keep up the motivation. I have 90% of the parts to make it run and drive. It’s cold outside isn’t and excuse. I want this hop on and ready to ride as fast as I possibly can.. Just so I don’t have to deal with it. Slam it out right the first time and I can enjoy it without to much hassle or time spent. never been easier now that I have a completed kart to build the base. front bumper is on. Now i need to make an exact copy of the brake pivot system from my other single seater streaker thread.View attachment 135269

My name is Ryan first time on a forum just got into rebuilding gokarts and found this gem I did find out it was a streaker just don't know what model. I noticed someone had cut off one of the bearing holders was wondering if you could buy them anywhere or does it have to be fabricated? They cut it off because the bearing had seized to the axle so they just cut the bracket off instead of taking axle off I can send a picture of it its the one that goes right under the motor mount they also cut off one of the brake caliper bracket and was missing the rotor off that side any advise or pointing me in the right direction would be awesome thanks so much

 

[Thepartsguy]

My name is Ryan first time on a forum just got into rebuilding gokarts and found this gem I did find out it was a streaker just don't know what model. I noticed someone had cut off one of the bearing holders was wondering if you could buy them anywhere or does it have to be fabricated? They cut it off because the bearing had seized to the axle so they just cut the bracket off instead of taking axle off I can send a picture of it its the one that goes right under the motor mount they also cut off one of the brake caliper bracket and was missing the rotor off that side any advise or pointing me in the right direction would be awesome thanks so much

I honestly doubt your going to find a live axle bearing hanger welded to a streaker engine mount unless you find a kart to cut the mount off of. If that was my kart I wouldn’t worry about it but I can’t say that for you because I don’t know if that’s safe. Most live axle gokarts have two bearing hangers that is it one on each side. That third hanger is basically a bonus. if I did own that one I would weld the engine plate back on and brace the front to back bar and put in a live axle. If you go live axle the brakes are tricky As you would need a pivot system like I build for the band. That is a model sta-5 through an sta-9. as the madprofessor said the mack Truck of gokarts. in My opinion the best base there is from factory to start with. No other karts built with such user serviceability/modification in mind.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I lost steam on updating the thread. Anyway the kart runs and rides exactly like mine. Welded up a cam for a junk 5hp and been having a bunch of fun on the backroads. The cam sounds mean at wot I wanna weld up the lifter bore and make an even bigger one. it’s junk and just for fun. I’m still using the torque converter 8hp when it lets go.